moleman

Jon, Hopefully it`s the camera angle but the swing arm pivot seems a bit low in relation to the gearbox sprocket? img 011.jpg As it appears now, as the wheel moves through it`s travel, the chain wil get slacker and may even meet the bottom of the swingarm pivot , i assume the pivot point is through the top footrest hanger bolt? it`s a great looking bike , i built a Honda XL250 motosport engine into an OSSA MAR frame and it looked very much like yours in the swing arm dept. it was unusable and took a lot of sorting. The problem is not insurmountable, but would take a bit more of your obvious skill with the welder... I hope i am wrong, but if you havent already done so, put a loose wheel and sprocket and fit a chain and move it through it`s proposed travel

For What it`s worth i bought a 28mm OKO for my 240 from a Scooter shop complete with a range of main jets (jets were around 80 pence each) The carb was around

For a front, try a Suzuki Beamish sprocket with 10 teeth It wont fit..... but if you have a Dremel or similar with a sanding disc you can open the inside teeth out the few thou needed, the tooth shape etc is the same they just are a tiny bit long some i have had almost fit straight on, but it doesnt take much to open them out you will need a 4mm (approx ) spacer behind the sprocket and a circlip to hold it all on check your personal mail...

I have had a pair about 18mth, Light , very well made, easy to service seals and 0 ring are easy to obtain ( though i have not needed to replace either) i have bent one shaft (very big drop..) so made a few spares, easy to change oil , so you could make the return very quick , or slow it down, just measure what comes out , i use ATF right up to straight 40 oil two big phospher bronze bushes and a nylon "piston ring" after much abuse and pressure washing, show no sign of wear very happy with mine

From the left hand side it looks very much Yamaha 250 based top end looks very neat from pics. would like to see some closer shots, definately an "if only" bike

I have to hand a SKF bag with a used one in, and it says 25x33x24 this is it on the "simply bearings" web site

270cc and/or height 129mm, pressure 0 lb unless you are huge check your messages, i have sent you one

The actual Honda part No you require is 51425-KT2-003 (2 of), they are 35mm id But they are easily available at any bearing supplier take them out and measure them, if i have an old set i will measure them , but i have probably thrown them out that is resuming you have a TLR250Rg (Monoshock , very quiet , mostly white ) you shouldnt need any ignition parts (apart from phyisical damage) but you may need a new float (brass and fiddly to solder) part No 16013-286-014 The oil filter is the same as an XR400 but the drain plug location takes a bit of explaining here if you need any more onfo just ask (assuming its a TLR250Rg )

One possibility, if you have measured valves/guides and replaced seals, is that one of the guides may be loose in the head or more likley scenario, one or more have been replaced badly and is not fitting very well, it may leak oil past the outside of the guide and the head when cold, but when hot become tight and not leak . i know it`s a long shot, but if you have the head off again it may be worth while removing the valves and springs and building a dam from plasticine around the guide (but not up to it ) filling with paraffin or similar and seeing if it leaks through past the outside of the guide. Just a thought...

Absolutely Fantastic! just consumed a full packet of chocolate hob nobs whilst watching it twice, found an old can of "Filtrate " complete with black fingerprints in the shed yesterday , so have left it open beside the fire whilst watching for more "atmosphere" Top stuff!

I know very little about torrents , but i can see it in Azureus and have followed several walkthroughs , it is on the tracker site and it`s open on my computer, but.. it doesnt seem to download , if someone who understands all this torrent m`larky wants to PM me with an address i can mail them a CD and set it up right . or any suggestions ? The bit where you copy from VHS to DVD, i can do and i would love to see the 30 min version again, i am busily sorting through old Betamax and VHS tapes to find out if i still have a copy

Pity, its had 31 downloads of the torrent already try this it`s now called http://www.mininova.org/get/959416 ClassicScott 322.5mb on Mininova

Do you know how to create a torrent? Then we could all share you file. If not look here. No i dont(didnt..) know how to create a torrent , but here goes it is on Mininova and is called VTS 01 1 VOB it`s 322.5mb and the hash no is 40f7e1ddf90f7ccf0ddba80491c6242721fa9f62 , there seems to be other vts 01 1 vobs on mininova, so be carefull!! i will leave the comp on for a day or two as i do not have a very fast connection, good luck and lets know if it works Right, forget all that!!! it`s not working... time for some beer, i will try again when i get time or if some can suggest somewhere to easily upload to i will do that , it`s just the same film but better quality , if all else fails i could put it on a CD and mail it to some computer whizz..

