i would lose the R ( resistor ) and try a plug with an iridium or whatever is fashionable now centre electrode if it’s going on something with older ignition .
Hi guys, I have a problem with my beta 300 4t 2011 and just wondered if anyone had experienced something like this before. When I flick up a gear the gear shifter doesn't return back to its position. I can give it a gentle tap with my foot and it goes back down and then I can flick it up again to move up another gear but each time I have to manually tap it back down. Moving down gears is fine, it functions as it should. I don't know if there is some kind of spring inside which could have broken. I think I would have no problem taking a gearbox to pieces to inspect but I seriously doubt I could put it back together again! Haha.
Anyone have an idea what the problem is and how complicated it would be to fix, before I attempt an inspection.
Cheers for any help.
Oh and also one more thing, after buying the bike I noticed that the clutch slips a bit in 4th and 5th. Any idea what that could be?
Thanks
I would think it’s the gearchange spring , it’s like a clothes peg spring and one of the legs has broken .
its relatively easy to fix ,no Gearbox to take apart and not expensive , you will need and a clutch cover gasket and “ possibly” have to remove the clutch basket .
more importantly , if it is the spring and it has lost a tang you need to find it .
I agree it is possible that the clutch slip could be due removal of two springs to make it lighter , this will be obvious when you check the return spring .
If you want to change to an earlier plain outer cover , it is a little more involved than first thinking....
I have done it , to use an earlier inner cover that was less worn on the kickstart hole , then realised points camshaft bushes are different sizes in cover
I ended up making bushes and changing camshafts ( with all the fun of the cam followers dropping down..) with hindsight I should have just lived with the leaky gearbox ....
Easiest option is , as already advised ,remove points .
Second option is to read up on part numbers of covers / cams/ bushes and see what will fit , when /if you decide to proceed you are left with other options , closed cam bushes and blocking of oil ( and dirty water )return hole at base of cover , it just snowballs ( nothing on a trials cub is straight forward )
If it is just for looks , and it is working well , i would leave it alone and enjoy your trouble free ignition
remove lip off drum (if any) dremel /die grinder /file
assemble oversize shoes on brake plate
find / make nut and bolt to go through spindle hole (nice sliding fit) fit to chuck
I use tailstock to apply pressure to bolt ( belt and braces )
important bit.. fit two pieces of hacksaw blade between cam and shoe , to give running clearance
high speed , sharp bit , turn down, removing and replacing until it is a nice sliding fit in drum, keep going a bit at a time till this is achieved.
I like to leave the leading edges unfeathered , theory is that it will scrape the mud etc. off, but if it starts to grab in use I put a small taper on , increasing size till grabbing stops
That's how I do it....
( remove hacksaw blades before use , but leave them in for fitting!!)
Does anyone know the thread size (diameter and thread pitch) on the newer type EVO ignition flywheel? According to the parts lists they use the same flywheel puller for both 2 stroke and 4 stroke engines.
I always use Ian at http://classicbrakeservices.vpweb.co.uk/and i can thoroughly reccomend his work. I have no involvement with them other than being a satisfied customer.[/quote
Also a very happy customer of classic brake services, ask for trials linings, I Have tried the alternatives
And found for trials use they are the best by far , mine work just as well in the wet.
I am not sure they would be best choice on a heavy road bike if you are looking for high mileage,
It doesn't replace reg/ rectifier , it is a component of the electrical system that you already have fitted , it can fail and if it does it can bè replaced with the maplins item
"If" it fails and you replace it with the higher rated one it "may" cause the fan to run faster , though I don't see how it could , it certainly doesn't on mine
The regulater rectifier unit would control max voltage and therefore fan speed
The capacitor is well in the harness and although not hard to replace it's not something I would suggest should be attempted unless you are confident in your own ability
If it is an attempt to get the fan running faster then don't waste your time
Not a rectifier... , uprated ? original is 25v but I have used this and noticed no difference at all in fan speed, I picked it as it was slightly physically larger and has a high temp rating which affects working life (in my opinion more important than the voltage, try not to get one rated below 105c) , I tried a 25v smaller cheaper one and found it ran hot (the capacitor) so tried this one and it runs a lot cooler ,
also I moved it out of the sleeving and repositioned above carb top with connectors .
symptoms included : intermittent fuel shutting off and varying fan speed , finally, misfire and bogging under heavy throttle
Tell him its for a trials bike and he will fit linings
That actually work , and work when wet... (In my experience )
He rides a classic trials bike and knows exactly what you need\want
To get the best possible brake :
1: Skim\True brake drum. Then mount oversize relined brakes on lathe and turn to fit
Or
2: not easy to get drum skimmed but anyone with access to a lathe can turn oversize linings to fit (may have to relieve lip on drum with file or die grinder\dremel )
Or
3: measure the internal dia of drum then tell ian the size and he can make oversize to fit
After that it's where do you stop ! You can get rid of ovality in pivot bush, strengthen and extend bush and mounting, alter length of arm .......
I have acquired an early 125 minarelli fantic engine
Upon removing the clutch cover I noticed the clutch basket has helical cut gears like a 240
I have had several of these engines apart over the years and have a couple in bits already but as far as I can recall I have only seen straight cut gears.
If I take them apart I put a felt tip mark on the crank pinion and the clutch basket so they go back in the same place and hopefully don't chatter and rattle at tickover, so I am sure I would have noticed in the past
So, did the early ones have helical gears ? And if so is there any other differances ?
This inspection applies to; all machines except those which have neither front nor rear position lamps, or has such lamps permanently disconnected, painted over or masked that are . only used during daylight hours, and
. not used at times of seriously reduced visibility
If this situation occurs the vehicle presenter should be issued with a VT32 (advisory notice) recording the above.
Exemptions
For this test if a stop lamp is fitted, it must meet the requirements of this inspection, but need not be fitted to a machine which:
a. cannot exceed 25mph, or
b. was first used before 1 January I936.or
c. was first used before 1 April 1986 and which has an engine capacity of less than 50cc. Machines first used before 1 April 1986 must have a stop lamp that operates from at least one brake control.
Machines first used on or after 1 April 1986 must have a stop lamp that operates from both brake controls.
However, a small number of machines first used from this date were approved with the stop lamp operated by only one control. A machine should only be failed if you are certain that it was originally manufactured to operate from both controls
On machines without a battery or with an insufficiently charged battery, it will be necessary to run the engine.
Honda TLR250R
in Four-Stroke
Posted
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