bob

Hi, I have just started having problems with my bike, it is an 03 rev3 200cc. the bike used to go fine, but I went out on it this morning and every time I got above about 1/4 of a turn on the throttle it started spluttering and pinking and all sorts. The bike runs fine otherwise below this speed with plenty of power. The spark plug has a white residue on the area where the spark jumps across. I have tried a number of spark plugs but not a new one. I have also tried resetting the float level slightly higher incase it was fuel starvation, but I have not started messing about with mixtures or ignition timing yet. I suspect it may be that ignition module problem which everyone fears. What would you reccomend doing to fix it and how can I do this. I have done a search and there are many suggestions, but no accurate instructions of what to do. I have never got much further than the clutch and carb when taking bits off my engine, so any help would be helpful eg torque settings, tips, tools. Thanks, Bob

Is it ok to be putting WD40 on your fork seals, or is it procare that you can't put on your forks, or have I just picked up a malicious rumour?

I imagine that the only time you would want to ride one of these bikes on the road is during a trial though. Has anybody actually seen anybody riding a trial with road work with this stuff fitted? Most bikes I have seen at trial are illegal, and most of the riders are without liscences. I could have swonr that I saw a lad no older than fourteen on the colonial trial this year.

Surely it couldn't smell of coolant, because the coolant wouldn't leak into your engine, the exhaust fumes would leak into the cooling system. Unless there was a really big problem.

I wouldn't have thought that the 200 would be too underpowered for you as such, you will just have to rev it more. The smaller engine will definately mean less dabs when you get tired though if you can get used to it.

Aren't you riding a 200 now neonsurge? All my bikes have done this and I am told that it is normal, however I think that it is less of a problem with larger capacity bikes as they don't stall as easily when the clutch sticks and maybe have enough power to unstick them. My bike usually does it, but my 200 does it much less severely than the 125 which I used to ride as on that you could ride around for quite a while whilst pumping the clutch and it wouldn't stop dragging until I put it into top gear.

I believe that the JLI website has an annotated diagram of where the timing should be set. http://www.thetrialcompany.com/ click on the year or your bike, then 'FAQs' then 'see diagram'

well I reckon it is just a mystery, Even Fix It didn't understand it, he said that colour change was often caused by an exposed weld, but the goo is just wacky, when I flushed mine out there wasn't much in the actual radiator, just on the radiator car and the thermostat which are both made of what look to me to be the same metal, could the coolant be reacting to contact with this metal?

I was actually just asking for slightly more specific instructions such as how many and where the bolts were to remove. Do you remove the whole of the frame which holds the airbox on?

I agree with what has been said on here, but I believe that Dougie once said not to let your tyres down too much or it closes up the treads and gives you less grip. Might be a good idea to find out how much this is and make sure you stay above it?

My back brake pedal seems to be awfully close to the chain for my liking, is this normal or is this why they break due to wear?

I use some spray on filter oil which I accidentally bought online from motorex, it is very good as it dries semi liquid and so doesn't run off and you can tell when anough has been applied as the stuff has a strong blue colour, I have had no problems with much or water in my carb or airbox, has anybody used this stuff before, it lasts ages! However it would be useful to get some instruction about how to remove the airbox, I considered removing the whole rear subframe thingy as I hadn't a clue. Bob

That sounds just like the problem I had, greenish goo and clear/orange coolant, I flushed out the whole system, dunno what is causing it, I have just replaced the pump shaft and seal aswell and that didn't stop it, I mixed some stronger coolant but don't know if it has had any effect. bob

What bike are you looking at Lew, you were considering a Beta before weren't you? Bob

