faussy

Primary drive gear is on the end of your crank, not your front sprocket

You can work your way through these for starters 😁 https://www.google.com/search?q=gasgas+top+hat+site%3Awww.trialscentral.com&client=firefox-b-d&sca_esv=556587111&biw=2560&bih=1307&sxsrf=AB5stBhP7V4tEHZCBRA9T03ndfspxJkDIw%3A1691961924455&ei=RErZZKm-G5ashbIP5ZWBkAU&ved=0ahUKEwip8OurydqAAxUWVkEAHeVKAFIQ4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=gasgas+top+hat+site%3Awww.trialscentral.com&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiKWdhc2dhcyB0b3AgaGF0IHNpdGU6d3d3LnRyaWFsc2NlbnRyYWwuY29tSN0LUIoKWIoKcAJ4AJABAJgBQaABQaoBATG4AQPIAQD4AQHiAwQYASBBiAYB&sclient=gws-wiz-serp

Search on here for ‘top hat’

Dont know about the ty but a classic motocross bike i have has 100 Nm in the manual. Ive seen 90 Nm for other bikes. As lowside says though, im always a bit wary of 50 year old threads stripping at high torques

GG recommend motorex, a fully synthetic, but thats the only offroad oil they make. Using motul 800 in a trials bike is only asking for more trouble, never seen it being recommended by any manufacturers for their trials bike. Ask anybody who knows and they will straight up say dont use 800. The UK sherco importer recommends rock oil, a semi sythetic, before that it was ipone, also semi. Find it odd putoline have a dedicated trials oil, yet are now recommending you to use their mx oil. If a bike has 120 hours on it (i also remember you saying in a post you had over 300 hours on a bike), and you werent the owner from new, there can be other reasons for this than just the oil

Ive never used fully synthetic oil in a trials bike because these are usually designed for motocross and more likely to do what has happened to your bike. Im guessing thats what mx stands for in the suggested oils . For this reason ive always stuck with semi synthetic. I run 60:1 and have never experienced carbon build up like this Are you sure your bike is carburetted properly?

You wont wear the magnet out. Its basically a switch with the throw magnetized. When the magnet is attached it attracts the throw away from the ground. No more moving parts than a conventional switch. 99% of the time the lanyward is a pain, its that 1% of the time it comes in handy.

Weve just had the wettest july in recorded history. Your grass looks like it could do with some rain😁

Yes. Some people like the lanyard, some swap this out for a conventional kill switch. In my opinion thats a good starting point, especially for a brand new bike. Cant comment on the fuel as ive never run the low octane fuel in america (where i assume you are). Others will comment. The older tanks seemed to swell a bit with the ethanol but the new tanks dont seem to swell as much. I run 97, 5% ethanol, while others run 10% with (i think) no real problems

The way the GG gearbox works there will always be a noticebale clunk going from 4th to 5th, moreso than the other gears. Hard to tell without seeing/hearing it whether you are just noticing what is standard or its more than whats standard. I always change to 5th low in the rev range, never above half throttle, otherwise you can sometimes get grinding

Nothing against sherco 125s but those years of shercos with the inverted tank/air filter and fuel pump were never a great hit. Across all the capacity range. They went back to conventional setup in 2016 the same as the scorpa and were a good bike again

Did you make the sure the earth was on bare metal?

You have a plug with a solid terminal. You can get the same plug either threaded or with a removable nut, no need to change the heat range if you dont want to

I think the 22 has an r16v which has a rebound adjuster. You could try backing that off for starters

Same as above, if youre really wanting to get your wife involved get her something125 or below, otherwise the first time she rides it will probably be the last. Unless thats your motive lol

Looks well! Nothing to really comment on other than the popping is pretty standard for 2 strokes. Thats if im imagining correctly what you are describing, kind of constant throttle on the overrun. I wouldnt worry about it, so long as its clean when under load. On all trials bikes theres always a large jump in gearing between 3rd and 4th, as 1-3 are the section gears and 4,5 are the trail gears. Therefore I wouldnt assume youre missing 4th just because theres a big jump there. 3rd to 5th would be an even more significant jump. 4th gear is probably the most ideal for lane riding, so if it becomes an issue you can always take the bacon slicer off the rear and gear up 1-3 since youre mostly trail riding. Great to see that era of bike still being used. PS run your eye over your rear brake disc. Those years they had really thin arms and were prone to cracking

2% isnt necessary. 60:1 for both bikes is more than adequate, some would say you would be fine with 70:1 on the sherco

Not what you want to hear but these were known as hard to source 18 months ago. Your only hope may be to source a good 2nd hand one. A longshot could be to try allens used trials spares

The metal gauze is standard, it comes from the factory with a wrap of that then the glassfibre. It looks like its been years since its seen the light of day, the packing could maybe be catching on where the tire had worn through the original I should add, rarely the baffle pulls straight out, usually the baffle and packing come out as one. Removing some excess packing would certainly help

It should definitely pull out, although judging by how the silencer has previously been modified im not sure whats going on. Is that a sleeve thats been added, or the silencer extended a few inches? The cap should be straight on to the main silencer with no sleeve so to speak. Judging by the age of the packing its definitely worth doing. I cant think why the baffle wont come out other than being jammed in. They can get wedged in pretty tight sometimes. Did you pull it good with a pair of pliers? The titanium colour part is the original exhaust, has an aluminium cover been put over the outside?

Remove the end cap, usually 4 rivets. The centre baffle will then pull out. If using loose packing refit baffle and lightly stuff in packing around it. If using sheet, wrap the baffle first followed by a wrap of masking tape at each end and then reinstall it. You can also pack the end cap a little with loose packing. Remember the orientation of the baffle, the flaring on one end is usually slightly longer than the other. Cant remember if this goes towards the engine or end cap

Titanium has a lower thermal conductivity than steel and about the same as stainless. So certainly no improvement

It has most likely be respoked (possibly due to a bent rim) at some point and someone did a bad job. If the spindle spacers were wrong your disc wouldnt line up in the caliper

Both replies above are correct, depending on what you mean by offset, i.e. does the wheel point straight ahead but is closer to one fork leg than the other, or is the wheel in the centre of the fork legs but point of at a angle?

Totally agree. Heres the quote i once seen before but its in the description of the helmet. Cant actually find anything official from the FIM regarding this however. The FIM dont allow removable guards in MX, not sure if theyve mentioned this regarding trials Due to its clever design, this chin bar minimizes obstruction of the line of sight. It is made of very strong, durable polycarbonate, adding protection against impacts that may be caused for instance by the handlebars. The FIM strongly recommends additional chin protection for trial riders, and made it compulsory by 2018 for Junior riders up to 16 years. The FIM also ruled that guards from other brands or third parties like accessory brands are not allowed.