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digga

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Everything posted by digga

  1. Hi 280i, I have Btwice throttle body ,wider bash plate and flywheel weight kit, all good stuff. The throttle body works a treat, no more dicking around setting the idle speed by adjusting the "throttle stop" which you all know affects the TPS setting which you are trying get in a specfic spot, just turn the brass set/thumb screw which lets air bypass the throttle butterfly and your adjusting the idle, it's that easy. I found the return spring on the Btwice was a little heavy so I used the one off the Ossa throttle body. I do have diagnostic cables as well but they were genuine Ossa ones I purchased from my dealer here in Australia (WHICH WE NO LONGER HAVE), luckily our Gasser importer has offered to get Ossa parts from the factory.
  2. Hi there, I know we have a few middle aged adult riders in our club that had 250cc Gasser's and Beta's but I noticed early last year they all bought 280's and 300's this time around. I know here in Australia I have never even seen a 250 Ossa,all 280's and I have just put a 300 barrel,piston and head on my own Ossa. It would also depend on your style of riding and what type of terrain you regularly ride, I would imagine if you rode a lot of tight and technical sections as opposed to steep hillclimbs the 250cc bike would be fine, on the bigger stuff it may be a little lacking in power I would think. Would be nice if you could get a test ride on a 250cc bike of any brand just to let you compare the power difference.
  3. Hi Dave & JJ, There is a Vin Number on the frame up near the steering head which will tell you what year it is. As far as "what to look out for" is a tricky question with out going over it with a "fine tooth comb" for hours and riding it for a while. I think the 2013 came with a high compression head as standard if my memory serves me right, I think that made them a bit of a "bugger " to kick,it should also have the later air cleaner kit which makes for easier air filter service (unlike the 2011 & 2012). That is also correct, the 2013 had the different shape/flexible rear guard. As far as gearbox problems went, some guys experienced selector shaft problem, usually self inflicted by whacking them on a rock or someone litterally jumping on the gear lever. You need to sit the bike on a stand and check the rear linkage for movement/play, the Ossa has teflon coated bushes not bearings, they seem to last pretty well though. Same goes for checking the wheel bearings,steering head bearings. If you havent had an Ossa before you may want to do some reading regarding installing a "battery pack" to aid starting, this has been a debatable issue, but I can assure you after owning an Ossa for the last 21/2 yrs it transforms the starting of the bike and solves any starting issues they had. You will find some interesting reading in earlier threads on the forum here under Ossa obviously. I have a 2012 that we recently put a genuine 300 kit on and have also just done a full "2014 Factory R makeover" on, including plastics,wiring harness,decals,full Termignoni Exhaust system,none of which would have been possible without the help of an extremely talented friend of mine in the paint industry who also has an Ossa and a J/Gas. Hope this gives you some insight, if you want some serious knowledge about the Ossa you could contact PeterB from New Zealand, he lives and breathes Ossa's and will advise you on the "does and donts".
  4. digga

    Tr280I Footpeg Removal

    Hi Ric If there the same as the 2012 ? Put a torx wrench in both sides of the mounting bolt and undo in a anti-clocwise direction,, the underside bolt should come out, then from underneath tap upwards with a drift or pin punch and the top shaft will come out, this has a 8mm female thread in it. Yes it's a bazar way of fixing pegs (unlike everyone else) BUT the pegs dont seem to wear on the shaft much as there a 10mm dia rather than 8mm like all the others. Hope this helps.
  5. digga

    Tr280I Winter Makeover

    Hi ric h, sorry for hanging you out there, the 2013 bikes had the "easy change" air filter which has a plastic cage inside the foam element with a wing nut headed bolt that lets you remove the air filter/cage only. I am guessing yours is still original (2011/12) meaning you have to remove the ECU,and relay then undo the worm drive hose clamps,remove the throttle body and then pull the whole air filter assembley out through the top of the air filter box for cleaning purposes?
  6. digga

    Tr280I Winter Makeover

    Yeah I just noticed 2 pieces of the cage on mine that has recently become un-attached and done the same (dissappeared), we have the motor out at the moment for a "Factory R makeover" but there are no signs of the missing plastic cage pieces in crankcase or anywhere else for that matter. Obviously the cages dont take much knocking when re-fitting, I have fitted the 2013 removable cage/filter in my 2012 but its still difficult to do the air-cleaner, so now the bike is in a million pieces it's getting the 2013 wirring harnes to shift the ECU out of the air-cleaner.
  7. digga

