2stroke4stroke
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Posts posted by 2stroke4stroke
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https://www.trialsuk.co.uk/Apico-Handlebar-Riser-Kit---Fatbar-28.6mm
I used these on my 4RT, I think they do a set for 7/8 as well.
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Edited by 2stroke4stroke
You need one that senses the pulses in the HT lead. The one pictured needs sight of a rotating flywheel. The small ones (matchbox size) from China last about a fortnight. I got one of these but it only lasted a few goes https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/draper-automotive-tachometer/
I do find the speed can vary during an event and it does rise when the fan comes on.
As a by the by, if you find it hard to adapt to the fast tickover you could lower the gearing. I went to 9 teeth on the front but that's a bit cruel to the chain so went up two teeth on the rear instead when replacement time came round and find that a good compromise on my 250 (I'm not one for using the clutch all the time). When I briefly rode a 260, although the gearing is the same as the standard 250, it felt to run a bit slower as if the gearing was lower - I can't explain that.
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Edited by 2stroke4stroke
11 hours ago, martinsyderob said:You can't leave it like that! Where can I find more out about this bike?
I only recall it being pictured, with some details, in the trials column of the Motor Cycle but can't remember hearing anything further of it, so can't say who rode it or how well (no doubt somebody can). Memory was stirred during discussion about the Emme which a pal had just seen in the Neckarsulm museum. Emme
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Edited by 2stroke4stroke
3 hours ago, Crazymac680 said:Thanks guys. I gave up on the top of piston to top of cylinder measurement. A face book user thinks that measurement was for a flat piston while mine is dome shaped.
Once I stopped trying to change gaskets, to chase that measurement. I installed everything stock and measured squish at 1.8mm. As I'd just spent the night researching squish. This seems like a safe distance to start with. Most of the research I did, stated that Between 1 at 2mm would be your tuning zone.
Under 1 would be dangerous as my piston expand up 0.7mm when hot.
It's a shame beta don't have a book measurement to remove any confusion.
Beta don't even have a book measurement for ignition timing, so are unlikely to see squish as an important piece of information.
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1 hour ago, rusty ken said:
I don't know my trials history particularly well, but understood that Greeves was one of the preffered trials bikes to be riding in the late 60's ( or was that just the publicity)
Pre 65 trials seems to have gone rhrough a series of fads over the last few years moving from pre units to Cubs, Bantums, James, and Triumph twins.
Is there a reason why Greeves appears to have largely dropped out of fashion and not been "modernised" like some of the other makes? There seem to be a few still being riden in the big events, but not being developed to the same extent as the bantums etc?
Does this mean they could be the next big thing, or was most of the development already delivered by the factory in the '60s?
Not so easy to modernise the steering head angle on a Greeves?
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The bead of a tyre can't be stretched - it can be permanently distorted if brutality is employed. So the answer to your question is, do the job properly and it can be done as often as you like. I always turn them but find the trailing edge never heals and stays rounded ? so turn once only, though I will admit to more than once on occasion. I did once use a Stanley knife to recut (ok, I know that's agin the rules) a crossply but it wasn't worth the effort.
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17 hours ago, motosolex said:
Hi FeetUpFun.
When timing my TY250, my dial indicator is too large and won’t function due to bikes’s frame with tank off.
I am thinking I’ll need to remove the head and make a gizmo-bracket to mount dial indicator (as in bike’s shop manual)
Any ideas on this?
Or do you know of a smaller dial indicator that will work without removing the head?
thanks
Do it once and mark the flywheel so you can use a strobe in future.
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4rt RPM idle tach
in Montesa
I don't think that's unusual.