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About japes1275

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  1. This is a good place for Honda part numbers and diagrams which might be of some use if you haven’t found it already: https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/honda-motorcycle/250-MOTO/TRIAL I can’t find your exact model but you might be able find something similar. It’s not the easiest site to navigate so good luck! John
  2. Thanks Stan, unfortunately I’m stuck with a 19” rim as I’m trying to keep it as original as possible. I did consider having a second wheel built up with an 18” rim but as it’s really going to be more of a general use bike there didn’t seem to be much point.
  3. Thanks for that rabie, sounds promising for the Mitas then.
  4. I use Pirelli MT43 tyres on my B40 which unlike a lot of trials tyres are ok for road use. I once tried a Michelin trials competition and after a couple of miles it heated up and the bike was un rideable. I want a tyre for my Norton but as it has a 19” wheel tyre choice is limited. Pirelli don’t do an MT43 and the only others I can find are an Ensign which isn’t really a proper trials tyre and a Mitas. The Mitas looks like a full 400x19 trials tyre but I’m unsure as to whether it will be too soft for the road. The bike will mostly be used on the road but I might do the occasional long distance trial etc. I’m not bothered about wear characteristics or trials grip but it needs to be ok on the road. Has anyone tried the Mitas 400x19 trials tyre that confirm it is hard enough for road use? Thanks
  5. I’ve got the receipt when mine had it’s 150 conversion done by the dealer in 1975 before my dad bought it new. Still going strong today!
  6. Have you tried Google Images? Just tried it and it comes up with loads - some aren’t that clear though. Also comes up with links to the odd thread on forums asking similar questions to yours.
  7. japes1275

    BSA C15

    Er, surely if scot buys a Drayton frame and a load of modern bits he'll end up with something totally different to a proper pre65 trials bike?! BSA had a bit of an idea about trials bikes and what they did was convert a standard C15 and turned it into a trials bike - admittedly one that still needed loads of work to make it competitive!! I agree with what has been said though, it will cost a fortune in time and money, better to buy one already done or perhaps half done?
  8. Thanks Jon, I've thought I might get Dave to rebuild my B40 and give it a bit more oomph so good to hear you're happy. I've got the RR engine book, must get the other two sometime.
  9. I used to have mine the 'right' way up because to me they look right that way. I had a few comments but the thing that made me change them was because I noticed that mud gathered on the top of the damper where the piston rod slides which I thought might wear the seals quicker.
  10. Esso Super unleaded is reputed to be ethanol free at the moment. I think there might be a couple of exceptions geographically such as the South west. I looked at the Ethanil kits but was put off by the fact that it significantly lowers the octane level, might not be a problem to most trials bikes though.
  11. Something like these products: http://www.jb-weld.co.uk/metal-repair
  12. Well I'm pretty sure you can change the seal without taking the sleeve gear out! It should be possible but I guess it would be easier with the gearbox internals out and sleeve gear removed. Centre punching is a bit of a bodge to be honest and a last resort. Probably very difficult to do with the engine in the bike. Basically the surface that is worn is centre punched all round it's circumference, the small craters into the soft alloy (or steel in other cases) make the surface slightly higher and give the bearing/seal etc something to grip on. Can also be done on a shaft to help hold a loose bearing race. My B40 has had it done and is still holding ok. The epoxy I use is from work so can't really comment on what brands to use that you might find in the shops. The best ones will be the grey metalised ones, I think there might be one called Permametal. If you've not already got it the best money you can spend on your unit single is the Rupert Ratio engine manual.
  13. You need to remove the primary chain case cover, remove the clutch (puller needed) which might also need the front engine sprocket and alternator removing, then behind the clutch there is a cover plate with about 6 screws which needs to come off. Then you can finally see the gearbox sprocket. This needs to be removed to get to the seal behind it. Quite often the seal is loose in the gearbox due to it turning and wearing the casing. There are various ways of sorting this, some form of strong epoxy, centre punching the ID of the casing etc. Good luck!
  14. I use mine on my commute! Well occasionally when it's not raining and I can be bothered to get my gear on. The Pirelli is fine at 50-60 mph and is suprisingly good on cornering. I've seen them being used in trials so they can't be that bad for that either.
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