faussy

Just seen this on youtube

Just a hunch, but I think the angled cut was to allow the brake hose easier access into the swingarm, which is the route it takes on your bike, when the wheel is fully forward in the swingarm. Later bikes and other manufacturers have the hose mounted outside the swingarm. Worst case scenario you can cut/hack/file this clearance into the new caliber

Were the points open when you measured this continuity to ground? Open the points, and then also try removing the condenser, it can short to ground if faulty. You can get a new condenser at most autopart stores or online for a few quid

Minus the clicking, that sounds normal to me

Ive been here a while, and also frequent a lot of other forums and I think it's fair to say people here are a lot more patient and helpful than on other forums. If someone has been talked down on its most likely because they've ignored some previous advice and are adamant they are right. Not saying it doesn't exist, and while the sites only real moderator doesn't seem to frequent the site very much if at all these days, IMO it is rare and certainly not something "a lot" of us are guilty of. Care to share specifically where you've seen this talking down?

All types of SS are predominantly iron. You argue it's not stainless because it's magnetic? I would expect a ss spring to be magnetic, because the very act of cold drawing and then tempering makes stainless magnetic...

Yeah I did some quick calcs and they are very close, equivalent to about 1/2 tooth at the rear. The fact you already know you like the 51 and you aren't shooting in the dark, getting one made is probably the way to go. I take it you've tried contacting talon directly?

I don't have an EM so not sure what the standard front sprocket is but if you run a 10/51, it's virtually identical to 11/55, and I see above 55 is available. 11/51 is also very similar to 12/55. Not ideal, you would probably have to buy another chain aswell as the front sprocket, but an option albeit an expensive one

Only when you get to expert will you think the 250 isnt enough for you, so unless youre going to be making expert in the next couple of years id steer you towards the 250. Although if the right 300 came along at a good price, go for it, just be prepared to spend a few 100 on bits slowing it down. I actually think a detuned 300 is nicer than the 250, more torquey low down, they are just a bit of a handful up top if you get too aggressive with the throttle

Not an ossa expert but from a practical point of view I always find it easier to keep gloss black barrels clean than matt ones. The latter kind of get stained with mud

I would worry about any 2 stroke trials bike long term doing any sort of enduro. I dont particularly like 4rts, but you will at least know the gearbox and engine will stand the abuse

Had this happen to one of my ggs years ago. Once fixed you need to tie the clutch line to one of the down tubes where the exhaust comes out with a zip tie. As for rebleeding, what you have described is correct. There should be a bleed nipple on the banjo where it enters the clutch casing. Just bleed like you would a brake cylinder

In the UK? Try Allens used trial spares on FB

Its a wheel bearing on a trials bike, what do you need high tolerance for? The water and dirt gets into the expensive one every bit as easy as the cheap one, and once it does they're done

Personally ive found wheel bearings to wear out no matter what brand or cost they were. Once water and dirt get in they are toast so I wouldn't put yourself out too much sourcing quality wheel bearings. Its the only bearing on a bike I don't care where they came from

I stand corrected

This is one event that will never go stop allowed, its never been stop allowed even when the world championship was. Tradition. The only two options are accept that brief stops are now the norm, or reinforce the rules to riders and observers that no stops will be tolerated. I don't think it's that confusing, or making up of the rules. Stop isnt allowed, but slowly over the years longer and longer stops have been tolerated. This isnt specific to the ssdt, IMO this is standard practice from club trials right up to the world championship before it returned to stop allowed.

Thats still two grades. The whole idea is to have everyone ride the same line, thats the whole point of the event. The guy who finishes 300th wants to ride the same sections that Dougie Lampkinn rode. Anyone who rides the ssdt knows exactly what they are signing up for. If they find it too hard, they don't return next year, and someone else takes their place. Putting in a route for people who find it too hard is what you do at your local club trial. Whether it's a 5 or not for stopping is up to the observer. Some will give it a five some won't. People have let longer and longer stops go unpunished every year since the no stop rule was introduced. Thats unavoidable. Whether one observer gives it as a five or not isnt really important, the key is to be consistent across the 300 riders riders through your section.

You suggest making two lines in the ssdt? The event is over subscribed every year, adding an extra line to accommodate the bottom half of the field would only dumb the event down

Not sure what the point is that youre trying to make

🤣 no. Stop is a five. That doesnt stop the top guys doing it and getting away with it though

The 225s are rather tame. The jerkiness could be a whole number of reasons. Poor carburation, a bad ignition or you could just not be accustomed to the type of throttle response trials bikes provide. Are you coming from a road bike or a mx bike? Has it got a flywheel weight added? You can tell if there's a 10mm spacer fitted between the casing and the flywheel cover. A flywheel weight is usually added when converting from 125 to 225 and helps to smooth the power out. I remember Kev from GGUK used to run 2 flywheel weights There should be a few posts on the forum here for 225s. 9/48 is more 125 gearing but is rather low for a 225 or 250. It could be the person put a 225 kit on a 125 and didn't change the gearing. Gearing up may help

you can get them here https://www.central-wheel.co.uk/products/classic-rims/stainless-steel-rims.html I have a pair of ss rims on an old greeves.

What's your intentions? Build a genuine replica, or a modern pre 65? If you have the original steel rims you could get them reconditioned and keep the bike original. Regardless of the rims I wouldn't waste time with anything other than SS spokes. Expensive but worth it if you intend to keep the bike for any amount of time.

Traditionally the spring/open side always faces inwards, but ive seen a few engines (some older Japanese stuff) that specifically call for the reverse on the transmission oil side.