OSSA

I have a 73 MAR, but it appears many OSSA models are similar regarding the shifter shaft and the O rings that seal the shaft. My MAR has a splined stub on both sides of the engine, and could be run as left or right side shift. The O ring in the clutch cover is easily replaced by removing the clutch cover. With the clutch cover removed, can the shifter shaft be removed to replace the right side O ring or must the cases be split to replace the O ring. When I had the clutch cover removed previously, I noticed there was quite a bit of movement where possibly the shaft could be removed, but I did not attempt it.

Well, I now have four OSSAs in the garage. (One is a restoration project). we did some trading and I now have the 2014 Factory 300 that has been talked about a bit. I didn't have much trouble starting it, but I'm going to do my 'super easy start' mod anyway. I'll check the mixture and all that stuff too. Certainly more power than my Explorer, but it is heavier also. I'm not exactly sure how I'll set it up- some sort of 'long range' seat/tank likely the Betas have I think. I'd like to try one of those and see if they fit. Mark

I am just installing the updated shifter drum and new shift assembly into my 2012 - this will allow for easy finding of neutral and a little bit more strength in shifting. My question is about drilling an oil transfer hole. In the attached picture I mark two areas that are at the lowest portion of the tranny plate. Should I drill at A or B? What size hole? Oh, and should I use any thread locker on the tranny bolts? I used blue locktite last time and I nearly stripped a couple of them getting them out this time. (Torx T10 - sheesh - give me a break?!?!?) thanks

Not my OSSA MAr, but my friends. The bike he bought a while back, advertised as restored needing nothing has been one hack after another. To late to complain to the guy, and the seller was not honest in how he described and displayed the motorcycle. It was a long distance sale, so between emails, phone calls and videos, the bike was bought and shipped. Suffice to say the seller, that did the work should not handle tools and has no real regard for quality. Along with many issues, the most recent occurred last week. While getting the jetting dialed in, the engine lost power and began rattling. My first comment when told about this on the phone was he seized i…

Well, with OSSA in difficulty also Kokusan Denki (the japanese maker of OSSA's fuel injection system) name is gone, it's now bought by german Mahle corporation I see on their web page: Effective January 1, 2016, the company name of Kokusan Denki Co., Ltd. has changed into “MAHLE Electric Drives Japan Corporation” Good thing is Mahle is very good quality stuff, I've bought filters etc consumables from Mahle for my BMWs (they're OEM producer for BMW too) and really top notch quality, so I don't see it being a problem. But pity they had to change their nice sounding Jap name into some rough german "Ramstein-ish" sounding name. Anyways, just sayin', those Kokusan…

Recently, there was a need to remove the cylinder from one of my friends 72 MAR 250s. With the head removed, we expected the cylinder to slide easily off the studs. P, time and water had corroded the studs and cylinder along the cylinders entire height. We soaked the 4 studs for a couple weeks hoping to have the cylinder release. When the cylinder refused to release and be removed, next I attempted to unwind the long studs. While i could see several of the studs twiting as I tried to remove them, each would untwist back to where they originally were positioned. Seeing this I feared the studs would break causing greater problems. Heat was even applied…

HI, Can anyone help. I have a 2013 Ossa TR280i and i have notice on the LHS of the bike there are 2 wires not connected and without a connector. Upon closer inspection they appear to be Green and Black and i think they should be connected to the Sensor Gasolina. Can anyone shed some light on the function / location of this. The bike runs fine !

Anyone have good solutions for a spark arrestor on a Termi? The exhaust doesn't stick out- but the inner (toward center of bike) part is flush. So the type I have won't fit. I suppose I can fabricate a pipe that will go inside the Termi exit and inside the arrestor. (The arrestor I use fits right on the standard exhaust) But I' like to hear if anyone has a better solution. Mark

This is why we check things over now and then.Off to the welder guy.Check yours before the mount is destroyed.

Does anyone know the SKF size or part number for the rear wheel sprocket side bushing on the TR280i. I'm not interesed in maching the hub to accept a bearing.The bushing is fine.

Any idea on how to pull the headlight out. Looks like 2 clips on each side and it'll slide out, but am concerned with snapping the clips and obviously never finding a replacement. Any hints, tips or tricks? When changing my AAA battery behind the headlight in that black box, I inadvertently pulled a little too hard, and the tiny little frail wires that connect the headlight pulled loose. Need to get in there with a soldering iron.

was out today for a run,great fun. After a while it started to "burp"at the radiator,fan did not work. Used the software to engage fan but no,relay said"click" but no fan. Some check on cables,swapped out the relay and yeess,fan working again. Did som on/off via software and then out again to drive it up to temprature,runs like champ! Happy hollidays Christian

Can anyone give me a list of bearings and seals needed to rebuild the OSSA mar engine ??

Hi all, first time poster here... I have just bought a couple of Ossa's to have a go at duffers trials of some sort. I need to remove the RHS crank case half to get a little bit of welding done (very small and barely necessary, but I am a bit OCD with such things...) Anyway, I have a question. The manual seems to show that it is entirely possible to remove the RHS crankcase half whilst leaving/not disturbing the crank and gearbox shafts clutch and what have you in the LHS crankcase half, is this the case? Of course, as this engine is a complete unknown quantity and I have not bought it running I could find out that having split it i need to replace a shed …

Hi all I recently restored a TR77 that I got as a box of bits many years ago. It is now up and running (and road registered too!). When I first rode it, the clutch was SO heavy, and gear changing was very difficult without crashing and clonking them. I thought this was possibly just a clutch problem as it was so heavy. I took the clutch cover off and removed a plate - the outer metal clutch plate - to allow some adjustment, as the springs were already as far out as I could get them. This meant that the outer pressure plate ran on a friction plate (I ensured that it was flat and smooth first), and when I reassembled it all (again with the springs as far out as I…

Following the last trail I did, I now unfortunately have a crack between the sump plug hole and the case edge. I assume the only way to fix this will be to strip the engine and get it welded ?! With this in mind what parts at a bare minimum will I require ( seals, gaskets, bearing etc...) I don't know anything about the history of the engine, the power seems ok ( though I have never rode another MAR to compare it to), but whilst it's apart what else would you suggest I consider doing to it ? On the same trial that I cracked it, it started slipping out of first gear and going to neutral. I have re-ground a better point on to the detent pin which has …

I have a 2014 tri 300 and the braktec front calliper has started to seep oil between the two halfs ,I take it the rubber seal has probably split. Problem is when I've looked online for the repair kit but they only show for the gas gas racing models and never ossa is it still the same thing? And there tends to be two types one for around £20 and one newer version for about £40 anyone know which would be the one I need?

Hi think i found a clear protector for my carbon termignoni the sides were wearing and turning grey. I bought this stuff about fifteen years ago and still had it laying around so i tryed a small spot first a light scuff with 300 grit. Then brushed it on let it dry over night wow you couldn't tell it was worn. The heat dosnt bother it leaves a hard finish. If and when it wears add another coat. ?

Can any body tell me if the 76 OSSA MAR was available with a black frame? I am starting the restoration on one and it is painted black. All the pictures I have seen seem to show a silver frame. Either way can you advise the paint type/ colour? I'm also after speedo and lights.

Almost my only compliant about my Explorer is the rear linkage. It is probably just fine for most trials- but I ride it a lot and in a lot of mud and water. Those bushings are ok if you take the thing apart a lot- but I'd rather have something a little more robust and with zerk fittings. Anyone looked at coming up with something else? Or no issue for anyone else? Bearings and zerks would be nice. Even just zerks would be ok, since I could hit it every ride. Mark