kttwofifty

A great trial bent Fenders. Section 8 and the traverse to 9 were really juicy ,challenging and fun. The atmosphere here is always fun too. My wife is not happy that part of Brent Creek has been transmitted to my driveway though. Guess I have to get out the rake and hose it down some more. Muscles recovering nicely and getting ready for Whitmore Lake next Wknd.Thanks all you scorers for giving up your wknd fun for the rest of us.

OK...back to the OP. One thing you can do is to move your bottom shock mount fwd 1.5 in. then run the 13.5 in shocks and the bike will turn much better. The forks stops can be ground off a lot to make them turn farther. I too use TY fork springs in combination with 1 of the KT springs to get the length correct. the bike has plenty of torque and does not need a flywheel wgt. especially if you use the B&J RACING KX rod/CR piston with a cyl spacer. All kinds of weight can be taken off the bike that is useless. The muffler is ridiculously heavy. I built my own from the front part of the stocker hooked to the rear of a 1992 RM250 silencer and it came out 1/2 as heavy! And is repackable. You need to build or get a skidplate on the thing or suffer the busted case blues if you ride in sharp rocks. the stock mesh stuff is too narrow and a joke. A guy in TN built me one. UNI makes a good air filter for them. My bars are off from a SherpaT 199 (I'm not too tall though so you might like taller bars or risers). Finally I run a Clarke 1.5 gal Honda Elsinore plastic tank #11336 that takes care of the rusty tank-can't find a petcock blues. I say you set these bikes up right and they are a match for a Spanish bike any day. Oh yea.....widen your own footpegs with some steel strapping, toward the back so they are about 1 3/4 in. wide.....Don't buy those expensive ones. Plastic fenders, Motion-Pro cables, dogleg levers and you have one that finally works .

Michael Moore.... It is slightly shorter and about the same width. You do have to relocate the HDI gold box( I put mine back under the left side panel,no autolube, at the rear using stock wires). A nice added bonus is that you can grind down the stops for the forks too and this tank allows it to turn farther. Make sure you keep it off the header pipe by using plenty of foam under it. I also put about 6 in. of heat-proof alum tape on the bottom for good measure. Cures the rust and crash blues and your" can't find a petcock" problems are also cured. The stock tanks are notorious for rusting out really fast especially along the front lower seams.

I use a plastic Clarke MFG. tank on my KT that is for a 125 Honda Elsinore and comes in 12 colors. Centermount and petcock(Pingel) are all included as is frame foam. No more leaks or crash worries and it will turn tighter as a bonus. The parts # is 1336 (or 11336). Rust hassles also gone.

I have the KX rod CR piston and spacer in my KT Jamieson. The stroke is 3mm longer. B&J Racing in TN did the work and Ginder also makes a special carb needle that really makes them pull. Uni-Filter makes a good foam air filter for them too. Make sure to build a skidplate for it for England...Those cases are vulnerable to rocks and the stock mesh is a joke . I see you put longer shocks on it too. Watch your swingarm where the chain crosses over the top of it as it may rub when you decellerate. I used a piece of a truck mudflap wrapped around the end of the swingarm. With the stroker set-up you will outpull all but the strongest TYs(other strokers). If you want to save your stock gas tank I run a lime green, 125 Honda Elsinore tank that is plastic and fits well from Clarke Mfg. I think the # is 1336. No more rust problems or crash worries mate.

If you guys have that much terrain you could really speed things up by changing over to a Scottish pattern scoring system. In the meantime you save yourself the effort of having to cajole, convince ,threaten or otherwise obtain 20 observers for your 10 sections. You save lots of split markers and there is little of the WAITING IN LINE characteristic of many observed trials. You do use more ribbon. Your trial would get done sooner and more efficiently. This takes some explanation initially for the promoter but anyone who has ever played GOLF will recognize the scoring system immediately.

Before you run too many events you might want to consider building a skid plate for that Kwacker. They have lousy stock ones on them and the bulging cases are in need of rock protection. BTW a nitrogen shock is usually mounted USD like that. Just make sure your sprocket/ shock spring have clearance. Also, if you run longer shocks, make sure your swing arm is not contacting the chain. If it is make a guard out of an old truck mudfap so it rubs on that. Enjoy..... You in the UK?

Don't forget that an easy way to get more trail is also to install a longer set of rear shocks.

The Betor nitrogen shock in 13.5 in size is what I use. $255/pr US from B&J Racing. Comes with a 70/100 spring that works for a large variety of riders. Those Falcons, Hagons and WPs are rebuildable.....but are twice as expensive, especially WPs. I run a 75 KT250.

Squid...since no one answered your pre-mix post . I run 50:1 or 2.5 ozs/ 1 US gallon of premium pump gas. Some guys like car racing gas but you don't really need it. Use a good concentrated pre-mix oil....Motul, Silkolene, Bel-ray,Maxima.

+1 for B&J carb from Ginder(dabbinbob). He won't have to guess...He actually knows.

Check out Trials Inc as they have a number of events in the midwest. You might even find a riding buddy from So. Il. there. Also Little Egypt Off- Road, LEOR is in Marion and they have events pretty regularly. I would personally look at a 250 Beta. They have good resale, are very tough though a little heavy and a good novice bike to learn the basics on. MOTA and TI have an early joint trials in Northern Indiana in April. Watch schedules and US Trials and Previews for info. Welcome.

There is always Bike Bandit.com . They will surprise you .

I run Sammy Miller Sherpa T bars on mine with the pegs lowered and widened to the rear. I'm 5-9. You might need to do your pegs first...then decide what bars you like. they are closely related.

Dgraf.... I assume that you want the pegs wider. The cheapest way is to just purchase a set of IMS weld -on wideners and put them on your old pegs. Watch that right one! I fold mine when I start the bike(spring is off) so as not to eat your right ankle.