moleman

Check your mailbox I have sent a pm .

If you do a plug chop , don’t use a cleaver! ( first post ) Does what it’s going in have a very good ignition system ?

Used to , probably still does , time moves on . i would lose the R ( resistor ) and try a plug with an iridium or whatever is fashionable now centre electrode if it’s going on something with older ignition .

Change the E to H= BPR5H

I would think it’s the gearchange spring , it’s like a clothes peg spring and one of the legs has broken . its relatively easy to fix ,no Gearbox to take apart and not expensive , you will need and a clutch cover gasket and “ possibly” have to remove the clutch basket . more importantly , if it is the spring and it has lost a tang you need to find it . I agree it is possible that the clutch slip could be due removal of two springs to make it lighter , this will be obvious when you check the return spring .

It is possible to refit the pushrods and cam followers , I posted a way to do it here , hope you get this in time.... http://s126355195.websitehome.co.uk/tigercubforum/read.php?2,2166 Scroll down or look for posts by habilis , if you need more instruction just ask

Bottom left of crankcase is the pump filter /pick up Remove this and check for obstructions ( gasket sealant ...) In pickup pipe If you are lucky there will be something blocking it. Use a torch Because it has been on the bench on it side something may have moved that sits comfortably in normal use If nothing visable put bolt back in and try something else. Still no joy , you will have to take pump off and filter bolt out again and blow through from pump side Or , whilst taking off the pump one of the anti syphoning balls against the crankcase may be stuck For what it's worth , I remove those ( leave the two in the pump !) I havent had any bother wetsumping and it's one less thing to block

What an absolute treat!! , top quality camera work and the bonus of colour Best thing I have seen in a long time. Thank you for posting this .

If you want to change to an earlier plain outer cover , it is a little more involved than first thinking.... I have done it , to use an earlier inner cover that was less worn on the kickstart hole , then realised points camshaft bushes are different sizes in cover I ended up making bushes and changing camshafts ( with all the fun of the cam followers dropping down..) with hindsight I should have just lived with the leaky gearbox .... Easiest option is , as already advised ,remove points . Second option is to read up on part numbers of covers / cams/ bushes and see what will fit , when /if you decide to proceed you are left with other options , closed cam bushes and blocking of oil ( and dirty water )return hole at base of cover , it just snowballs ( nothing on a trials cub is straight forward ) If it is just for looks , and it is working well , i would leave it alone and enjoy your trouble free ignition

remove lip off drum (if any) dremel /die grinder /file assemble oversize shoes on brake plate find / make nut and bolt to go through spindle hole (nice sliding fit) fit to chuck I use tailstock to apply pressure to bolt ( belt and braces ) important bit.. fit two pieces of hacksaw blade between cam and shoe , to give running clearance high speed , sharp bit , turn down, removing and replacing until it is a nice sliding fit in drum, keep going a bit at a time till this is achieved. I like to leave the leading edges unfeathered , theory is that it will scrape the mud etc. off, but if it starts to grab in use I put a small taper on , increasing size till grabbing stops That's how I do it.... ( remove hacksaw blades before use , but leave them in for fitting!!)

Old boy is correct , mk2, air screw .

I can second that , worked well , fitted well , but unstable on a stand , i put up with it at first , but made an alloy one in end Is it better ? Probably not , but hasn't fell off stand since ... Don't worry about being plastic , it fits well and can take a punch.

32 x 1.5 internal , left hand thread

19 February CCMCC MHB motorcycles rd1 Aughertree near Caldbeck We are running a club trial , with normal clubman and easy routes plus an additional begginers route!!! , good long laps No better practise than riding a trial , best just to jump in , do not worry about looking a complete fool ,you will be in good company We have complete fools on all our routes .... It's good fun, good exercise , but be warned, it can be addictive

Symptoms of failure of capacitor Performance will be the same It doesn't replace reg/ rectifier , it is a component of the electrical system that you already have fitted , it can fail and if it does it can bè replaced with the maplins item "If" it fails and you replace it with the higher rated one it "may" cause the fan to run faster , though I don't see how it could , it certainly doesn't on mine The regulater rectifier unit would control max voltage and therefore fan speed The capacitor is well in the harness and although not hard to replace it's not something I would suggest should be attempted unless you are confident in your own ability If it is an attempt to get the fan running faster then don't waste your time Fix the root cause first

