250yam

I know that locktons have involvement with rallying, and provide on event cover for competitive events.

The thought had crossed my mind, but I decided I was better getting out at that point, and going with a newer, less rusty, and hopefully less frustrating machine. "Decent nick to start with" was the problem in my case really.

With the greatest of respect, it's not a cheap mod is it, due obviously to the rarity of the parts, and I guess the limited market for them? I think an auxillary tank and a buttrest are probably going to be the best way to go for me. Thanks for the input, and any more advice is very welcome, I'm new to this, and could be barking up the wrong tree totally!

I've recently bought, and subsequently sold a TY250 Twinshock as I just can't be a***d with knackered old stuff anymore if I'm being honest, I should have spent a bit more on a decent bike to start with. So, I'm left with a dilemma, I really would like a modern mono (Mont 315r or Beta Rev3 250, Scorpa 250), what appeals is the newer technology, and hopefully having to do less to the bike than an old twinshock. But, I'd also like a bike I could ride for a bit of trails, or longer distances, around the farm etc, so what are my options in terms of using one of the above? As I see it, I could fit a buttrest (http://www.buttrest.co.uk/), and mini hebo tank to the forks, but are these buttrests any good? And how much longer are you likely to be able to ride for with the small extra tank? or, I have seen some long range tanks kicking about eBay for the 315. or, Beta did a long range seat/tank combo for the Rev3/Evo, but they don't seem to be about! So, has anyone got any advice please? Another twinshock is an option, but would rather spend in the region of

Hi all, I'm looking to buy a 250 Rev 3, 2005 or older. Will probably be looking at the higher end, little used or dealer bikes as I don't want to have to virtually rebuild a bike, as it seems you have to with cheap ones. So, when buying, are there any specific things to this model that should be looked at, for pre '06? Are any bearing or pivots etc prone to wear? Cheers, Sam

I've got a Camelbak Mule that I bought for Mountain Biking, but plan to use on the trial bike too, in my opinion, it would be only just big enough. With a lightweight jacket, water, a spare bicycle inner tube and a couple of multi-tools in it's about enough to carry in a small(ish) bag. I find bigger packs that cover more of your back and spread the load more are more comfortable to be honest.

Well, sounds similar, the drive gear should be turned by a tabbed washer that sits on the top over two flats on the shaft part of the drive gear. All held on by a circlip, got that off, and the washer, but the actual gear is stuck solid, can't shift it a bit. Think I'm just gona leave the drive gear in there without the washer, I've got what I can out out of the speedo cable hole, so I'll just fill that with chemical metal or similar. Cheers

I want to remove the speedo from my TY250, it hasn't been working for a while anyway by the looks of things. I've sourced a new (2nd hand) brake plate because the casting had broke on mine where the torque arm bolts on. But, the cable's snapped off, and the speedo drive gear/worm drive are seized solid, and I just can't see how to get the cable out? I planned to remove it completely and fill the hole up, but even on the old brake plate which isn't seized I can't work it out with all the gubbins removed. Any advice? Cheers

My 250 (as standard) doesn't find gears very well when stopped, but it's fine when running, perhaps that's just how they are?

Had a look at the chain tensioner last night with a view to ordering a new spring and block, but it seems it's in worse condition than I thought, the sleeve part of the tensioner that goes over the stud on the swing arm is all worn away on the one side and ovalled out. I might be able to find a second hand replacement on eBay, but does anyone know if there are any alternatives available? There seem to be after market versions (smp) for the 125 & 175, but not the 250. Are they much different? I noticed the spring is actually the same for all models. Any advice or help welcome! Cheers

If I go to the trouble of putting a tow bar on I may aswell put the lighting socket on, have got a little trailer to modify anway. Better to be safe than sorry.

One more question - what are they like for size? Advisable to go for one up from normal shoes? Cheers

I guess it also depends how far you're going to travel with it, in my case probably not far, and we've got van/trailers anyway. Recently had new rear shockers anyway so that should help in my case.

