cord

Discovered that heat output is rev's related! If i'm pottering around doing trials type riding the grips are just nice and warm, however, yesterday i did a big long climb up boggy ground. I was in 3rd, wide open for a good 5 maybe 10 mins, had to turn the grips off about 3/4 way through, thought my hands were going to melt. Glad i used the headlight switch, means i can flick on/off with my thumb without having to move hand off the bars.

Had my first "cold" ride today. (It's not actually cold, maybe 8°C) but i did get both hands drenched within the first 20 minutes. Anyway, heated grips are absolutely amazing. I went with this kit from splat shop https://www.splatshop.co.uk/heated-grip-kit.html I binned of the resistor and switch for high/off/low And just wired it into my headlight wiiring instead of high beam. So now i just use the pre-existing switch on the handlebar. I rarely ever ride at night so thats no issue, but it's just the swap of 2 spade connectors to return headlight to normal.

Thanks, so headlight off, and connect it to the horn. Brliiant, easier than i thought!!

I'm fussy with gloves, and have tried the heatpacks to no avail. I get what your saying about clutch/brake finger, thats the 1 that struggles, am hoping a warm bar will be enough to defrost it. Are you being serious, i can really drive it from the horn wiring? I've ridden the 4ride in sub zero temps several times, and never had starting issues. It's used more for technical single track than trials type stuff.

Has anyone fitted heated grips to a 4ride (or a 4RT assuming they are the same) ? Splat shop do some sticky back heated elements that you then slip normal grips over the top, it says they consume 36W, will my 4 ride have enough power to drive them? And where am i best tapping into the wiring loom to take the feed?

cheers, looks like nothing has changed in a good few years.

Does anyhone know anything about the 2025 4ride? I have a '16 that i absolutely love, and fancy treating myself to a brand new one. A few UK dealers don't have any 2024's left in stock, and they are waiting for the '25 model. I've no idea what (if anything) has changed.

New filter fitted. Bike is an absolute dream to start now.

Yep, the gauze is housed in a plastic cylinder that clips (or not!) on to the base of the pump. It has simple fallen off. I’m going to mechanically fix it in place, or maybe epoxy bond. I’ll tackle that when my new filter arrives. I’ll also cut the old filter open to see just how much dirt it has caught.

Found this fuel pressure info on another thread. Pressure when starting 0.7 bar (without spark plug) with engine running 2.7 all the time, no matter which rpm But before i go any deeper, my fuel filter seems to have seen better days, and the pre-filter gauze had fallen off and was in bottom of the tank. I've got a new filter on it's way, i shall report back!

Unfortunately i dont have a manual, hence asking if anyone knew the correct pressure. And as far as i know it doesn't have a battery, ao i assume there is some sort of capacitor somehwere? I'm fine with mechanics, but electrickery is not my thing.

Cheers, I’ll have a look at that lot. Is there a procedure for checking fuel pressure? Or just simply T a pressure gauge in wherever I can? And any idea what it should be? Incidentally the bike runs perfect once it’s going.

Got a 2021 Combat works 250, and its really hard to start from cold. Once its hot, not problem, 1 or 2 kicks every time. I've read that i should be doing 3/4 slow kicks, then quarter throttle and kick it properley. I'm usually into about 20 kicks before it comes alive? It's got a brand new BPMR4A plug in (previously a 6 but same symptoms). Fuel is super unleaded with 30ml (170:1) of rock oil. Any ideas?

Has anyone changed sprocket size on their 4ride? Currently i have 10/41 (which i think is stock) Bike doesn't relly get used for "trials" riding, more for really technical trail and woods riding. I think i can sacrifice a touch of slow speed, to make the ride between sections a little more pleasant. I was thinking of changing to 11/41, but not really sure how big a real world effect 1 tooth at the front is. Also, i'd like a steel rear sprocket, but evertyhting i see for sale is aimed at 4RT and therefore weight is key and they are all aluminium.

Hi, can i get a copy please. cord1976@gmail.com Cheers

I've got a pair of Maxxis Trialmax on mine. Almost as much grip as Michelin x11's on rocks (certainly dry ones, not qiuite as good in the wet) more grip in soil/mud and so far have lasted easily twice what my last rear X11 did. Thoroughly recommended. Editted to add. I did have to glue the rear on tho, i noticed it was turning on the rim slightly, and being tubeless there is no rim lock.

I fit 1 litre in a round metal climbing style fuel can under the seat in mine, plus tools and a butty. The shifter is just the same as a stadard 4RT, I've often thought of buying the S3 lever kit, but never got round to it, i just use it as is.

at 80kg they are fine on a Dave Cooper style rack.

I've had mine for approx 2 years. Fuel range for me is about 50 miles, (and plenty room under the seat for another litre in a bottle, and tools, and a butty!) I use mine for a bit of trials riding, and technical trail riding. For trials, it a touch big, and a touch cumbersome, but i'm crap at trials so it's never going to be the bike the holds me back, just my lack of talent. I'd happily enter a trial on it. For trail riding i find it brilliant, but most of my "trail" riding is very illegal. Down footpaths, streams, through the woods etc,,,, It's amazing for that, it's small and nimble, you just aren't getting stuck anywhere. Tyres wise i swapped to Maxxis trialmax, the knobs are a touch wider spaced, and make for more grip in the mud, and less vague at speed. On the road she's happy at 45/50mph, which is plenty to find the next "section". High speed offroad is definitely not it's thing, the suspension is short travel, and not damped correctly for following your mates on their Enduro's, don't try, i have and it hurts!!! I have high level front mudguard on mine, it's quite clay based around me, and the standard trials front mudguard could get blocked. Gear lever is a long way from foot, but S3 make a kit to move it. I also have the S3 airfilter lid thing, definitely worth having, it makes filter changes a 2 minute job. Feel free to ask me any questions, i LOVE this bike and could chat about it all day.

Cheers everyone. Spoke to a mechanic who’s worked on them long term. He confirmed that late model 315 all the way to current will actually fit, with just a few very slight variations over the years. Still can’t find 1 for sale tho!!!

Thanks everyone. I strongly suspected there was no real change. I’ll do some more homework.

Does anyone know if 4rt swingarms are year specific? Or are all years interchangeable? Cheers.

I've got the Tunelab Engine RPM app on my iphone, and compared to the MOT testing hardware is consistantly within 20rpm. Well impressed!!!!!!

Cheers, been looking at this, looks like i'll give it a blast, i too got sick of pulling it to bits for a filter swap. I've been looking at the gearshift relocation kit as well.

I've seen 2 adverts for shops selling new 4Ride Enduro version. I've had a good nibble, but can't seem to find it on the Honda/Montesa website tho?? Adverts list the changes as, Enduro specific front tyre, high level front mudguard, vented airbox, new gear shifter. I've zoomed in on the pictures and it appears that the gear change now goes through a linkage which then exits behind the frame rail. This then connects to a gear lever which appears to pivot on the footpeg. I'm hoping this will be retro fittable to my 2017. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Montesa-4Ride-Enduro-Version-4-Ride-Green-Lane-Trails-Offroad-260cc/303173379230?hash=item46968aa49e:g:GgAAAOSwiFZc8TGw