heathy

Hi, I have seen the custom trialstar sherco stickers and like the idea of having a custom bike but don't really like their designs. Their stickers are also quite expensive (about

I've checked the inlet and can't see anything wrong with it, Although I think this is a carb problem, I will do a pressure test first to make sure. Thanks for everyones help!

Hi chris, yea I read the page, thanks, It could be a leak in a gasket but I don't think it is because of the way the problem occured to start with. How did you make a pressure tester? I was going to use a bike pump.

Thanks for the link hondars. Chris the reason I dont think it is an air leak is that the problem started before I took anything apart, and it happened by itself. When I put the bike back together I did clean all of the mating surfaces with a razor then I put a light coating of grease on all of the gaskets to ensure a good seal. I was going to try to make a pressure tester but it would probly leak more than the bike. Where abouts are you from chris. thanks

Your beta looks mint neonsurge:P good way to save money on the mudguard stickers aswell

I inspected the crankcases when i disassembled the engine looks like it can only be the carb now, do eurocarb have a website or phone number. thanks for all of your help everyone

Here is my Identiti Dr jekyll, was originaly black but I got bored of black and decided to spray it grey. My setup is; Identiti Dr Jekyll Frame Marzocchi Bomber Z1 Wedge forks Front and Rear Hope Hubs with Mavic Rims Planet X Bars (originally white but now same colour as frame) DMR V8 Pedals Front and rear Hope C2 Disk Brakes Shimano LX rear mech (converted to single speed) Hope Headset and top cap Planet X Stem (changed from the funn stem since picture was taken) 22 tooth middleburn chainring 34 tooth DMR chainring DMR Bashring

Is the bike an ex factory bike? My mate has a ex Graham Jarvis sherco bike which has no identification numbers on it.

Think it must be the carb, the bike run fine all of last year on chainsaw oil and my other two bikes were fine using it. I have checked the fuel and it seems to be flowing fine with no blockages.

I done it myself on my gas gas, just mask the spokes and take off your tyre then use some good quality plastic coat paint and give it about 3 coats. I painted mine black and it lasted ages, I just had to touch it up everytime I hit the rim on a rock or scratched the paint.

I found this pic somewhere (can't remember where) which explains what every letter and number means on the spark plug

Your best bet is probably part exing it for a new bike. I used my gas gas JTX 250 in part ex for my sherco 290 and got

The bike idles normally but with a tiny touch of the throttle (slide moves about 5mm) it goes straght to full revs without building up through the rev range. As you said hondars it will need to be pressure tested. But although it sounds like an air leak I think its a problem with the carb because if it idles fine you would think it would work normally.

The pilot jet is #33 and the main is #124 I really can't think of anything else that could be wrong with it. I'll explain how the problem started if that helps: It was running fine, then I took it out one day and it was normal for about 15 minutes but then I noticed the top end revs were much higher than usual, the top end gradually got worse until after about an hour it siezed due to the high high top end and ruined the piston and barrel. Now that I have rebuilt it the problem is even worse and it simply doesnt have a bottom rev range anymore. It revs seriosley high now eg. like many riders I used to open the throttle fully now and again to clean the engine out, it revs a lot higher now with a tiny touch of the throttle than when the throttle was fully open before. Because of the way it happened it seems like something worn very fast but I just don't know what it is. thanks again Steven

I used paint to make my number plate, I just made a yellow background, then I went on a number plate registration website where you type your number plate in and it shows you a preview of it (so that I got the correct font), I copied and pasted the letters, then i printed it, laminated it and used some super glue to stick it to the rear mudguard.

Here is my 2004 sherco 290, not working properly at the moment though. Not a very good picture

I had a gas gas and the gearbox fell to bits! I have replaced the base gasket and the two orings in the head, I also coated them lightly with grease to ensure there was a ood seal, then I sprayed WD40 all over the joins while the bike was running to see if there were any leaks. I think its going to have to go to the shop because I've tried everything I can think of.

I've even tried running it with the throttle disconnected and just using a screwdriver to move the slide but its still the same. looks like i'll have to take it to white brothers to pressure test it.

Hi Jaylael and big_john, thanks for your replies. Jaylael, I have just tried everything you said, the engine cuts out the immediately when I put my hand over the air horn. The needle looks ok and I have tried all clip positions with no result, the choke seems to move fine and the fuel flow from the petcock seems normal, the floats are move freely and I have checked that they float in a cup of petrol. Big_john, the spring is strong and I have also stretched it slightly, when you blip the throttle it goes to full revs (way above what the top end used to be before this problem started) but its not as though the slide is sticking because as soon as you let go of the throttle it will go back to idiling. thanks again for your replies, I think I've got the sherco from hell.

I've had my sherco 290 up to 60mph with standard gearing, while riding alongside my mates car. I would think it would go to around 90mph with a different gear setup, but I would want to be the one to try it out. Trials bikes don't feel very safe at high speed!

Hi coxy, thanks for your reply, I have ran the bike with the airbox off so I could see the slide moving, it moves around 5mm from idle and goes on full revs. Its very strange, Could anything inside the carb cause this problem as I have closely inspected and/or changed every other part that could leak. Also the slide seems fine.

My 2004 sherco seems fine when it's idling but with a tiny touch of the throttle it goes straight to full revs (as though it is sucking in too much air from somewhere) It started doing this about a month ago and caused the bike to overheat and I have had to replace the cylinder and get the barrel re-chromed because of this, I also took the opportunity to change the main crankshaft bearings and also the seals as I thought air could be getting in through the crankshaft seals, I also replaced every gasket in the engine. Now that the bike is back together I still have the same problem of the bike going to full revs with a tiny touch of the throttle. I have done the following things. 1) Totally disassembled the carburettor and checked everything inside the carburettor for signs of wear or damage 2) Replaced the crankshaft seals 3) Replaced all gaskets 4) Replaced all seals 5) Checked pipe joining engine to carburettor for wear or damage 6) Checked pipe from carburettor to air box for wear or damage 7) Checked reeds and reed block for signs of wear or damage 8) Cleaned the air filter and air box 9) Made sure fuel mixture is correct 10) Checked the timing is set correctly 11) Set the gas screws on the carburettor correctly Has anyone ever had a problem like this before or can think of anything else I could try? Thanks Steven