​4700 uF 35v 105c radial electrolytic capacitor £1.15 Maplins Not a rectifier... , uprated ? original is 25v but I have used this and noticed no difference at all in fan speed, I picked it as it was slightly physically larger and has a high temp rating which affects working life (in my opinion more important than the voltage, try not to get one rated below 105c) , I tried a 25v smaller cheaper one and found it ran hot (the capacitor) so tried this one and it runs a lot cooler , also I moved it out of the sleeving and repositioned above carb top with connectors . symptoms included : intermittent fuel shutting off and varying fan speed , finally, misfire and bogging under heavy throttle

Www.classicbrakeservice.com Ian campbell Relines your old shoes to whatever size you want Tell him its for a trials bike and he will fit linings That actually work , and work when wet... (In my experience ) He rides a classic trials bike and knows exactly what you need\want To get the best possible brake : 1: Skim\True brake drum. Then mount oversize relined brakes on lathe and turn to fit Or 2: not easy to get drum skimmed but anyone with access to a lathe can turn oversize linings to fit (may have to relieve lip on drum with file or die grinder\dremel ) Or 3: measure the internal dia of drum then tell ian the size and he can make oversize to fit After that it's where do you stop ! You can get rid of ovality in pivot bush, strengthen and extend bush and mounting, alter length of arm .......

never thought to count .... I suppose if they had thought about it, when they designed it they could have done the math and made a hunting tooth ? just something I do, keep the same surfaces together (or not...) wont do no harm, the point being I remember all the others having straight cut teeth and this one is helical so, is this unusual (the helical bit, not my felt tip pen malarkey !)

I have acquired an early 125 minarelli fantic engine Upon removing the clutch cover I noticed the clutch basket has helical cut gears like a 240 I have had several of these engines apart over the years and have a couple in bits already but as far as I can recall I have only seen straight cut gears. If I take them apart I put a felt tip mark on the crank pinion and the clutch basket so they go back in the same place and hopefully don't chatter and rattle at tickover, so I am sure I would have noticed in the past So, did the early ones have helical gears ? And if so is there any other differances ?

Trials is similar to a nudist colony... nobody asks or cares what clothes you could have, would or should have worn you turn up, you ride, you observe, you are surround by like minded people who love the sport, you don't get judged on any other aspect of your life. its called freedom, and long may it last.

Having a stop light only applies "if" you have lights fitted. Taken from: The Motorcycle and Side Car Testers Manual http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual/mc_contents.htm 1.3 Stoplamps This inspection applies to; all machines except those which have neither front nor rear position lamps, or has such lamps permanently disconnected, painted over or masked that are . only used during daylight hours, and . not used at times of seriously reduced visibility If this situation occurs the vehicle presenter should be issued with a VT32 (advisory notice) recording the above. Exemptions For this test if a stop lamp is fitted, it must meet the requirements of this inspection, but need not be fitted to a machine which: a. cannot exceed 25mph, or b. was first used before 1 January I936.or c. was first used before 1 April 1986 and which has an engine capacity of less than 50cc. Machines first used before 1 April 1986 must have a stop lamp that operates from at least one brake control. Machines first used on or after 1 April 1986 must have a stop lamp that operates from both brake controls. However, a small number of machines first used from this date were approved with the stop lamp operated by only one control. A machine should only be failed if you are certain that it was originally manufactured to operate from both controls On machines without a battery or with an insufficiently charged battery, it will be necessary to run the engine.

>Do you really need to have it on the bike? Yes you need it, it not only supports the foam, it prevents the foam filter from catching fire in case of a backfire most four stroke bikes have a mesh barrier either stand alone, in front of the filter in the air box somewhere, or like yours doing 2 jobs it works on the same principle as the Davy lamp (Miners safety lamp) it cools the heat from the backfire flame before it can ignite the filter

my money is on the previous owner has removed a couple of springs to make the clutch lighter....

Is this available for the Mikuni carb fitted to the Beta 4T? I can only find ones for the DRZ fitted with Keihin`s, not the DRZ`s with Mikuni`s can you post a link to the part required?