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charlie chitlins

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Posts posted by charlie chitlins
 
 
  1. You're going to have to explain the problem better.

    What year is the bike?

    Does it go into gear with the engine off, if you rock the bike fore and aft a bit?

    Does it seem to click into gear but nothing happens?

    Can you see the clutch arm on the engine moving when you squeeze the clutch?

    The way you asked the question is like, "My car isn't working right...how much do you think it will cost to fix it?"

     

     

  2. 3 hours ago, Matt185 said:

    This information is really useful to riders new to trials such as myself.Presumably any tools and spares that are carried to in a well padded bum bag ?.

    Does anyone carry a spare clutch lever or is that a bit OTT ?

    Modern levers all seem to break in the same place, leaving a just-right amount for 1-finger operation.

  3. If they're allens, get a drill bit that just fits in the stripped holes...or even a bit bigger...put it in a vise with about 1/4-1/2" protruding and snap the top off with a sharp blow with a hammer.

    Now chuck it in a drill, tighten it real good and run it backwards.

    Often the rough end will walk the bolts out.

    If that doesn't work, stack 2 cutoff wheels on a dremel and cut a slot for a flat screwdriver.

    If THAT doesn't work...allens might be easy to strip, but they have their own pilot hole!

    Drill it and use a screw extractor.

     

  4. Nice work!

    Did you change the neck angle? Move the pegs?

    I'd like to see a list of modifications.

    I recently did a bunch of work on a TS250 of about the same vintage and it was crazy fast! A dirt slinging wheelie machine.

    It would have needed some engine mods to make it a trials engine!!

    But then again...my Scorpa is powered by a YZ250...

  5. 3 hours ago, cangy1000 said:

    Ive looped out the bank angle sensor, fuel pump and fan is running ok.

    I guess I need to read up on the throttle stop, sure I've come across a thread on hear on the subject.   

    Throttle stop?

    I think you could work on that forever and not get anywhere if you have no spark.

  6. On 10/26/2020 at 4:50 AM, collyolly said:

    Well there are two points to consider, first is the chain to sprocket intersection, over here in the U.K. it’s mandatory to have the lower chain run entry point covered. This is usually done by the manufacturers with a simple plastic ‘ sharks fin’ just look at how most bikes are covered. The second concern which really caught my attention was the size of the cut outs in the sprocket, as they go past the swingarm it’s possibly creating a guillotine action. Simply cover this sprocket face with a suitable thick plastic disc as per F.I.M. sprockets.
    Whatever type of bike, if the throttle twist grip is buried in the ground as youngster falls off that wheel will keep turning and it’s not just the rider that’s in danger its mums and dads rushing to help.

    I was running a trial a couple of years ago and a youngster turned up with an electric bike with the chain guards removed, I said to dad ‘ I am sorry he can’t have a ride today’ dads response was ‘everyone takes them off, what’s the problem ?‘ I explained the reasons, also that I would be held personally responsible if his lad injured himself. One unhappy lad but next time out the guards were back on.

    Good call on the sprocket. I have a clapped out one to use as a template.

  7. 14 hours ago, collyolly said:

    Looks very nice, don’t want to be too negative but I would do something about keeping the lads fingers / hand out of that rear sprocket, everyone falls off and there’s little control about where a flailing digit ends up when you don’t see the danger.

    Agreed!!

    I've been thinking about this.

    I bought a bike from a kid who lost half a finger just loading his bike.

    Trying to imagine what to do without a fabrication shop or injection molding facility!

    I was considering running the chain through PVC pipe...or something.

    I suppose where the chain meets the sprocket on the bottom is where fingers would be likely to get drawn in.

    I used to make sprocket and disk guards by cutting up plastic cutting boards... I could probably work something out.

    I'm open to suggestions.

    His cheapie Walmart Razor electric bike has a fully enclosed chain.

    I guess they're more worried about liability.

  8. Just bought one for the lad...the model designation is 25, but, I've never even seen a 25cc engine...maybe in a weed whacker. 

