breeze

Hi, I broke my right tibia platau at the end of August, caught foot on a tree stump and the force transfered to the knee. All was healing well, walking ok, Friday , time to get on bike. Rode of into the dark (car park at top of industrial estate) turned and fell off onto right knee. Lots of pain and much fear at going home to the wife. Employee took me home, set me up on the sofa and departed quickly before the wife returned home. Have spent Saturday in casualty (they don't think it's broken again) and the rest of the weekend without much conversation apart from being told what a knob I am (thinks she is probably correct)Looks like the new year before I can fall off again!

Hope you like your new purchase. You should have been given a box of bits (mirror etc) & a dvd which gives all the details.

Hi Bigman, thanks for your reply, have done a deal on a 2011 250.

yes

Hi, I am looking to buy a new evo (2011) 250 or 290? I am a fat chap at 16 stone and have only done half a dozen trials (since last riding 30 years ago)on a twin shock, which doesn't seem to like me too much, am hoping a modern bike will be a tad more enjoyable? Any help would be appreciated.

Hi, have owned my 320 for 4 months and have found that I need to clean the points (faces) before every trial, no clean no spark. Runs very well for the whole day, no probs. Leave for a few days & no start, clean points and away she goes. I suspect the condensor is on the way out but the points do not look blued/burnt and it does run/start a treat after cleaning the points.

Yes that is the main needle & the clip position raises/lowers the needle within the needle jet, richens/leans the mixture from approx 1/4 to 3/4 slide position. This is not what you need to be replacing, it is the needle & seat that the floats are controlling. A long time since a looked at an amal - but I assume there is a pin holding the floats, withdraw the pin & remove the floats, the inner part of the needle/seat will probably be attatched, it has a tappered seat, some are viton tipped (sort of rubber), the seat can then be unscrewed & checked. On most carbs the seat is marked with its size 200, 250,300 which relates to the fuel flow - replace with like for like (assuming it had the correct size before) I have found these needle valves can be a problem even on new carbs that have been storred upside down - thus with the weight of the floats pushing the valve against its seat & marking it, causing it to flood when used, simple answer - if in doubt fit a new valve & seat (always as a pair)

Sounds like it's running too rich (4 stroking) maybee the main jet was increased over time to compensate for the crank seals passing air? and now it is not drawing in air you are left with too rich at top end.

Hi My experiences are with Kart 2 stroke engines (25 years) but I have come back to trials with an SWM 320. To your problems. I would pressure test the engine first, if ok the next often missed area is the ignition, obviously you have a spark otherwise it would'nt run at all, but if the spark is not of a high enough voltage and duration you can be trying to compensate by carburation changes. Assuming ignition is 100% (do not just assume it is ok - check) then re check the carb. Have you checked that the new carbs needle jet tube is the same (size of tube will affect most of the range of slide position), you say you have moved the needle clip up, this will weaken the mixture, sounds like it needs to be richer. Have you checked that the slide has the same cut-away? All of this, re the carb is assuming a Bing is much the same as a Dellorto etc.

Hi The only way to check the piston is to remove it & check it, measure & inspect it with a magnified glass. For sizes etc, speak to Peter Knight on 01761 414106, doubt anybody knows more about Rotax's in this country than he does.

Hi lapping is not polishing it is lapping! the key does not hold the flywheel on it merely gives you a specific position, the taper is what holds it on and the nut stop it from working loose. You need to ensure the tapers are clean, apply a small film of valve grinding paste to the taper (without the key fitted) put the flywheel onto the crank and with light pressure turn back & forth the flywheel to lap together the mating surfaces, when correct you will find that the flywheel locks to the crank with very little pressure. Clean very carefully the crank & flywheel, refit key, fit flywheel & nut, tighten to correct torque.

Hi Can anybody advise as to what pressure to use in a Betor expert rear shock (new) & at 360mm are they the correct length (being a short a*** a 340mm would help me to reach the ground!) any thoughts, please. SWM 320 1982

Hi, havn't ridden a trials bike for 30 years, but have just purchased a SWM 320 to wobble about on, looking for somewhere to practice around the Surrey/Sussex/Hampshire border area?