d2w

Well done. Yes, when one looks at your first photo of the stem nut, it's obvious that it's upside down. "Experience: it gives the test first and the lesson afterwards". Oh ... one more thing to consider, when tightening the top nut, ensure that your fork tube pinch bolts on the upper yoke are completely slack (as the top yoke needs to be able to move downwards onto the bearing load nut). And then tighten those bolts once you've torqued the top nut.

My understanding is that the top nut threads onto the spindle and draws the top yoke to the spindle nut (?). If the top nut is bottoming out before it engages the yoke, it seems that your only recourse is to remove some material from the top nut, or shim the gap between the top nut flange and the yoke (with some large washers perhaps). I can't recall what the suggested torque is for the top nut, but my concern would be that you may not engage sufficient threads on the spindle if the spindle isn't protruding sufficiently. Is your top tapered bearing race driven sufficiently down into the steering head/frame (i.e., what would be immediately under the opaque nylon dust cap)? I think the race should be flush with the frame.

I'm not too sure of this - and my intention is not to spread mis-information - but I've heard that as Gas Gas was experiencing their many disruptions towards the end, bikes were often put together with what parts they had on hand. As a result, parts for a specific bike may now be difficult to source as all were consumed during production. That being said, since GG are essentially unchanged (in broad terms), it may be possible to find older parts to fit a newer bike. I guess I'm "fortunate" in that all of my GGs are 2008's and there are lots of parts and broken bikes available. So ... I'd carefully consider parts availability if thinking of buying a newer GG. But I do love the marque.

Ted, thanks for the information, and I'm happy to hear that you seem to have it sorted. But what prompted you to have to replace the bearings and in such numbers? Was the bike run without oil? Or poor oil? Or submerged in water and then ignored? Or it a simple case of wear and maintenance? And how does one tell if inner bearings need replacement? I have yet to open the cases of my two 2008 GGs. Or is it a case that all is fine until it isn't?

Hopefully this will add to your confidence. Full credit to Jim Snell. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gnLY1IrMvBM

Those bearings with a provided seal look interesting. I have no experience with them, but I'd venture that you're correct and that the o-ring isn't applicable as the space the o-ring used to engage is now covered by the seal. As for the washer, it *may* be necessary if you find that if you were to use only the seal you "run out" of thread when tightening the stem nut when tensioning the bearings. If the seal and the original washer are the same thickness then I'd think you're good to go.

Yup, it's time to open it up. Do be aware that for an initial inspection you can keep the coolant system intact (i.e., you can remove the water pump and clutch cover as a unit without first draining the coolant), and if you lay your bike on it's left side you can remove the clutch cover without first draining the oil. Jim Snell has a video on servicing the PRO clutch and it discusses these simplifications (as well as talks about a shim on the kick-starter shaft). It's all good stuff.

Happy to hear that it's almost sort for you. Here's two other "long shot" items to verify; do verify that your tank breather/one-way valve is working correctly and allowing air into the tank. Also, verify that the carb vent lines are allowing the fuel in the bowl to be pressurized to atmospheric. Plugged lines/hoses can be a bitch to track down.

You must use some serious yeast if you need to secure the corks with a 6 tonne press. Your uncorking parties must be interesting.

And they`re good to have if you want to reacquaint yourself with friends who need a press (often to press out their steering stems).

There are plenty of posts here about the starting procedure which is REQUIRED with GGs. Don't just try and try like it's a dirt bike as you'll frustrate yourself and likely break the internal starter mechanism. Verify that the choke is ON if it's cold. Second gear. Roll back until it stops (at the top of the stroke). Clutch in. Foot on lever. Push back until slight resistance is felt. Now, kick firmly and through until it stops at the footpeg. No throttle if the choke was on, but a little throttle if you were starting from warm/hot and the choke was off (as opening the throttle defeats the choke). If it doesn't start then repeat the entire procedure, especially the roll-back to position the piston. Good luck.

Looking good. Attempt to tap the wheel spacers out from the opposite side using a drift (i.e., through the axle shaft channel). I fall a lot and so I've done well to wrap the header pipe with heat shield/exhaust weave so that I don't melt my pants and/or burn my leg; it can get stinking hot.

You might be able to exploit the fact that the splined shaft is steel and the kick starter housing is aluminum, so the two different metals will have different rates of expansion. Use a heat source (propane torch, electric heat gun) to heat the kick starter housing. That may help to break any corrosion. Or it may be that the splines contain a thread-lock (which will be softened by the heat as well). Also gently tap the housing with a small metal hammer to try to break any corrosion. As a last resort a small bearing puller might be fitted to pull the housing against the shaft. Just take it easy on your actions; no welding torches and sledge hammers! ?

You should not have to tighten the band clamp/jubilee clip so that the boot has to distort and fold in on itself in order to form the seal .There needs to be a rubber/plastic spacer which mates the OD of the carb inlet to the ID of the airbox boot.(and that's the part you circled in yellow).

