Have the changed the geometry on the new GG’s then? I didn’t realise that.. I guess that will be a different beast again then….
They mentioned it in their list of changes, 'different geometry', and ive heard people say that they went steeper more beta like, which was the only way they could have went. Ive only had a short 5 minute ride on one of the new ones. I wasnt in a hurry to jump off it, and if someone hadnt of told me about the steering i probably wouldnt have noticed.
Same here. They have steep steering, which is why some clubmen love them, they turn tight. If youre good enough to hop, then this isnt a deal breaker, as most of your turns arent made at full lock. The new GG has steeper steering than the pre 23 model. Still not as twitchy as a beta though. Im lucky enough to be rather tall so starting a gg isnt a big deal but i fully acknowledge they certainly arent the easiest
To me, its the same as buying an audi and then having a loyal bmw nut asking you why didnt you buy a bmw. Half the people who say that dont even know why they are riding a beta 250 themselves, they are only riding it because their mate told them theyre the most popular bike. Same goes for montesa, gg owners etc. Personally, i dont like the way they steer, or the engine, but some people love the flat power delivery and some love the way they steer (mostly people who cant hop, because they have the smallest turning circle). If youve had a beta 200 youve experienced close enough to first hand what a beta 250 will be like. I wouldnt worry a thought about what other people say, in fact if youve had a mix of bikes you may find youre more qualified to compare bikes than the people saying. Some people are so brand loyal they wont even have a ride on another make if someone offers them a go, yet are still adamant the bike they ride is the best. Beta are also the cheapest out of the crate (in the UK at least), that may have more effect on numbers than some people want to admit. No harm in trying a test ride on one though
It depends largely on terrain, and from what i know about the type of terrain lemur rides i can understand why he uses 3rd a lot. Personally im in 1st a lot more frequently than 3rd.
The oiled balance gaernes are full grain leather. Their coloured boots are lorica, and so are sidis, but i think the inside of the calf on the sidis is leather. The sidis are not a confortable boot IMO, because of the lorica, possibly. The lorica gaernes are also inferior to the full grain version. In saying that, the gaernes are still a decent boot. Infact i think i remember way back hearing graham jarvis used to prefer the lorica version because they were stiffer. Alpinstars and forma are leather. The gaernes could be your only option, and in fairness, not a bad option
Looks like the hebos could be at the very least part synthetic, hard to tell if its 100% syn
What angle are your handlebars at? Most pros run their bars very far forward due to them spending most of their time on the back wheel. For general riding this adds a lot of weght to the wrists, though i doubt youve copied their bar positions. Looking at the bike from the side id aim for the part of the bars going up from the clamps to be roughly vertical, ie slightly foward from the projected line of the fork legs, but lesser riders tend to have them further back than this. Further forward is only useful for trick riding. Its really not the forwardness of the bars but how far back the footrests are on modern bikes that puts the weight through your arms. Most bike post 90 have similar riding positions. I actually find some 80s 90s bike worse for this because their footrest are just as far back but with a higher position than modern bikes.
You could be riding too much in attack mode like you would when standing on an enduro or mx bike. Youre kind of holding onto the bars for dear life so to speak. As you improve, your relaxed riding stance may become a bit more straight backed, which relieves weight from the bars. In tight turns you want to position your weight preferentially over the front, but when riding straight you want to have most of your weight over the rear wheel through your legs. 90% of trials is about rear wheel grip and a light front end. If your arms are sore it sounds like youre loading the front end too much of the time
Your initial list is pretty good tbh. I wouldnt put too much stress on being able to static balance, moreso being able to ride super slow with the clutch in a controlled manner. I think it important being able to turn your bike in full lock while on relatively flat ground, which is virtually impossible without the use of some clutch and brake work.
As for zapping/splatting, it all depends on the shape of the ledge or rock. You can still touch front rocks up to 6ft, but there becomes a point splatting is better. Splatting isnt really necessary for obstacles below 4ft, but you have to start practicing them on something, so may as well be on the small stuff.
You dont say if you find your 300 too powerful. Given the age, its probably equivalent to a newish 250 regarding power. Depends what your intentions are. If its to do tight technical stuff id say keep it small, 250. If you want to ride it more like a trail bike, a montesa would maybe suit better. Getting a more modern bike will benefit you most with its lighter weight when it comes to hopping the bike around. Doesnt sound like you are at that stage yet. Will a new bike help? Yes, but for general riding around, clubman level riding and below, not that much
@Nedly S3 PARTS Spain make a head and low compression insert for your bike it costs £153.00 in the UK I think you should find S3 parts for sale in the USA at a Trials dealer , if you cannot find it then go to www.trialendurodirect.com in the UK.
Theres no need to buy the complete inner and outter parts. AFAIK the s3 insert fits the standard 2023 style outter part. Id doubly check though. The inner part retails for around £60
The carbon looks the best, but it may not be as strong as you hope. I see it more as scuff protection than rock protection. I have a pair of 2m frame guards on my gasgas and although i realise they are thin, one fall against a rock and it broke very easily. Theyre expensive to replace. I also have the 2m fork guards and they are really nice, they clip on with no zip ties required
Have a look on YouTube. There's a chap from Northern Ireland did a series of about 6 videos on preparation for the SSDT. I don't think it will answer your specific question but you will certainly gain something from it. Also look at the bike preparation advice on the Beta UK website. Even if you're not riding a Beta you'll find a lot of the information applies to any bike.
I was just thinking that Vertigo is a much smaller company than GasGas and might have reliability issues as a smaller company has less resoureces...and the Injector seems a complication to me. Am I wrong?
I tend to agree, although to be honest you dont hear lots of problems with the vertigo, but if something were to go wrong it usually requires a laptop to diagnose it. I disagree on the point about footrest brackets, the gg is a steel frame, if you manage to somehow bend the frame here it can be straightened again. Ive seen the alloy framed montesas actually break the frame here
The price difference to the gp i think is mostly around suspension. Engine performance difference isnt that noticeable
Im biased towards gasgas. The GP is unnecessary, unless money is not a problem. Are you close to a vertigo dealer if something goes wrong with it? GG have a better dealer network now theyre under KTM. Other than that, neither is a bad bike
Theres no such thing as indefinitely in a 2 stroke. Where do you mean? The centre box or the tail pipe? Oil contamination forshortens the life of silencer packing before anything else. Scorpa said their sy silencer had ceramic packing that never needed changing. Bikes started to sound rough and performance dropped after about a year. It may have a better chance in a 4 stroke. Otherwise i like your thinking. The non woven stuff i would imagine being the best. Also, many people think silencer packing is only to silence the bike. Engine performance is extrememly dependent on packing type and density. Glass fibre isnt heavy, so theres neglibgle weight savings. If the time to clog the cf is the same as the gf, i dont see where the benefit comes from. But im also tempted to try lol
Trousers over the outside of the boots are a pain, especially if you ride in shrub, they catch on everything. Jitsie do a loose fit or any mx trousers would allow kneepads . Shift used to do what you are looking, over the outside of the boots, but i dont know of any officially marketed for trials trousers that do as you describe. Mybe look at some enduro brands. like acerbis, i think they do tough material over torusers.
Beta Curious…
in General Trials Talk
Posted · Edited by faussy
They mentioned it in their list of changes, 'different geometry', and ive heard people say that they went steeper more beta like, which was the only way they could have went. Ive only had a short 5 minute ride on one of the new ones. I wasnt in a hurry to jump off it, and if someone hadnt of told me about the steering i probably wouldnt have noticed.