d2w

Any chance you're confusing the dust wiper with the fork seal? I have yet to replace my fork seal but I did have to remove the wiper. The wiper is exterior to the fork lower while the seal is internal to it. For that reason I think you'll need a fork seal driver. But that being said one can usually make a seal driver pretty easily; use a length of suitably sized plastic tubing (say, PVC irrigation piping).

My son started with an OSET 16.0, progressed to a GG TXT Boy 50 (which had a semi-automatic clutch and 2-speed gearbox) and now rides a GG TXT 80 Cadet. The Cadet is a 3/4 sized bike with full transmission and clutch. I don't now the wheel sizes from memory but perhaps 17" rear/19" front? The Cadet has a 3rd party motor (Morezzelli?) which has its origins with mopeds and so I find the (limited) power delivery somewhat peaky. I've mod'ed the carb, added a flywheel weight, and lowered the gearing to make it more rideable. I'd say the Cadet is an entry level bike, but there is a more competitive model called the Rookie (or perhaps I've got those designations reversed?). I believe the higher-end model has better suspension components and a better cast/manufactured cylinder. There may be many other differences. The bike is very easy to start and the quality seems good. My model is a 2007.

Hello, I have a 2008 TXT 300 Pro. I was recently fitting a flywheel weight and as a final test for the cover clearance I pulled the plug and operated the kickstarter to rotate the crank. The feel of where the kickstarter disengaged concerned me. With apologies to those too young to know how to read an analogue clock ... When looking at the bike, the kickstarter starts at 1PM and travels to 11PM with no resistance. Resistance is then felt from 11PM to 8PM as the engine is cranked. But what concerns me is that there is no resistance from 8PM to approx 7PM when it hits the footpeg. Is this no resistance in the last bit of the stroke to be expected? Or does this indicate that the inner workings are somehow misaligned (say a tooth off in their engagement)? Note that I'm not having any starting issues (once I learned the "start-in-gear-and-roll-back-with-clutch-in" trick), and I don't hear anything amiss. But it just seems odd to me that the mechanism permits one to drive the lever into the footpeg at full force. And it seems to be "wasting" a good bit of energy. Thank you for your insight. Dale

At about the 2:19 point in the video the rider goes backwards for an extended period; is he just rolling backwards or does this bike have an actual reverse? Clearly being an electric bike a reverse gear is just a reversal of polarity to the motor. Interesting.

I believe I read somewhere that the footpeg is intentionally used as a stop for the kickstarter, and that it limits the possible rotation of an internal (I believe it's like a "half" (?)) gear. If the kickstart lever is positioned too far forward the internal gear can be rotated too much before the lever stops on the peg, and this will damage the gear and/or the mechanism. So, in theory, wider pegs which interfere with the kickstart lever sooner should better protect the starter mechanism. But, hey, I'm just new to this.

I've used a similar product from Loctite; #620 Bearing Retainer. It's a "glue" for cylindrical surfaces. One will need to heat it slightly with a torch to loosen it. I've used it on my gear lever.

Not trying to take this off-topic, but after reading a thread about possible future directions for trials bikes, could there be room for a hybrid trials bike? Use an electric motor to provide high torque instantaneously and with an effective infinite transmission, and a gas/petrol engine run at a constant/optimal rate to charge a battery. The battery would be required to deliver the high currents momentarily required by the motor when under extreme load. My son's OSET was pretty amazing, but when the juice was gone I pushed. Having an on-bike battery charger would have been fantastic. It's pretty hard to beat the amount of energy in a litre of fuel, and it's convenience. Having the two systems combined into one bike sounds appealing. But I guess the down side is that you now have the weight/volume penalty of a generator and battery. But then there would be the savings of no transmission. Your thoughts, please. Dale

Been teaching my son to ride, starting on an OSET Spyder 16, and then a TXT 50 Boy, and now a TXT 80 Cadet. I used to following him in the hills here in Summerland, B.C., Canada on my GG EC300. I now have a 2008 TXT 300 Pro for my aging and "bigger" body. It's been a blast learning the basics; slower is more fun. Keen on linking up with others here in the sunny Okanagan. Cheers. Dale.

Here's a low-cost solution: put a tee into your gas line after the peacock, and then run a clear piece of fuel line back up to above the upper most part of the tank. The level in the line will be that of the tank. Funny how the technology of pressure never changes.

