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  1. You’d expect if it was a batch of bad CDI’s there’d be some form of communication for this to the importers and all replacement CDI’s should be fit for use. But to have three fail seems more than bad luck. I would be checking that the bike has a good earth and that all other electrical connections are clean and well secured. After this you could then check the output current and voltage of the regulator with a meter to ensure that this is providing the expected. Another thing to check would be that the CDI isn’t being exposed to excess heat from the engine as this could effect the CDI. Understand it’s limited for where it can be located but some form of heat reflective tape could help.
  2. I've had numerous Gassers, Sherco', Beta' over the years (Rev 3 and Evo's) and a Vertigo. Currently on a 2021 Factory Sherco and it is lovely, incredibly light and responsive with fantastic suspension. I found all bikes to be the same as I upgraded over the years to be fair. In my opinion though and from my own experience I would say that the Beta's are the most reliable in terms of engine and gearbox. I've had electrical failures on all brands of bikes, but the Sherco' in particular seem to begin to rattle a little sooner in comparison to others, I've noticed this from seeing and hearing the second hand bikes that mates have owned and at events. But this comes down to who has owned it and if the bike has been looked after, although I have heard of the barrels going oval leading to piston slap on the Sherco bikes. The older style Sherco with the tank and airbox switched, I had one and this was a fantastic bike (2014 factory 300), the biggest issue I had was in relation to dirt getting into the fuel pump which was easily managed by splitting and cleaning routinely and by trying to avoid getting crap in the fuel tank, fuel cap covers are available to help with this. That said, I've heard older gassers and beta' rattling away too, so these things are common to all brands over time, it comes down to maintenance and how the bikes have been ridden at the end of the day. If the bikes ride well and sound good when viewing I'd say any of them are a safe bet if they have been looked after. You will have equally as much fun on whichever bike you choose, once setup to suit you then you'll be onto a winner regardless of brand as I believe they are all good.
  3. People do this to save knocking it off on a rock, but if you spit the chain off and it wraps round the front sprocket it can prove a bit of a nightmare if you cannot get to the split link to split the chain if you need to. I have the link pointing outwards and have only lost a split link once in 20 years of riding. You could always keep a split link cable tied to your bike if you were paranoid!
  4. Riding a trials bike is very different to riding an MX bike. I'd recommend a 250 until you've gotten used to the feel of a trials bike. You will soon realize that a 250 will have a lot more power than you will need. A 250 will give you more time to get your head up and have a look whereas the 300 will more than likely pull you into trouble. I've ridden for a few years now and have had different bikes, 250's and 300's. I recently dropped back down to a 250 again and my riding has improved as a result. I ride a Beta 250 now and it is spot on for what I need. They are all good these days and you won't go far wrong with a 250 Gas Gas if that's what you fancy. I had three in a row and they were excellent bikes. All the best and enjoy.
  5. jamo_duval

    EVO Gear oil

    I believe it is 75w aye lad! https://www.putoline.com/en/catalogue/product/351/gp-10-75w/1708/
  6. jamo_duval

    EVO Gear oil

    I've tried both the Motul 300v and Nanotrans for extended periods on my last two 300 evo's, recently tried the Putoline GP10 in me new 250 and this is by far the nicest oil to use in my opinion.
  7. I'm onto my third Beta evo now after having three 250 Gassers and a Sherco Factory 300. With the Beta's my riding has improved most. I'm an average clubman rider but since getting on the Beta my riding has come on most. I had the same query as yourself re the bling parts and that, last year I put Tech forks and an Ohlins on my 2018 Evo which felt mint at the time but after returning the bike to standard for selling I've noticed very little difference haven ridden it standard again three or four times. With this I've decided that the 'mint' feeling was actually more psychological than anything else. Since then I've sold the Tech forks and in the future I'm going to keep the Beta's standard. The Beta rides incredibly well in the sections and on the moors without pulling your arms off. In my opinion it is the clubmans best friend and the reliability of the Beta's is just incredible. Two SSDT finishes in a row with no mechanical issues and granted I was out of time at the Scott in 2017 but the bike got round without a hiccup. Don't let the lack of bling put you off, they are excellent bikes and in my opinion the bling factor is in the head.
  8. What Motul oil are you using Mel?
  9. You can get a bolt on type swan neck Tow Bar. I've got one on mine made by Witter although there are other alternative brands out there I'm sure!! I don't know how sturdy that one on ebay might be as it might want to rock n' roll about on the Tow ball.
  10. Apologies it would seem that I completely missed your text up there. Parts will cost you about £50 in total as you have gaskets and that to take into consideration, if you take the engine out yourself this will bring costs down for yourself as that's quite a time consuming part of the mission! I'd take it to someone who know's what they are doing and if that's not possible take it to your nearest trials dealer and they'll know all the tricks to do it quickly, maybe another £50 in labour.My selector went on my 2011 pro but luckily a pal of mine knew the craic and helped me out. It was interesting to see and learn how it's done as well so I'd recommend that as well!
  11. To me that looks like part of your Selector spring. Engine out and split the casings job to get that sorted unfortunately.
  12. I'd recommend going for the 2013 as they ride a lot nicer in comparison to the older model. I had a 2009 and now have a 2011 which has the same frame as the 2013 which was adapted from the old one (2009-2010 frame) it is slightly wider and has a lower center of gravity which makes it feel a lot more balanced and makes riding over rocks etc feel a lot easier in comparison to the older bike. Don't get me wrong I loved my 2009 pro but I also love this one where the difference is incredibly evident and has reflected in my results. I'm looking to get a newer model soon probably the 2014 when it comes out. Go for the 2013!!
  13. I used to live about 80miles NW of Inverness and used to ride at the Inverness Club. Normally took about 2hours to get to trials but it was well worth it when I got there. They put on great trials and they're a sound bunch of lads. Also headed to Skye for one trial which again was spot on. There was a club at Lochinver as well but I believe the bloke who ran the club works away a lot of the time, so I'm not sure if that club is holding events at the minute.
  14. When is it that regs for the Manx 2 day normally come out? Fancy riding it next year that's all. Cheers
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