    Tr280I Winter Makeover

    Howdy ric h, yeah it looks like it has "picked up" at some stage, I doubt its the mixture, I have a 2012 Ossa and have run it at 140:1 all its life, we just pulled it down and put a 300 kit on it and the bore was perfect, still looked like new. I guess yours has either got hot or servere lack of oil at some stage, or new rings with in-correct end gap, are you the original owner ? A barrel and piston kit isn't cheap, mine was well over $1000-00 AUD, if you need a good used one PM me as I have the 2012 head , barrel,and piston,spare new base gasket sitting in my bike spares cupboard. To give you an idea my bike has done about 45hrs according to the computer.
  8. Hi there guys,not sure if this question has been asked before but has anybody fitted a 2013 seat unit to the 2012 bike,I assume the frame was identical? I see an an earlier post someone had fitted a 2013 rear guard to the 2012 seat unit, thats fine untill you want to upgrade to a 2013 or 2014 decal set as the seat unit is slightly different where the rear guard connects, and the earlier (2012) decal set has 3 extra pieces in it for that area of the seat base. So if you upgrade to the later year decal set it may not fit the seatbase even if you have fitted the later rear guard ? diga
  9. Hi Ossie I was just using his email address thats on B'twice's website under "contact". I suspect he is not answering as I believe he has gone back to work for Ossa again,I received an email a few weeks ago from Xavia Membrives(Ossa's Fuel Injection Tech) to say he was "moving on" to bigger and better things (leaving ossa) and he mentioned Alex was returning to Ossa,so I am wondering if thats why he's hard to contact. Deosn't help you though,I would try Adrian Lewis in the USA as the postage I paid from Spain was pretty stiff,those 3 items cost 50euro each and the postage was 75euro on top,they dont take credit cards or Pay-Pal,so you have to do an "international bank transfer" which your bank hits you you up another $20-30 AUD as well.
  10. Hi there Ossie I live in Brisbane and I got a throttle body and some bits of Alex several weeks ago (Throttle Body,Wider Bash Plate & Flywheel Weight Kit),the idle adustment screw is just magic,you set your TPS as per spec's and then just adjust your idle like any other bike,no touching the throttle stop screw anymore which affects the TPS setting as everybody knows ! The idle screw is just an air passage from one side of the throttle body butterfly to the other,nothing complicated,we did change the return spring that came on the B'twice body (too heavy) to the original Ossa one which I preferred the feel of. He charged me (50 Euro) for the throttle body plus postage. As far as I know I think Alex has returned to Ossa.
  11. Yeah as the other members have said I would give an o-ring chain a miss,due to size restictions and power loss,I have had a great run with an ( RK-GB520MXZ4/Gold ) (non 0-ring) chain,had it on a 2001-321 Gasser for a few years,On my 2012 Ossa I have been running a (DID-ERT2/Gold ) for the past 12months,it has barely stretched,both of these are lightweight motocross chains all rated over 8000lb tensile strength. But in saying all this I remove the chain after every ride,wash in fuel,let dry and then soak it in a tub of oil for an hour or two,then hang to drain excess and refit to bike prior to next ride,yes its a task but I am still on the original sprockets (that came on the Ossa) and the DID chain that I fitted to the bike just after buying it. From what I have seen over the past years all the "trials chains" by ( Regina,Iris & CZ ) are just junk,they just stretch week after week,its never ending till they wont fit the sprockets.
  12. digga

    Clutch On Tr280I

    Hi Steveo,thanks for the reply,no its always been pretty on/off,thought they were all like that? All as I know its not very progressive compared to the 2009 320 4t Sherco I have borrowed at the moment,due to an ECU problem on the Ossa. There was previous post where someone had fitted 2013 clutch pack with a good result and another guy in the UK was suggesting he was going to do the same.
  13. digga

