guys

I recently made a chain tensioner blok from the green plastic Ertalon LFX which contains oil, in other words is self lubricating. So far it doesn't look so good, it wears faster than a standard "rubber" chaintensioner... But it's working conditions are ofcourse worse than the link bushes.

Maybe not, although I liked the way the engine respond better to the throttle due to the lighter flywheel. It starts fine on the points. I still hope they can solve my problem or send me a new one...

Damn! The Czech electronic ignition doesn't do its job. Had to go back to the points...

Thanks pschrauber, There's a light switch on the handle bar just left of the crossbar and the stoplight switch is just above the brake pedal. I heard someone say that indicators are not required in Belgium so I hope he's right and motorcycles don't have to be inspected before registration in Belgium.

Very nice movie in a beautiful country!

Thanks and yes, al new electrics

Well, here she is. Ready to race on friday evening (There are still a few things on my wish list like the front and rear (leak) suspension, a luminium sump guard, steel brake liners...)

I think for general use a 300 isn't so bad. For light enduro I think it's better than a 250 as it does not have to struggle so much at higher speeds. And for trials a 300 is more than enough but if you learn it on a 300, you'll will learn soon enough to go easy on the throttle ;-)

I've said it before: This oil is as good as ATF in regards to clutch drag and smooth clutch action and you don't have to worry if you've got the right kind of ATF oil... http://www.trialsuk.co.uk/products/gro-gear-extrem-75w

You might need some assistance when practicing

Looking good. Hope you can enjoy riding it soon! Mine should be ready tomorrow...

Have a look at Mountainbike (downhill) gear, very light, flexible and low profile... For instance this: http://sixsixone.com/bike/soft-shell-pads

The Devil's Contract? Yes. It comes with a free T-shirt.

I thought that was common knowledge?

What a tragic ending! I first assumed it was a road bike because of the saddle bags.

To improve the foot position on the RH brake pedal and to give the pedal a bit more leverage, I'm making a new longer brake pedal. I use steel to minimise the flex in the pedal:

There should be a brake-cable holder welded on your frame, about 5 inches above your RH footpeg. Then there should be, or you will have to make a brake-cable holder right above the swingarm spindle on the left side. Venhill makes brake cables for this conversion. Take a look at some pictures of Bultaco's and you will see what I mean. By the way, BultacoUK has some nice aluminium gear levers. They are better than the standard steel ones because they will bend instead of bending your gear-lever axle if you should hit something..

A bike thats a bit heavier is also more stable. + the power delivery is very smooth (Ossa's also) so better for a novice. I realy don't think a few kg's would make that much difference. I think any 250 is a good starter bike... I'm not talking about relyabilty, most people like their bike the best...

I had the Femsa unit so my new rotor weighs about 2,3 kg.

I agree that the standard dust covers look better but I prefer the protection that neopreen covers offer to the forks. I've tried the rubber 'harmonica' protectors as they where used in that time but they limited the travel of the forks. I'm now fabricating a new rear brake lever with a bit more leverage and waiting for the rear tire, so in a couple of days I will proudly present her to the public

I'm curious how the bushes stood the test of time and abuse... I think broze bushes or needle bearings with grease nippels (to lubricate but also to keep the dirt out) should last very long. If I wanted to improve the rear suspension bearings I would install grease nippels...