Hi, I thought I'd pass on my experience with modifying my son's 2006 Txt 50 Boy for a left-hand rear brake. The Boy comes with an auto-clutch as well as conventional left-hand manual clutch and right-foot rear brake controls. My son was used to the controls of his OSET which had a left-hand rear brake and no foot brake. And I have a Rekluse auto-clutch on my GG EC300 with a left-hand rear brake (and no foot brake) and I absolutely love the feeling and control, so it was inevitable that I'd mod the Boy similarly. I'm happy to report that the modification is very very easy; simply build a hose which connects the left-hand master cylinder to the rear brake slave, and remove the OEM equip that's no longer used (clutch hose, brake hose, brake master cylinder, brake reservoir, brake pedal). You'll need a M10x1 bolt to block-off the now unused clutch input. I choose to leave the clutch pushrod in place. My parts cost was $90 CDN and it required a Saturday morning. Both the clutch reservoir/lever and the rear brake use DOT 4 brake fluid so there's no issue of compromising seal integrity. It did take a bit of effort to bleed the system; I used a brake bleeding tool called a Mighty-Vac. Once the system is bleed and the pads rebedded the left-hand lever provides great control and is more than adequate to lock-up the rear wheel when required. Basically the volumes of the master and slave cylinders seem well matched. I do plan to eventually get Evan back to using a conventional right-foot rear brake and clutch, but for now the new mod is a more natural progression from his OSET. Note that Evan rides the bike more like an enduro and is not (yet) trying to loft the front wheel over obstacles so he can get by without the clutch override. So far the Boy and the boy have been great! Regards. Dale

Hello, This is my first post to this forum after purchasing a 2006 Gas Gas TXT 50 Boy for my 7-year old son Evan. The Boy was exactly what I was looking for in terms of a motorcycle after Evan outgrew his OSET 36V. We live in central B.C. Canada and can literally ride into the hills from our garage. I recreationally ride a Gas Gas EC300 Enduro, but I prefer to follow Evan while riding my mountain bike. I have no experience with trials but the elegance has always fascinated me. There appears to be a fairly healthy and active trials community based here in the Okanagan under the guidance of Dave Rhodes, and in B.C. in general. I love to 'tinker' with bikes and thought I would make others aware of some very basic changes I've made to the Boy, as well as ask some questions and make some comments. 1) I extended the crankcase breather hose and rerouted it from the skid plate to the headstay; having the hose low down increases the likelihood that water will be sucked into the crank. The original oil appeared milky (as if mixed with water) and I'm hoping that was the source of the water rather than a compromised water-pump seal. 2) I'm going to 'offer up' a Duro 3.00x14 rear tire. This is a slightly more aggressive 'knobby-like' tire than the Vee Rubber 2.75x14 which is currently fitted. In the Okanagan the terrain is loose rock and sand, and I'm hoping that the Duro will hook-up better. The Gas Gas site indicates that 2012 Boys are fitted with a Michelin 3.00x14 Trials, but Michelin USA is completely unaware of this tire. Is that tire available in Europe? 3) I fitted an in-line fuel filter. 4) What is the capacity of the fuel tank? All the doc and Google searches I try come up with 0.79 (US) gallons (or 3 litres) but for the life of me I can only get 2 litres into the tank. 5) I fitted some Acerbis Uniko ATV handguards on the bike. These handguards are brilliant in that they mount on only the bar ends and work with the narrower bars of the Boy (i.e., there is no inner mount). The guards greatly protect Evan from brush and save the bars, grips, and levers when he inevitably drops the bike. 6) I managed to track down a 70cc upgrade kit from Hebo (HR4000121N) at SIP in Germany. Hebo no longer makes hardware and has sold the stock (and tooling) to some other company. I have yet to install the kit but the quality appears very high and is very complete (with all O-rings, etc) included. 7) As per other posts, I modified the airbox (by removing the restrictor and opening the lid). This leaned the mixture and the plug is now a perfect chocolate. 8) I'm frustrated that there appears to be no Service/Shop Manual for this bike; I would dearly love to have a list of recommended torque values for the various fasteners. My solution is to mark bolts, back them off, and then use my torque wrench to get the bolts back into position and note the setting. I also use Blue Loctite. 9) I was successful in purchasing from Rising Sun Imports in the USA a printout of the TXT 50 parts fiche; this document has 'exploded views' of the bike components and the Gas Gas part numbers. I'm very happy with the bike and its quality of build and state of repair. And best of all Evan loves the bike too! Dale