    Clutch On Tr280I

    Hi there guys,I am on a 2012 TR280i,anybody else done any clutch mods (later clutch pack) to improve the progressiveness of the clutch,mine is really on/of,have tried various oils including 75wt GRO and others,the clutch drag is not to bad once warmed up. I see in a previous thread someone has installed the 2013 clutch pack,anybody else been down this track with success,and whats the cost?
  14. Hi "old ozzie" I have a 2012 thats dragged the clutch since new,has 34hrs on it now and still has what I think "considerable clutch drag",I am running GRO 75wt,have also bled the clutch. If I take all the freeplay out of the lever and have everthing adjusted right up its not to bad,not great but and really very "on/off"as well ! A mate runs Nulon 75wt transmission oil in his Ossa (AVAILABLE AT "SUPERCHEAP") comes in a litre bottle and is a lot cheaper than GRO which can be hard to find at times. Not sure what to do with mine,has been changed several times,I will buy some Nulon next and give that a shot. I am running a 12 volt "start system" on mine,just a NMH battery pack which is available for under $10 on ebay plus a switch,they can be a ******* without them as you have seen on the forum.
  15. digga

    Footrest

    I think you will find they are the same fitment as the current Gas Gas, S3 do some nice pegs including there top of the range Titanium ones!
  16. digga

    Boyesen Reeds/tr-280I

    Hi there guys,anybody had any experience with the Boyesen Carbon Tech Reeds now available for the Ossa's (TR280i and Explorer) Part No-: CTT125.
  17. digga

