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barfy

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Posts posted by barfy
 
 
  1. Does anyone have a photo of exactly where the rubber cushions fit between the bashplate and bottom of the engine?

    I’ve tried to fit them like the best I can make out from the pictures in the manual, but whenever I put the bashplate on the small one seems to slip around. I normally pull it out so that I don’t lose it during a trial.

    Cheers

  2. Not that happy using a strong Locktite on something that I will want to remove in the future.

    I once used it on disc bolts that kept coming lose. I rounded the holes in the allan bolts and ended taking the wheel to an old boy in the club who disassembled the wheel to remove the bolts from the hub. He said that you shouldn’t have to use Locktite if it’s tightened properly. He’s dead now so I wouldn’t know who to take the bike to to get the kick start removed if I use any stronger Locktite.

  3. What type of drill should I use to drill a hole in a Beta 80 kick start shaft?

    My son keeps losing the kick start bolt, thankfully we’ve found the kick start. I’ve tried Locktite 242, but it still shook off, so now I’m going to use a lock wire!!

    I started to drill a 1.5mm hole, but the drill broke. I bought two more drills from B&Q, but they’ve both gone blunt without making much more impression on the hole. I was going to order a tungsten carbide bit, but wanted to make sure that it will drill a hole in the shaft.

  4. Saw this post just after Christmas, but this was the first chance I had to reply. I weigh well the wrong side of 14 stone and a heavier spring was a very worthwhile investment. I got mine from Trials Enduro Direct.

  5. Had the same problem with a Pentax TLM260. I went to P.J. Motorcycle Engineering (you can find them on the net) who found a piston that fitted and bored, etc. to the correct size. From memory it was from something like a TZ Yamaha, but don't rely on my memory.

  6. Thanks for the link. That is exactly what I want, but they only do them in UK size 7 and I want UK 10 or EU45. Been looking on the net for them (now I know what to search for), but can’t find anyone else in the UK who do them. Found someone who do the Alpinestars Tech 2, but they seem to have a smooth (motocross) sole.

    Any ideas where else I can get them in other sizes?

  7. I've seen someone in the background of a photo wearing a kind of low trials boot, that goes just above the ankle. I keep wearing out walking boots chasing after my lad and setting out trials. I find wearing my trials boots don't suit running.

    Does anyone know who does these low type of boots and how much they cost?

    Many thanks

  8. If you are asking because your fuel pump won't fit into a Mitani tank then you will need modify the fuel pump bracket. There are a couple of older posts that might give you some leads on what needs to be done:

    http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/13178-flat-tanks/page__p__119839__hl__+fuel%20+pump#entry119839

    http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/14480-4rt-pump-mod/page__hl__%2Bfuel+%2Bpump

    Also there used to be instructions on how to modify the fuel pump on:

    http://www.montesa4rt.nl/

    but looks like the site is being re-constructed, so you might need to contact the owner. He did have some very good engineering sketches.

  9. I used to have a Pentax TLM 260, which was a bit more ‘competitive’ than the other TLMs. Parts were OK from Dave Silver (http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/) or CMS (http://www.cmsnl.com/) using the part number. They were surprisingly similar to other models.

    There is a Honda TLM240 manual on the Honda Trials website (http://www.honda-trials.com/_sgg/m8m4_1.htm).

    When I had the engine rebuilt the person who did the work discovered that many of the parts were the same as a Yamaha.

  10. Here are some more photos. My old laptop is a COMPAQ M700. All you should need is a laptop with Windows XP (or Windows 98) and a serial port.