    I guess it's a 50.

    Sweet little bike, but I'm guessing they are very rare. I hope it never needs parts.

    Anybody know anything about them?

    IMG_20200919_201853.jpg

  9. The 80 was snapped up immediately, so the choice has been made for me.

    I have also found that most kids have no problem with a bike that is too small...even WAY too small.

    They like the feeling of being able to toss it around.

    All my sons and their friends would always gravitate toward the smallest bicycle in the pile.

    I like the idea ofmthe nsmaller bike.

  10. On 1/4/2020 at 9:38 AM, nigel dabster said:

    what would be the advantages of this as a beginner bike as opposed to an established brand 1 year old?

    Financially obviously a current brand is a better bet, so other reasons?

    Hi, Nige.

    I've always thought a small 4T would be great for beginner kids. Easy throttle hit, grunty for climbing, less likely to stall, good engine braking for downhills...

    • Like 2
  11. There sure are a lot of cheap xr70s etc out there. Anybody go old school and adapt one for a beginner trialer?

    It seems to me like the venerably TY80 wasn't far from a trail bike.

    I'm a pretty good welder so I'm not afraid to move pegs or even change neck angle.

    Just looking to give an 8-year-old a bit of a feeling of a trials bike on a budget.

    It seems to me a grunty 4 stroke would be a good introduction.

  12. On 5/2/2017 at 7:58 PM, jacob429 said:

    Hey mcman,

    I'm new to trials and got my first bike back in February, so I'm learning myself. I found it easiest to learn the timing with flat ground bunny hops. I crouch into the pegs as I get on the throttle, then jump as I get off the throttle and pop the clutch, allowing the flywheel energy to propel the bike evenly off the ground. If the bike wheelies, it means you didn't get off the throttle soon enough. I'm on and off the throttle before the back tire even leaves the ground. I've seen footage of trials schools where instructors teach this method as well.

     

    Someone was asking me to try to get better shots of my hands doing this. This was the most recent video I recorded to try to show my timing. It may help. Spend your next session or two just doing flat ground bunny hops and you'll get the timing down. I'm already bottoming my too-soft suspension so if I want more lift I just give a bigger pop of the clutch at higher revs to dump all that stored energy instantly.

     

    Excellent for a beginner! 

    That's talent.

  13. On 12/3/2019 at 8:57 AM, BrettD said:

    Good girl ya got there! 
    My wife was looking at me funny then said - well its your office, you can do what you want. 

    I had ACL, MCL, Meniscus and quad surgery a couple years ago, knee work is tough! I need to have both meniscus' worked on again. I have/had permanent sutures in my my left knee and tore them out a few months ago and am putting it off at the moment. 

     

    Best of luck with recovery!! 

    Thanks! My meniscus was removed 40 years ago. That's how they did it back then!

    • Haha 1
  14. Hadn't checked in for awhile.

    Thanks for the info.

    My clutch had ATF in it.

    I remember from back when I was working on GG, Sherco and Scorpa regularly, we were having clutch material getting un-bonded from the plates, and it was always bikes with ATF.

  15. I'm recovering from a knee replacement.

    In a tongue-in-cheek way, I said to Mama Chitlins, " I may bring the bike in the house for balance practice...y'know...as physical therapy."

    And a few days ago, something came up about my recovery and she calmly said to a friend, "Yeah... we're considering bringing Charlie's trials bike inside for the winter so he can practice balance and strengthen his leg."

    Yup... I'm bragging.

    I married RIGHT......this time ;)

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  16. A penetrating oil that follows heat helps.

    I used Kroil.

    Several heating/cooling cycles helps, so does tapping sharply and repeatedly with a hammer to help loosen the interface and help the oil penetrate.

    Dissimilar metals make a small electrical charge that promotes oxidation and they virtually weld themselves together.

    I would say that 10-15 heating/cooling cycles would not be unheard of. 

    That's a hostile environment.

    Put the new one in with high temp anti-seize.

    • Thanks 1
 
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