Do you know how to create a torrent? Then we could all share you file. If not look here. No i dont(didnt..) know how to create a torrent , but here goes it is on Mininova and is called VTS 01 1 VOB it`s 322.5mb and the hash no is 40f7e1ddf90f7ccf0ddba80491c6242721fa9f62 , there seems to be other vts 01 1 vobs on mininova, so be carefull!! i will leave the comp on for a day or two as i do not have a very fast connection, good luck and lets know if it works

this youtube version is about 45mb , but i have on my desktop the 330 mb .vob file straight as it came from the video player if someone can tell me where to upload it to, i could do that , it`s better quality... Great filming , wonderfull music , Terrible name. Moleman

Get it while you can... i have finaly managed to put this old VHS tape onto DVD and upload it onto youtube, it only lasts about 5mins . Entitled "Two stroke Cowboys " it is aerial coverage of the Scott from the early/mid seventies i suppose it shouldnt be there , copyright and all that and if anyone objects i will remove it , but it`s a little gem

Got access to a lathe? then look here: http://www.realclassic.co.uk/techfiles/tech07071900.html doesnt really help with oval drums though......

Hmmm... what exactly is that? Fouling of the Plug caused by partialy burnt conductive deposits between the electrodes shorting the plug, it used to be very common on two strokes (mostly Brit 2 strokes) but four strokes are not exempt, modern oil , fuels , and better ignitions have reduced this, but anyone can have a bad plug Which NGK iridium? I use a BPR5E1X on a `99 2.5

So what

My `99 2.5 front has no offset i assume yours will be the same , so there`s a start, but the rear is offset to the disc side quite a bit around an inch or so, the exact distance will have to wait a day or two till i turn my tire.. and measure it is he cutting and threading new spokes, or have you bought a set to fit? these are not common shapes and bends for spokes so i assume (hope) they are for the bike. if so, and there are two different lengths for the rear , the shorter ones will go to the disc side , the other thing is to get the rim the right way round, but i assume if he knows to ask about offset he can work that one out himself in summary , the front is straightforward and the rear if you have two different lengths , you wont need to know the offset, just that the shorter spokes go to the disc , if the spokes are correct the offset will take care of itself.

Cheapest,(under

Spare a thought for the "enthusiast" in a few years time if you use Washing up liquid to fit tires, it is fine to start with but as you scratch through the anodising (if it has any..) the salt in the washing up liquid (lots) will start to corrode the aluminium, it`s worse with tubed rims than with tubless because of the different materials used, (bimetallic corrosion) which is then accelerated by the salt/damp making an electrolyte. by their nature Trials bikes change tires often so suffer tire levers more than most. it doesnt happen overnight, so dont fret, but check out a bike that a few years old and consider whether that white powder under the rim tape is realy old talcum powder, or your rim rotting. it a one way process. alternatives are proper tire "soap" (scrounged from nearest tire fitter) WD40 or similar, "personal lubricant" available from Anne Summers i`m informed.. Swarfega type products are worse than washing up liquid as they contain even more salt. Also, if any one is still reading after the chemistry lesson, on the subject of blowing tires up enough to seat properly, if.. you use a proper tire fitting lubricant there should be no need for sky high pressures to seat the tire, i know they can be awkward but if you are going much more than 50/55 psi there is something wrong, and what can it be? you have got a bigger rim than everyone else? or have you landed on a 400x 17 1/2 Michelin X1 by mistake? probably not... Also, as i replied to someone else about leaky rims, i know it sounds awfull, but on tubless tires/rims if you are having trouble with air leaking between the the rim edge and the tire due to corrosion or hamfisted tire lever use tearing the soft inner tire seal, dry the tire and rim and apply clear sillicone sealant to the tire and rim, it`s an excellent lubricant and is easy to remove when it sets.

Is this what you are after?, http://www.acerbis.com/p150_tank/11250006.html I have seen a one in the flesh(3litre), and it looks very good and well made, 3 litre and 5 litre available, you could leave it fitted and syphon it dry with a number fitted for trials.

".......after doing this the tyre still goes down between the rim and tyre. any help would be appreciated as i am now stuck for ideas" Let the tire down and break the bead, dry both the rim and the tire, get your silicone gun out and put a bead round the rim on the flat, do not worry too much about how it looks, turn over do the same on the other, inflate (the silicone is a good lubricant) up to about 30psi to seat it, then let it down to about 20 ish, now wipe off the excess and leave it for a couple of hours and hey presto. Comes off very easily when changing tires, i have had success with chewed up second hand tires with torn beads... Moleman