    My laptop only has a serial port, so the programming tool plugs directly into the laptop. It doesn’t go through any converter into a USB port.

    connector.jpg

    In Windows 98 Device Manager I have a COM1 port listed. It doesn’t ‘pop up’ it’s just there it doesn’t matter if the programmer is plugged in or not. I’m sure that it is the same in Windows XP. I get the setting selecting the Properties > Port Settings as shown above.

    devmgr.jpg

  11. Been having some problems getting into Trials Central since I posted this reply.

    @dye29 the 38880-NN4-305 code that you quote is for the programming unit and not the software. The part number that I have printed on the CD is 38771-NLC-000. It also '07RTL250F FI Setting tool' this can be checked by selecting Help > About from the programming software

  12. Further to the mail above, here are some additional photos.

    It was blowing a gale and tipping it down this morning so I changed the maps in my PTB. Below are some additional pictures to help.

    Disconnect the fuel pump from under the tank:

    fuelpump.JPG

    Disconnect the condenser (2 way connector) and take the cap off the programming connector (4 way connector under the boot). Both are below the PTB:

    connectors.JPG

    Connect the programming unit to the two connectors:

    connected.JPG

    Connect the programming unit to the computer and make sure that the COM ports are set correctly (in my previous post). Then fire up the software, load a map, check the map is loaded by looking at the 3d graphs (little drop down below the Data Edit box) then go to the Setting Data Use drop down box:

    setting.jpg

    You need to select where you want to load the map into the PTB. It would seem by default it will load the same map into both modes (settings). Then select Data Write at the bottom of the screen and follow the instructions. Once successful you should have a confirmation message:

    okmapped.jpg

    Finally, you can change maps while riding the bike. Just bumbling around the garden and switching to the Mitani 280 map took me by surprise while on full lock!!

    You now know as much as me, so good luck.

    David

  13. Hi - I plan to put a 280 map into my PTB. I'll see if I can do it tomorrow (more chance if it's raining). While I'm doing it I'll take some photos and do some screen captures. The software that I'm using for the twin map PTB is called '07RTL250FKIT'.

    In the mean time I've taken the following screen captures.

    From menu Help > About:

    version.jpg

    From Device Manager > Ports (COM & LPT) > Communications Port (COM1) > Properties > Port Setting:

    comportsettings.jpg

  14. Hi,

    There is a lot of information about Montesa 4RT, including the maps and manuals on the following page:

    http://www.montesa4rt.nl/

    The site did used to have an English part, but it looks like they're doing a lot of updates so it's mainly in Dutch (I think). However, all of the manuals for programming the throttle body are in English. This might help with your trouble shooting and making sure that everything is connected properly.

    I never had much luck trying to use the HRC programming tool using a USB to serial converter on a newer laptop that didn't have a serial port. I ended up borrowing an old laptop from a friend and then buying one from Ebay that had Windows 95.

    Regards

    David

  15. Also interested in this post because I gave up trying to get a Keilhin PWK running on my TLR250 and RTL some time ago. I found this thread on Yahoo answers that lead me to believe that it was going to be a fruitless task.

    http://uk.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20091204023738AAGy7nG

    I just couldn’t get the midrange right and once it started to bog down in the midrange it lost the top end. About all I was happy with was tick over, so I went back to the original Keilhin PE. Put the nail in the coffin when I spoke to Allens performance who said that the PWK was primarily a 2-stroke carb and although I would be able to get it working on a 4-stroke there would have to be some compromises.

    Interested if you’ve got this to work cleanly throughout the rev range.

  16. Several weeks ago I took off the TLR250 clutch casing to respray it, but I’m stuck how it goes back on properly. There is a metal ‘finger’ that seems like it should engage on a ‘collar’ with a spring. This collar is on the kick-start shaft.

    Should the collar go between the case and finger or is it held closer to the engine by the finger?

    Where does the bit that sticks out on the collar go?

    Hope this makes sense, but I’ve attached pictures to help describe what I mean.

    picture1.jpg

    picture2.jpg

  17. Trying to reply on my iPhone. Back in the real world now.

    I think I remember Woody having some connection with the 'bolt on' type hangers. I'm sure if you drop him a line through here he'll be able to point you in the right direction.

 
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