I did mine and had a right going on, i also thought it would be easy when I heard Tordi's advice, but my spacer is also soft, I ended up: >taking off the dust seal and trashing the race, >pulling out the middle of the bearing, the balls and the spacer, >pulling out the opposite side bearing with a bearing puller, >and sitting for a long time looking at the outer ring of the bearing which was now stuck in my wheel with no lip to get a hold of and decided that I was absolutely shafted. Luckily a guy named 'Fix It' arrived at that very moment and said that he would weld a ring around the inside of the metal ring so that the ring would contract and fall out. This worked amazingly with no damage to the hub, he is evidently very good at welding. I hope this makes you realise Stu that you had it easy when you changed your bearings, and I now know that when the bearings need changing, it is time to change the bike!

hi everyone, I drained my radiator today to change the coolant and to make sure everything was hunkydory since Summer is here and it is hot, The coolant which I am using is a water and antifreeze mix and I had no problems with it in my old Sherco. The mix which I drained out when I got the bike was a pale orange but I thought this was the colour of the coolant which the previous owner had used, however when i drained the coolant this time the blue coolant had turned a very pale orange aswell, I also noticed some orange gunk on the radiator cap. So whats going on, is this ok and what can I do? I am going to remove the pump cover to see if there is gunk in here too, should I try to flush out the system by ticking a hose in it? Is it possible that somebody has used orange juice as coolant or something and that is making my coolant go a dodgy colour? Help! Bob

mine used to drip oil out of that joint until I started mixing my oil at 80:1, what are you mixing your oil at and what type of oil are you using as many modern oils can be used at 100:1 reasonably safely. My clutch does make some noise but that may not be supposed to be happening, although it hasn't been a problem. bob

it isn't the subframe which was cracked, just the aluminium thingy on the rearsilencer, as far as I know the metalstick bush on the exhaust is ok, if not I have a couple of spares though. Nothing is broken apart from that tab on the muffler due to vibration as I am told that the type of crack is caused by this. I could have moved the tab but I am worried about twisting at the joint whenre it joins into the front silencer. Bob

it hasn't just started, it just seemed to have got worse, I took it off as I said and the bracket on the muffler was cracked so I got that re-welded and it is still rubbing a little like before. I will try a decal again and a think washer like you said and see what happens at the next trial. unforturnately I don't think that I have that small bracket RobW but thanks for your help, I don't think that it would go much further left anyway since the muffler was rubbing on the airbox until I glued it to the airbox with silicone to stop any vibration. Cheers bob

I put a double layer of vinyl on the inside but it wore through that pretty quickly, I have had the muffler off and there is actually a crack on the bracket so I have got that welded up so that it points the muffler out slightly, I will also try to get some plaggy washers and see if that will stop it, it isn't too bad though like you say TrialsRFun. Thanks Bob

I think that it is the mud on the tyre which is causing the damage, I have tried the washer solution but am still getting some rubbing, maybe a section of push bike tyre zip tied to the muffler would cure it? Thanks, Bob

Hi all, Just wondered if anybody knew a quick fix to stop your muffler from rubbing on the wheel, I am riding an 03 with a Michelin X11 tyre. I have put in quite afew washers on the bracket but this doesn't seem like a very good idea to me, I have recently had the bracket rewelded and this has reduced the problem but not solved it. Thanks, Bob

Nice car, I also have a Lada in similar condition, but I drove mine round a field to do the damage.

ok, thanks, i will have ago once I have got myself a decent spoke key, I went round the wheel tapping the spokes and one or two in the area of the buckle made a dong so this is obviously the only problem area. I had a ittle practice on an old bike wheel and it isn't too hard. Thanks Bob

Alan at FeetUp will have all the stuff you need in stock, I have done this on my 03 bike, it is pretty easy, simply take the whole side case off, and then take the impeller housing off. I changed the shaft, seal, O ring on the impeller housing and the gasket on the engine case. Don't forget to fully drain the radiator beforehand. It is a quick job and only costs about fifteen quid. The oil in your gearbox may appear to be slightly frothy due to bubbles when running. Try checking your radiator coolant level before and after a reasonable ride to check if water is leaking out of the system, but don't forget that the radiator will not run completely full. Bob