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dabmeister10

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  1. Parts lists here http://www.servicehonda.com/parts.html , you'll find the genuine workshop manual on the yahoo group in the files section here http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/CB125/ You'll need to join the group to get access to the files.
  2. According to the model codes here http://oldmanhonda.com/MC/HCodes.html , the advancer unit you have is from the TL so it should have the correct duration. I once fitted a different rotor to my CB alternator but there was no output, turned out it had 4 magnets as opposed to the 6 on the CB one. It might be that you need the complete set-up off the same engine, the keyway in the rotor may be at a different position. As tltel says, some of the cam dowels are different, I had to rotate the points back plate about 90 degrees on the last one I built with a one piece head so not beyond the realms of possibility. I'd imagine the crank keyways are all the same but it's not something I'm sure of.
  3. I'm a bit lost here. Are you running the ignition as DC off a battery which is charged from the stator via a rectifier or are you running AC ignition direct from a stator coil as on the early pre-CDI XL models? If you're running AC then the advance / retard is totally different than the DC version, the crank duration (time with points open) on the AC XL unit is short at 240 degrees, the DC CB 125 unit has a crank duration of 438 degrees, so the points are closed much longer on the AC unit. The CB unit springs are stronger as well. The position of the magnet with respect to the ignition stator coil is important as well in an AC system, the points open just as the voltage wave reaches its peak to give the maximum transfer of energy. From the drawing, the stator and HT coils are shorted out by the points until the points open, the energy then surges into the HT coil to induce the spark, similar to the old Lucas ET system on some British comp bikes. If your LT/HT coils and points are wired up like this then you are correct that with the points open the HT primary coil and LT stator coil are in parallel. Also, I think the AC ignition models have a different type of HT coil. I took those crank duration measurements myself from advancer units model 382 for the XL and 107 for the CB ( the 3 digit number on the advancer unit relates to the Honda bike model code). Regarding 4 wire stators, I've got a drawing of a 1977 USA model CT125 which shows 4 wires but they're Bk/W, W/Y, P and Y.
  4. Think this is a glimpse of it
  5. Old ebay listing here http://www.ebay.co.u...5-/130555431621 , it's a long shot but he might have something left over. Not sure of the piston diameter but there's a Honda piston size chart here http://www.4-stroke....ston-size-chart , maybes the piston could be adapted to take rings from a different model if they were taller. I don't know much about these engines, only the TL/XL/CB 125 motors, did the RTL have a Nikasil bore? Just asking as I have read that you can't rebore them. Also, I believe that rings for Nikasil bores are not of the same material as rings for cast bores.
  6. http://www.gumtree.com/p/cars-vans-motorbikes/old-classic-1970s-trials-bike-needs-tlc/1012008589
  7. No reason you can't use a slave style tank to your carb but to use the Hebo one you'd need to either somehow fit a tap to the bottom of it or fill it, then fit it upside down using the original air vent as your petrol feed and the syphon tube as the air vent. These tanks work by the fuel being syphoned into the main tank as the fuel level drops, you may be able to get the syphon started with the tank the right way up by blowing into the air vent to push fuel over the outlet bend down to the carb but I'm not convinced. And they're £50 a pop by the time it arrives at your house. You'd be better off getting a tank from a lawnmower or similar that already has a tap or outlet on the bottom of it.
  8. I've got one of those Wulfsport helmets, great for trialling but the noisiest helmet in creation at 40mph on the linking roads when out greenlaning!
  9. Always works out cheaper buying something that someone else has thrown money at, if you buy a rough 'un to do up you'll never see your money back
  10. I've got a few bikes but the one I get the most fun from is a 1976 XL125k2, brilliant on the lanes, a TL would be great but you might be limited with fuel range. I can get about 120 miles out of the XL, roughly 95mpg. The XL has the same 1st gear ratio as the TL but the TL has a much longer top gear.
  11. My mate had a 350 Enfield and trialised it with single seat, high level exh, 21 inch front wheel, sump plate etc. It was a great bike but to be honest was too heavy and didn't really have enough ground clearance for any technical going such as we did down the North Lakes. Also, the standard tank is too wide and the pegs too far forward for any serious stuff. Great torque though and at times the weight helped keep it on its line. Stay on the easier lanes though and it'll be great. Re your query about twinshocks elsewhere, I'd advise buying something that's already got a v5, it can get expensive otherwise as you have to insure and mot it on the frame number to get it registered, then you have to tax it to get given the number. You'd also need to get some sort of dating certificate, not sure who does them now that Roy Bacon is off the scene. When I reg'd a TY pinky about 10 years ago I got a dating letter free off Yamaha UK's head office.
  12. Mind and let us know how you get on with them, Thanks, Craig
  13. Have a look here, people seem to rate the Pirelli MT43 for that type of terrain http://www.trf.org.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7367&hilit=tyres&sid=2ab8f69b2e5bbb5cebc66955ce2b70d2 You might find some info here but the search engine isn't very good http://www.trailbikemag.com/forum/
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