Yes, it's clearly sheared; it wasn't obvious from the first photo. . Is there any possibility to get a "bite" on it using a sheet metal screw with a small O/D? Could you jam it in place well enough to drill it out? Fortunately the tube metal is soft and so I wouldn't be overly concerned if small pieces fell into the tranny. Still, I'd flush the system afterwards. I've heard of riders using diesel to flush debris out of engines as it's less viscous than oil. He's another "far-out: idea; lay the bike on its left side so that the piece is backed by the tranny oil. Could you somehow fashion a vacuum to draw-out the piece? Maybe use a large medical syringe connected to a rubber cup which makes the seal? Or just try a standard Shop-Vac pressed to the case. Hopefully the draw of the oil will pull the piece out as well.

Yes, like lineaway, I question if there's another piece? From the photo it appear that the "broken" end is tapered as it should be. And it doesn't appear that the elbow material is sheared. I'd think it'd be very difficult for a big, slow moving chain to cut such a soft and thin piping that cleanly. Can we see a photo of the "broken" end? Your elbow pipe may have just pulled out as it's only a weak press-fit.

I suspect your adjust clutch is something like this: https://www.splatshop.co.uk/xiu-rdi-adjustable-spring-clutch-support-plate-ossa.html If so, huski is (mostly) correct. You actually remove the clutch spring retaining ring, and then rotate it by one or two mounting positions, and then re-secure. What you're doing is changing the preload on the clutch spring. And, yes, you can perform this change without draining any fluids; lay the bike on its side to retain the oil, and there's no reason to drain/remove/separate the water pump as it can stay with the clutch cover. Jim Snell has a good video on how to access the clutch on a PRO.

Huh? Your trials bike has a horn? Well that's a new one for me. As for the shortened air box boot; yes, it can be an issue, but the solution is relatively simple to realize. Loosen all the band clamps and position the carburetor out of the way. Then use a heat source (like a heat gun or a hair drier) to heat the air box boot until it becomes soft and pliable. Heat evenly. Then push the carb fully into the boot and secure with the clamp. Then push the carb into the reed cage and secure with a clamp; the boot will stretch. Finally let the assembly cool and your boot should now retain its elongated state. You definitely want to maximize the reed/carb/boot engagement to minimize the chance of dirt getting in via those connections.

A nice video from Jim Snell:

Since you asked for ideas , any chance the fan is stuck "on" and you're hearing that? It's unusual for a low-power electrical component to make noise. I could believe that an electro-mechanical device (say, a relay or a fan) could make a "clicking" noise. There's likely a thermostat in the radiator, but that's an electro-mechanical transducer; I don't know if it could be energized to produce a sound, but it may be possible if things are really bolloxed.

Hello, Does anyone have that referenced file https://nanopdf.com/download/protechnicalbulletinusajuly222013_pdf as an actual simple pdf which can be downloaded and printed WITHOUT having to agree to all of their damn terms and conditions and browser home page redirects and add-ons and ....? I would just like to have the bloody file. I'm sure Jim Snell wrote that info, so I don't see why I have to support nanopdf for his hard work.I read the info and it's very good, I would just like to have a copy for my own reference. Thanks.

I use 550ml of Shell Rotella 10W30 semi-synthetic diesel oil in the gearbox of my 2008 GG TXTs (one mine, one my son's). I have had no issues and am happy with its performance. I believe that 30W >engine< oil is equivalent to about 75W >gear< oil, so be mindful of the type of oil you're using. And, yes, I have heard of numerous riders using ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) with good success as well. My philosophy has been to use an oil that's readily available and reasonable in cost, and then change it relatively frequently. So far, so good.

Happy to hear that you got your clutch sorted. For completeness, which clutch plates did you buy, and from where did you buy them? Thanks.

Strongly suggest that you pull the swingarm and inspect and grease all of the associated bearings; they hang in the muck and can be ugly if the bike was put away wet before it was sold to you.

Welcome. I'd suggest that you find some way to secure the fan (like you suggested, retapped screws or bolts & nuts or zip-ties). The fan housing can be removed from the rad (once you get the entire assembly out from the frame. Dunno about starting your newer 2017, but the procedure for my older 2008 is: clutch in, find second gear, clutch out, roll backwards (to find TDC), clutch in, press lightly on the kick starter until slight resistance is felt (this is the point the internal starter "Bart Simpson" gear has engaged the starter gear on the crank), and then kick firmly. Might require a slight twist of the throttle when kicking (when the choke is off). Don't twist the throttle if the choke is on as you defeat the choke. DO NOT fan the kick starter repeatedly like one often does on an enduro. And it's critical to ease the kick starter gear into the crank starter gear else you risk internal damage. And if it doesn't spark you need to redo the procedure. Some people hate the GG for this starting difficulty, but I've never had issues once I follow this procedure. I highly recommend the fork guards from Jack's Cycles; they're thick and cover the lower and upper components of the forks. They'll save you their cost after the first nasty drop in rocks. I run Opti Oil at 80:1 but no issue at 100:1. My understanding is that the crank case/clutch oil is what lubes the main bearings and so the premix oil ratio isn't quite so critical. As for crank oil, I use Shell Rotella 10W30 Semi-synthetic diesel oil; it's readily available, low cost, and works well for me with no clutch issues which I can discern. And there's lots of good trials and GG info on the ADVRider/trials forum as well. Dale