    Rear Brake

    Hi JSP Mine has got stuck on several times in last few months,not from the ball joint being loose but the rear brake (adustment bolt/stop) gets smalls rocks under it where it sits on the frame and when you apply the brake rubbish gets jammed under the head of the adustment bolt and the rear brake canot return to its off posistion when released. Regards,digga.
  18. Hi there, I had a Beta Techno several years back that had identical symptoms as that and it turned out to be a faulty stator,it would run for a period of time and then give you the symptoms of a plug breaking down. My Beta would always end up with water being held in the ignition cover as it was very pliable plastic ignition cover that seemed impossible to seal. And on that note,my 2012 Ossa has also been taking in water to the ignition side,I removed the cover yesterday to find bad rust marks on the flywheel due to water laying in there for sometime,so all you guys need to check this now and again,I will be trying to see if I can improve the seal will a smear of silocone. I have just ordered a flywheel puller to remove the flywheel on mine and give everything a good clean,by the way the flywheel puller is the same as a (Gas Gas Pro) M27mm x 1mm (right hand thread). Hope this helps.
  19. Hi there guys,just wondered if anybody has succeeded in getting a "duel map" installation installed on there "standard" bikes,I know the "Factory Edition" has this function and so did the last years "SSDT Model". I see Bob at Ossa Canada has mentioned he now has the "Duel Map Switch" available, I assume just running the latest Map-13 does still not let you access this function even once the "Duel Map Switch" is installed. Anybody know the correct Map Number or File Name of the "Duel Map" ? Also I have been trying to find a flywheel puller for the TR 280i,has anyone seen these for sale anywhere?
  20. Hi there Sunlingkau, No my bike is still running (slow action) Black throttle tube as per standard,but I might get hold of a fast action just to compare and see the difference. Thanks.
  21. Hi Guys,I hope you didn't think I was bashing the Ossa in general with my last post ! I OWN ONE AS WELL, just frustrated when you start reading threads about some poor guys possibly may sell there bikes as they cant start them,yes I know there is a knack to it,But this is surpose to be a state of the art machine,but nearly everybody has had the same problem ! I have had mine about 3 months now, (1st kick hot ) & maybe (4-6 kicks cold),its a 2012 model but still on (Map-11),thats how it turned up from the dealer as they had some issue loading (Map-12) at the time so they just sent them out with (Map-11),that was after I contacted them to find out what map was in it,and since then have never been contacted. My comparrison against other bikes is not without validation by the way,my mate has a Gasser (300 Raga) latest model,If all you guys think the Ossa is smooth down low,then you all need to go ride a 300 Raga,yes I know its 20cc bigger,but Gas Gas have the tunning down pat with the Kehin Flat Slide on that bike and it also makes bukets of power at the other end of the scale, we swap bikes when we are ridding regularly and yes they are super smooth right down low,my Ossa is pretty lumppy compared to it on the first 1/8" of throttle. I know from speaking to another dealer in New Zealand that they have experimented by changing a few settings (outside the guidelines) with assistance from the UK importer and have had good results, better smoothness and power I believe. My post was mainly about aftersales service on the bikes, when there is clearly improvements being made by the factory every month for our bikes,but due to these services not being able to be performed we are no better off,the great warrantty that Ossa have means nothing if these dealers don't have the equipment to perform these checks & upgrades.
  22. Unfortunately here in Australia we have only one importer ( Moto Central ) of the Ossa (TR-280i) and what seems to be several distributors that he has appointed througout Australia,and as everyone now knows "re-mapping" and "checking of engine specs" can not done without "Ossa's" magic box,sofware and a Laptop Computer, which most these people seem reluctant to set themselves up with! One would imagine the Ossa ( Factory) would not like this type of "aftersales service" of a product that they are trying so desperately to establish against other tried and proven bike manufacturers. These people (Dealers) will gladly take your money for a new bike and make lots of promises about what they will do for you regarding "map upgrades" and the likes in the future,but the reality is once you have the bike its your problem, and unlike other bike brands that tunning can be done by the owner, with our bikes (Ossa's) you are at the "mercy of your dealer" ! I firmly believe that if Ossa don't improve this starting issue and through its dealers possibly offer the new (LSS) starting system to its "more than patient" existing 2011 / 2012 owners and see to it that "all dealers" can do the "map upgrades" there will be plenty of owners at the end day that will sit down and ask themselves what was to be gained by buying the Ossa over the other two popular brands (Gas Gas & Sherco),sure its fuel injected,but it makes no more power and certainly is nowhere near as smooth at low throttle settings as the previous mentioned bikes, neither of which have these starting issues or require it to be taken back to the so called dealer for electrical diagnostic work or tunning problems. Maybe it is about time the Ossa factory starting receiving more emails from its owners making them aware that some people here in Australia live thousands of kilometres from there "Importer/Distributor" who can be difficult to contact most of the time. I imagine there will be many existing owners of Ossa's that will reluctantly go back to other brands of trials bikes when it is time to upgrade,simply so that they don't have these issues that they have very little control over.
  23. Hi borus,sorry for the late reply,have now drained the tank and will remix some different brand fuel/oil and give that a go! I contacted my dealer who is in another State (about 700 klms away),he has now confirmed it is still running (Map-11) not (Map-12) as you suggested,even though the bike is only 4weeks old! The dealer is just about to supply another one of his franchise shops with the "Ossa" diagnostic equipment which is about 80 klms away so when that is up and running maybe i can get (Map-12) installed,which might help things as well? Regards.
  24. Hi Steve,thanks to all you guys that replied to my post! I still believe its a fuel/oil related problem,but i need to check that air-cleaner fitment,are you talking about the tube thats part of the air-clener element that attaches to the throttle body OR the rubber sensor you remove on the side of the air-cleaner box prior to filter removal? The trial was at Maroon Dam (Rathdowney) QLD,it was a hell hot day,with a storm just after lunch,made the sections change slightly,there was one other Ossa there,2012 same as mine. Thanks,digga( Peter)
  25. Hi there borus,just wondered if you have ever heard of any of Tr280's having (fouling spark plug) issues,have had mine about 4 weeks now and only on its third tank of fuel and third day out. I went to a trial yesterday and by lunch time it had fouled the plug,very black looking but no visible signs of carbon bridging the electrode,i put the original NGK plug in that came with the bike and did another two laps of ten sections and same again, bit of a backfire then barley running. I replaced the original plug the day i picked the bike up (new) with an identical heat range but NGK Irridium type and kept the original as a spare,i am using Motul Fully Sythetic Oil and Caltex 98 octane fuel,i had a similar problem to this many years ago with my Gasser (TXT 321) ,using BP (Ultimate) high octane unleaded and Synthetic oil,would blacken plugs servereley in a couple of hours then give a bit of a backfire then stop,i changed fuel brands,same oil and then had the same plug for the next 7 years! I am mixing the oil/fuel ratio at 110:1 as per book,90mls oil to a 10 litre container of fuel? Regards,digga.
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