faussy

No need to take the hex bolts out. Pull up on the tab just to the left of the d in 'domino'.

Its an interesting point. I dont think the tread pattern has changed from the 60s, maybe even 50s. All thats changed is the number of plys and compound. I wonder what the ideal tread pattern would be if we werent held to the rulebook (which i think is a good thing btw). There would definitely be a mud vs dry weather tyre for starters. And you point about slicks for indoor. Surely if it was advantageous someone would has used a very very well worn tyre bordering on a slick that still kept to the rule book. I guess its a competition between contact area and grip against 90 degree angles which a treaded tyre will do better over a slick

Personal opinion here. Gaernes are comfy, but i find too soft and lack protection, especially when wet. Sidi, stiff, good protection but sole has a tendancy of coming away at the toe. Im currently using alpinestars. Super comfy, good protection, but cant speak yet about long term durability. Forma are probably the other consideration, but ive no experience of these.

Is your gearbox oil still that colour after the waterpump change??

What year are the old plates from? They could be different thicknesses, otherwise they should be ok. Judging by the size of the friction pads they look old. Why are you changing plates already if its a 2022?

It could be you are also riding them too fast. If the rocks are larger sized with spaces between then you should pick your spots and ride them slow, 1st gear even. If they are smaller, loose rocks, thats when a bit of speed may be needed

Im not saying you wont get an answer here, but afaik theres a very limited cyclo trials community here, mostly motorcycle trials. You may be best asking on a cyclo trial specific forum. 650C are larger diameter so id say yes, but im not expert enough in cyclo trials to know more specific pros and cons of either

Bump start it. 4th gear

This is true, but the same is also said in reverse. Ive heard trials riders look down on other forms of motorsport claiming that trials is the most technical and you dont need skill for mx. I even feel the author who has written the attached link is a little on their high horse about trials. "Trials teaches much better throttle clutch and brake control" and "travelling at speeds covers up any imperfections of your use of them", I totally disagree!!! Theres also plenty of world champion mx riders who have never thrown their leg over a trials bike I would agree that trials riders seem to adapt a little quicker to mx than a mx'er to trials but at the end of the day if you want to be at the top of either you gotta get good at each disciplines nuances. I currently ride classic mx myself, having started out in trials, but i wouldn't say i use one to train for other. I just enjoy both. Theres also been numerous times ive had to undo habits ive picked up in trials. Standing too much, sitting position and clutch/throttle use. I am and will always will remain crap at jumps. As intotrials says, applying a trials riders ability to find grip can be a great help, but ive also found times ive been riding mx in a much too reserved manner because ive been trying to find grip all the time. Sometimes a handful of throttle and an ignorant drop of the clutch can be quicker

Pegs already look pretty low to me, you cant have them drop below the sump guard

I dont think the OP is questioning trials inclusivity of women, more the reporting and coverage of women in trials and women events.

It will. The filter cover pieces are different so make sure the 22 one comes with the cover

Also what width of chain did you put on. Ive seen people put mx chains on and the width has caused the split link to hit the chain tensioner arm

Sounds like a polarity issue. You definitely got the wires connected the right way round?

Sometimes the airbox can creak when you jump on the pegs, probably from the frame flexing a little. But it doesnt really sound like what you are describing.

It seems to be a problem thats mainly limited to the 125s. I doubt its a water ingress problem, the amount of failures that are out there indicates an inherent flaw in one of the components. Maybe you could get a lend of a TRS one to see how it runs with one fitted. Otherwise its a risk

I heard that GG were standing over them as they know its an issue. Failing that fit a trs one, have heard others having success with this

Nothing special about a 12/13, because nothing much has changed over the years. Frames basically all the same, changed to the current round tube in 2009. 2001 to 2008 had a more oval main tube. Check for any cracks around the head tube or any that have been welded up. I think the white framed ones around 2014 had a few frames crack. Steering geometry has stayed the same, unless the triple clamps changed. Forks changed from marzocchi to tech in 2016 i think but the Raga had them a couple years earlier. The marzocchis were a good fork. Same base engine throughout the years, the pro came in 2001. Ignition makes changed over the years so a bit of pot luck regards availability. The Raga/GP were slightly better specced as opposed to the standard/racing, with a better shock (Reiger or ohlins vs sachs) and forks (tech vs marz) and carb (keihin vs dellorto). If you're a clubman i would choose a cleaner standard model over a rougher raga/racing model every time. Id actually stay away from a raga because they have magnesium crankcases that sometimes broke or could be starting to corrode now. Very little difference performance wise. Personally id be looking for anything post 2010. The later frame, and from then the bikes have all been pretty reliable. Earlier years had variable clutch issues. Id pick what looks the best price wise for condition. And dont be swayed by a Raga or GP, unless a similar condition and price I may be slightly incorrect regarding naming, but for many years you had the txt pro and the raga edition. Then when he left i think it became the txt pro and the txt racing. Then they dropped the txt pro (marzocchi and dellorto model) and then had the txt racing and txt GP. Ive had a '10 '12 '15 '17 and a '21

Different ignition. This should be yours

Most likely they went to the rear mudguard light. What years your bike? Is it a txt or a txt pro?

Ive had five 300 ggs since 2010 and never had any problems bar general maintenance, but i know others who have had issues. The montesas are the most reliable. After that i think all the 2 strokes are a much of a muchness when it comes to reliability. They all have their flaws.

Relacing a wheel isn't that difficult especially when you can take pictures of the wheel spoke layout beforehand and also have the correct length spokes. The only measurement you need is the offset from the disc to the rim edge, and its only a trials bike, being a mm or two out isn't that critical. Even if you screw it up i doubt a shop would refuse to correct it for you. You could also replace the bearings, see the below link but if you're unsure about relacing a wheel, that may also be too daunting for you. Basically both wheels have the same outer bearing diameter but different inners for the spindle and different widths. If you can find bearings that are the same outer and width with only the inner difference then its a simple bearing swap. I think the link below contains one set of interchangeable bearing

What are you intending to do on the bike? Ride trails, blast up hills and the odd piece of technical riding to boost your enduro skills? If thats the case the 300 will be no problem for you. But if you intend to rider proper trials, slow speed and tight technical sections, your skill level will dictate that not only could a 300 not be as easy to control as a 250, you won't be good enough (yet) to take advantage of its more power. Theres good trials riders out there riding 250s and in no rush for 300s. 300s are really just reserved for experts. They are nice to bop about on, but in a section they just aren't as nice as a smooth 250. That being said, dont sweat the decision too much, neither will be majorly wrong and only you know what you really want from the bike. You'll find that out after a couple of months

At your size and relative bike ability i would totally rule out a 125. The 250 will be much closer to a 300 than a 125. I doubt you would get on a 250 and complain it hasn't enough power but if you've had a go on a 300 and it felt ok then go for it

If you're serious about him progressing then get a 125, kids flick them about so much better and feel more confident on them. That being said if he just likes riding about and you dont have the intention of him entering events he will probably have as much fun on the 250