iconic558

As a 51 year old rider new 'ish to the sport my advice would be to buy a later generation 250 2 stroke...by that I mean 1998'ish onwards...liquid cooled mono for a grand. They are all good, far better than most riders, easier to ride and plentiful. 250'S aren't a handful and in many circumstances they are more forgiving than a 200 125etc. If you decide its not for you or wish to change for newer or twinshock you will find it easy to sell on. I sold my Beta REV3 '02 recently for a grand in a few hours and could of sold it 20 times over. I suppose what I'm really saying is make it easy on yourself to get back into trials.

Cheers, I'll put them to obe side...may need them depending on Turkey consumption!

I've got a copy of the US (I think!) importers user manual that came with my Speedy, sort of real world set-up guide. It's not much, a few pages but does a decent job of describing some of the maintenance jobs and set up from actual useage. Quite amusing in places too. If anyone wants a copy I'll scan and post to site.....if I can work my new fangled printer/copier from hell...it means I may need to read the 'destructions' and for a man this will be the ultimate embarassment! Seasons greetings, see you at Butley and the Dabbers.

Would anyone know what the original handlebar rise would of been when these Speedies were sold new....just curious. cheers

Looked into my shock mounts and yes stiff as a pornstars....well you know the rest. Removed and greased the rubber bushes, spaced out the large washers with small spacing washers and action now much plusher. .....with result that I'm back on the 50lb springs! Free sag and 'race' sag spot on. Took her for a ride today and riding over tractor tyres she is close but not botttoming out. thanks for the great tips, help and advice. PS pair of 3 hour 40lb/in springs going tweet!

Cheers guys, thanks for the advice

Thanks stephen

Whoops....forgot to add, I have raised my forks in the yokes around 15mm. I may have another 5mm left before interference with handlebar bottoms. cheers guys

Hi guys, bit of back ground first... now I'm actually doing some trials with my SWM TL320 I have been playing with suspension. But coming from enduro's I've come to the conclusion that I may be out of my water a little? She has Magicals springs up front and Sammy Miller gassers up the blunt end. When she came to me the front and rear were set up for a erm' heavier rider (well built Steve, all muscle!) with 50lbs/in rear springs and 135mm of preload in the front springs, I weigh 11 stone. I had very little front and rear sag. First trial I just rode her as was. She rode very high too, I could of rolled over a 45 gallon drum without scraping the bashplate! Since the first trials I've reduced the front preload spacers by 25mm and this gives me around 2" front sag and a very nice progressive front end. The rear springs were on the middle pre-load position and I dropped this to the lowest and got a little bit of sag but still felt hard and lifeless compared to my Beta REV3 which felt lovely, compliant, progressive and soft. I also had an issue with the shocks 'binding' on the shock top mount due to powder coating and this made the action stiff too, removing the powder coat made them a lot better....not sure why as the movement should be on the rubber bush shouldn't it? I bought a pair of SM 40lb/in springs and set the sag to around 1/3 rear end travel (3rd stop on preload) using the MK eyeball and a cable tie method, felt lovely, plush and soft. I left tell-tale cable ties on the front and rear. Bouncing her up and down as hard as I could in my unit I could get the rear end to be around 3/4" off the shock bump stop and thought thats fine. Did a trial yesterday and she felt much better all round, front much more planted, rear end working, still a bugger on climbs though with a light front end....most of which could be my poor body positioning. The trial wasn't very difficult per se but a good mix of hard/soft climbs and drops. During the lunch brake and I looked at my 'tell tail' cable ties and the rear end was up to the bump stop and the front was high too but not 'blown-thru', all of which alarmed me somewhat...I hadn't been jumping or getting air! Got home and found the rear springs had sort of 'run themselves in' and now I had to raise to top setting on preload to get my 1/3 total movement sag, this is LOT of pre-load...I think, but if it's adjustable why not use it? Now, in the above I'm assumed quite a lot, taken a few guesses too so I would like to ask if I'm 'getting there' or 'out to lunch' on twinshock suspension. So my questions are: 1/ If I'm using all my suspension movement this could be a good thing....its there to be used...one could assume? 2/ Should twinshock trials bikes be very soft like my old Beta REV3, she felt lovely to me and bouncing her up and down helped me balance...in between putting my feet down 3/ Is a softer spring with more preload worse than a harder spring with a lot less preload?....I know that the spring rate isn't changed by preload on a straight rate spring but the SM springs look very progressive, so I could be getting a harsher ride with the softer springs than the hard springs, as I'm getting off the softer part of the spring onto the stiffer part..are you with me? 4/ The shocks on a SWM are slanted over (to me) and this would reduce the spring rate of the rear spring...but they aren't slanted over like a Gripper! I have two bottom mount positions on my SWM swing arm and I've have been using the mounts nearer the end of the bike to get the ride height down a little by introducing a tad more slant..only makes 1/2" difference but all helps....Martin 'SWM' M tells me that the front mount is the std position and the rear mounts were for when the pillion mounts were used thereby giving a little room for the rear shocks but I thought I'd experiment...it was all I could do to drop my trans oil in my Beta, aren't twin shocks addictive Seasons greeting and thanks for any help