Tidy, think I'll have to get a tow bar and rack ordered! I've just realised we've got an old trailer at a mates place that I can modify if I want to carry more than one bike as well, should be ideal, fairly low slung, all angle frame on a mini rear beam. Yet another project...... Await the 'what design for my trailer?' thread.

Has anyone fitted a rack to an original shape (2003) Focus Hatchback? Dad's got a van that will fit 2 bikes or more, but I'm not insured on it and can't rely on him all the time, so I'm thinking a tow bar and rack's the best bet for just getting my own bike about. We've also got a couple of small trailers which may be adaptable. Can get a complete tow bar kit for

You can get tow bars off eBay for about

I'm just getting into trials and need some kit as I'm not to keen on the prospect of sprained/broken ankles and smashed up shins. So, can anyone give an opinion on this years Wulfsport Boots? They're obviously at the lower end of the market, but should do a total novice alright for a few years right? One chap I've spoken to is willing to do me the Boots, and an Airflo Helmet for

I intend to use my mountain biking gloves, cheaper and almost the same anyway, nice and thin and flexible.

Sorted hopefully, got a 2nd hand one coming a forum member, cheers chaps!

Does anybody know where the two further posts (one with an offer of help) have gone? Have they been moderated? Cheers

Cheers Rich, much as I expected unfortunately, think mine's been broken and welded, and the weld is fouling the tube in the frame, there are some on the dreaded ebay in the states, might be a big ask to get one made or modify this one, even with a friend who can fabricate/weld tidy. Hmmmmmm Might be going to look at a 175 sometime too, might have got the bug.....

I've been trying to get the rear brake to work on the 250 ('78 twinshock), but I've encountered a problem - I don't think the pivot is original. Firstly, there was no return spring for the pedal, so I bought one, but there's no lug on the lever/pivot for it to attach to (should there even be one?), so the pedal just sits at the bottom of it's travel. Secondly, the shaft that comes through the frame is threaded and has a bolt on the outside of the frame, this doesn't seem right looking at some photo's on the net, as it appears it should be a circlip or pin through a plain shaft? Thirdly, the brake lever (Hub end) was hanging down, so I thought I'd switch it around to keep it up out of the crap (as it seems to be on most bikes), but I just can't get the cable to adjust up anywhere near, seems like it's too long, and I've put a new spring and adjuster nut on the hub end, but no matter what I do there just doesn't seem to be anywhere like enough travel on the brake pedal/cable. Anyway, here's a photo of the pivot below: What does anyone think, is there any chance of getting a replacement? If not, I'll have to get one made, could someone post a photo of what it should be like please? Cheers

Right, I've been on to both, Dynasurf want

Cheers chaps, very useful info, had seen Philpots (Pitted Forks) website, but nice to get some feedback from people who've used them, and dynasurf, think I'll give them both a ring tomorrow and see how we go. I'm undecided whether to get the bike to an alright usable state for now and see if I can ride the thing any good or not (probably sensible), or go for a more thorough restoration, but the forks aren't gona hold oil as they are, and if the wheel needs straightening, has a spoke missing and the ones left are rusty seems I may as well have all new spokes. Suppose the rest of the forks will get tarted up while they're apart, so that's the front end about sorted, and then the rest will be in need of some attention. I've replaced some service parts, plus throttle cable, grips and levers already, got a few more small bits on their way too. Who do you all use for bits? JK Hirst and Trail & Trials I've used so far, anywhere else to rival them? Cheers

The forks on my TY250 have quite a lot of pitting, although not really deep, the seals are gone and it seems futile to replace them and try a bodge fix on the stanchions. So, what's the best option? Re-chroming? Front Wheel could also do with rebuilding with new spokes if that has any bearing on the matter? I'm only just getting into trials, so not looking for all out performance, but want the bike right, at least to original standards. Cheers