Essentially all road bike and cars are battery powered brake light.
Power source, switch, light. I would scavenge a spring activated, from downward rear brake pedal pressure, switch, cable tie it to the frame, one end of spring on the switch - one in a pre drilled hole on your brake pedal, getting the spring length right, run a power supply through it and when activated it opens the power to a bulb mounted on your rear mudguard in a bulb holder.
Try a 6v system, and you could use 4x AA batteries in a holder.
its simple enough to do, it's sourcing the bits that's the difficulty.
At your weight, get a 200cc, something like a Beta Evo, but at your wife's weight, she'll only need a 125 as she's only about 46kgs!
either get two bikes, or feed her up ?????
trials is nothing like any other sport, so while you may have excelled in everything else you've attempted, be patient with trials and stick with it. Bike fitness and finesse with controls can determine how good you are, not necarsarily how good a sportsman/woman you are.
Some dealers will supply it Trial ready and give you a box of the "extra" bits.
Trouble is bikes have to be manufactured to a standard required by the EU if they can be registered for the road. Manufacturers do not sell a production bike that is NOT intended to be registered, other than motorcross bikes, without all the EU required extras, if they did, cost would be less and be a benefit to the buyer.
Also, with no cost to you, go on the Gov' MOT checker website.
This way you can check its MOT history and if your seller tells you it's a local car, the MOT garage should be local too, if it's not and the car has been MOT'd miles away, yet the seller tells you otherwise, then that's your alarm bells!
If it's gas gas, no go direct to John Shirts Motorcycles, the old Gasser importer prior to KTM owning them, and he will stock the item, can give tech advice and help with anything else. eBay, you only get a part !
Some very good dealers around the country , all deliver, I use SW Trials, or BVM moto or Trials UK, All will video clip a bike if your interested in one from their website, and I've never had issues with any of them. Lots more dealers around as well, all will offer the same services, but I can only comment on these three as they're the ones I've used.
You can always go on to Gumtree, and FB market place, and some clubs have notice boards on their websites which are worth checking.
Rest assured, your not being optimistic, 2 for 4K is realistic, just keep looking.
The Scorpa is a good bike and yes, ideal smooth power, but at your budget get a Beta Evo 125 or 200cc, slow action throttle fitted, you'll have the ideal bike for your lad and at his build, either sized Evo will be perfect.
loads available as they're still being made so loads of choice. Get the best looked after one you can find.
You are now asking the question that could also be asked with, " what's the meaning of life".
In part answer, you need to answer several questions, what's your 18 yr olds build, if he's 6'5" and 22 stone, I wouldn't recommend a 125, but if he's 5'8" and med build a125 would be ideal for him to start on, forgiving and not overpowering, never muscling your son around and able to build confidence on. Forget 280s and 300s.
Whats your budget. Less that a grand, a grand to two or more ? Lots of bikes in this range, some great, others not so for a beginner.
Personally I'd seriously look for a beta Rev3, 125 or 200, if your budget is Evo bracket, even better, loads of dealers stock the parts at reasonable prices and it'll need spannering, but not after every ride!
Gas Gas 125 or 200 and Sherco 125s also good, but I'd look at Beta first.
There are some good aircooled monos out there which are quite placid com paired to really modern stuff, and lots of riders have honed their skills on a TY mono over the years, it does really depend on your lads build, budget, his taste, (he'll have to like it), and parts back up or clubs in your area that cater for the bike he chooses, i.e beginners mono class, instead of all in together.
Good luck choosing, let us know what you get with some photos of his progress. ??
At your budget forget a TR34 or twinshock as they are holding and increasing in value daily so possibly to pricey for a good one now!
As a novice a 98 or 99 Techno or a later rev3 would be ideal for a novice, and if you can find a 200cc one,brilliant, as they are really forgiving and not a handful. Your other shoulder will remain intact.
Because I have one, consider also a Yam engined Scorpa (2001-2006) bullet proof engine, soft, smooth power, and will not bully you too much.
Defo a 349, as said it should have a grey frame and matching grey mudguards, front and rear.
the tank/seat unit should sit flush to the rear guard, is it the correct air box or is that not holding it up, it's just the image and not held down tightly?
I had an Aprilia TXR, air cooled with almost the same engine fitted which did the same.
i only removed clutch and gears and the spring had a right angled lugg end which seated in a hole/indent in the clutch side crank case to secure and retain it. Never split the cases at all.
hope this helps, bottom line is, you'd have to take the clutch and gears off to split the cases anyway, so whip em out, and that should reveal what you need.
Cracking little bikes, overlooked for the MH349's and the 330's.
I had two during the mid 80's, a white and an orange/red tank model, bought one from Sammy's , when he was on Gore Road, New Milton and one from Roger Painter's at Warminster.
If the price is right get it,and put some photos up!
It looks like the bolts are over tightening on the plastic , could you try a slightly longer bolt, so you still get the purchase on the nut, but not the pressure on the plastic?
Failing that, what about, plastic welding a strip of aluminium, running under the plastic to give support and strength to the plastic! almost like a foundation strip or base strip.
I know some who did similar with a trail bike and used a dremmell and made a small slot in the snapped off bolt and then used an engineers screwdriver with a spanner on the end to remove it simply.
Your tractor tyres, bury half the tyre upright, the rest sticking up, and lay down some a couple of feet apart to try and hop between....remember the layed flat ones need filling with soil, or they move a lot or collapse when ridden on.
Battery powered brake light
in General Trials Talk
Posted · Edited by jonboy883
Essentially all road bike and cars are battery powered brake light.
Power source, switch, light. I would scavenge a spring activated, from downward rear brake pedal pressure, switch, cable tie it to the frame, one end of spring on the switch - one in a pre drilled hole on your brake pedal, getting the spring length right, run a power supply through it and when activated it opens the power to a bulb mounted on your rear mudguard in a bulb holder.
Try a 6v system, and you could use 4x AA batteries in a holder.
its simple enough to do, it's sourcing the bits that's the difficulty.