Thanks Martin

Was just the linings needing bedding in....ran her around dragging the brake for 10 mins (thats quite some time to be doing nothing else!) and works 100% now...can lock her on dry tarmac sitting down but progressive too, just as good as any rear disc Ive had.

Anyone know what the difference is between the standard handlebar and the Dougie Lampkin bend version? ....were the Lampkin bend handlebars always a dark metallic grey? thanks as always

Did a trial yesterday...and typically there were three Beamish's riding!....ya know bit like buses... ...one was a MK1 in amazing condition and looked stunning in silver and red , one yellow/black tank and one all yellow. I entered into the twinshock ritual of trying everyones clutch pull and even though one had an Apico Easy Clutch the std mk1 was the best...could be down to maintainace and wear and tear? I had a 76' GT250A and that had a woeful clutch action ended up being ever so slightly bent clutch pushrods and I do mean slightly!

I've no idea...anyone know?

...because I have always had a real softspot for them, always found them a good looking bike , have always liked Suzuki engineering and owned more than a few zooks...I like to add one to my fleet, look good sitting beside my GSXR-750WN. ...but looking at prices over the last few months tbey seem to be bit of a bargain compared to other twinshocks....what dont I know? There always used to be a fair few doing the rounds in Kent back the day...Cliffe Marshes etc.

My SWM has a working decompresser, so far I've been using it as an aid when kicking starting her by engaging whilst kicking thereby making life much easier, also I kick her thru whilst operating the decompressor to prime her when cold, and lastly to stop her. Now I'm fairly sure the decompressor is also there to help on hill decents but I'm not sure why, when and how to use, be grateful for advice. cheers as always for any help

Ran the bike around yesterday in my woods and its great, lovely super grunty engine that will plonk along at incredibly low revs. Brakes are good now they have bedded in and set up with help from this forum. She's rides tight, light and bright, quick steering but stable too, Starts first kick after priming her on the decompressor. She doesnt feel her 34 years old. Rear suspension is very stiff indeed though after my Beta REV3. She has Sammy Miller gas shocks on 50lb springs which may need changing to 40lb springs or less! Clutch is light but to erradicate all drag Ive no adjustment left on my cable....whats the form on setting up the clutch adjuster screw and should it have a locknut? Mine feels like its an interference thread like..erm a Ford Essex/Endura Ka engine tappet adjuster?

Yup thats me....but how did they know?

Gaunaco is a peruvian laama type animal, but what does the TL NW mean in the name?

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=261558150948&alt=web perfect fit!

Thanks for that...nice fittings!

yes, this is how SWM built them originally and many thanks for the link, but for me I like to use an allen fittings where ever I can as it's less tools to carry around in my bum bag, or erm, fanny pack.

Doh!...good point! Cheers

My SWM's drum brakes have my attention at the moment and searching for improvements to drum brakes came across a few references to using 2 pack paint hardener on the brake linings to 'pep' them up. These threads were from afew years back....and not posted April 1st. Seems the linings were lightly sanded down then 2k hardener was painted onto the linings, left to dry for a day, then sanded down again, refitted and hey presto (shazam may work too?) improved brakes....although why this should work no one knew? Anyone doing this these days? (Obviously no substitute for properly maintained brakes I will add...just curious)

Thanks for the tips guys