faussy

From memory they were 1 mm, but I'm not 100% sure. Can you measure your squish with your 0.65mm gasket fitted?

If you want to do trials, buy trials tyres. If you want to do enduro, buy an enduro bike... Anything else is a compromise, and if you ride rocks, worse than a compromise

Youre a better man than me, seems they put more up on the app than they do their website. Very little info regarding team GB from both riders and the organising body

All i know is its this weekend and in spain. I cant find any info regarding teams, on any platforms or the trialgp page. Who are they? Team GB?

Can't really help I'm afraid. All I can say is the selection of trials bars is pretty limited. MX bars come in a far greater range of sweep angles and heights and riser clamps especially if your clamps are 7/8 size. Robert dunlop the road racer after his arm injury had both clutch and a thumb brake lever fitted on the same side of the bar

Keihin and I think an ohlins on the raga vs dellorto and a Sachs on the racing. IMO Id get the freshest bike he can get, the difference between the racing and raga is negligible. Agreed on the formula brakes above, the master cylinder seals disintegrated quickly, decent brake while they worked though. Check any magnesium crank cases for a broken bottom engine mount

If youre wanting to focus solely on hopping then id say maybe stay away from a 4rt as they are heavier, but they still arent impossible to hop

Definitely a bot, or a genuine person acting like a bot 😂 Some other 1st posts ive been suspicious about too, although not as obvious as the above.

Pack thickness effects the weight of the clutch. Maybe not four finger weight but ive certainly had gg clutches change from 1 to 2 finger weights solely due to pack thickness. Or more specifically, finger height

Plates swollen? Recheck your pack thickness. Check your centre bolt too

In my opinion they are both double blips, but the zap uses more aggressive use of the clutch and body movement on the second blip. Sometimes on a double blip i wouldnt even use the clutch on the second blip. When i do a double blip i have no real intention on the back wheel leaving the ground, it just rides up to and up the obstacle whereas the zap is solely about getting that back wheel to jump to the top of the obstacle. In general terms If the obstacle is flat on the top i almost always double blip. If it has a severe drop on the other side of it and i dont want to use the sump, ill zap. Thats just me though and certain distinct obstacles are better one way or the other. A fallen tree is the perfect example of why you would want to zap. Theres also another variation of the double blip that you very rarely see, whens theres an agressive use of the clutch and throttle on the first blip, and when the front wheel touches the object very little use of throttle and clutch because all the momentum has been built in the first blip and its 90% lifting with the body. You only see pros doing that and its rare

In short yes. The police wont view you any differently as the usual asbos on a mx'r or pitbike. The only thing in your favour is the trials bike being quieter it could take a while before someone reports you, but if the police turn up they could do anything from telling you to go away and dont come back, to impounding your bike. If this is a council forest near a town i doubt you could go long before a member of the public reports you, they arent that tolerant towards motorbikes, unless its electric, then you might stand a chance. Depends how much confrontation you want with the law BUMPY Ltd - On and Off Road Motorcycle Training School & Charity, West Yorkshire, Leeds, Bradford, Wakefield, Batley, Birstall, Kirklees areas. should be close, its legal to ride there. Not from the area so cant say for sure but theres other places too, you live in yorkshire afterall.

Then you must be drawing in air somewhere else, intake boot possibly

Is your slide fully closing?

During purchase? So the seller couldnt start it either? I hope you bought it as a non runner. Id start by taking the plug out and make sure its sparking on kickover

Is your frame cracked?

Try acerbis, they usally do good aftermarket plastics

Id go for the repair, youve nothing to lose considering buying a replacement is effectively scrapping it. Time serts are better than helicoils. Try it yourself if youre feeling up to it, or give it to a small machine shop

Between every trial you do that?! Usually after a power wash and dry my brake is as good as it was at the start of the trial, and if it isnt i go straight to the dousing with cold water. I would almost certainly say its the brake cleaner you are using. Is it general automotive stuff? Ive never cleaned a brake with that and it hasnt been crap after. I think its grand for car use where theres loads of oil and brake fluid around and then followed up with lots of heat to burn whatever residue it leaves behind off, but its never left a good sharp brake on my motorbike or mountainbike. Even rubbing your fingers across it afterwards it feels slightly slippery. You would probably be better just using pure IPA

I have the 250 version and i got to say that bike is very clean for its age, you can tell it hasnt done much. Normally id say £1000-1500 for that age of bike, but thats a particularly clean version , asking more would be justified

Thats a big enough change. Its also making it higher geared, for a 125 that may no be the thing. Are you trying to make 1st taller? I think 9/48 was the hot setup back then for 125s

It goes behind the piston.

They mentioned it in their list of changes, 'different geometry', and ive heard people say that they went steeper more beta like, which was the only way they could have went. Ive only had a short 5 minute ride on one of the new ones. I wasnt in a hurry to jump off it, and if someone hadnt of told me about the steering i probably wouldnt have noticed.

Agreed, having an ohlins was the thing in trials in the 00s. I was shocked when the gg came with an ohlins that year, talk about cost cutting!

Same here. They have steep steering, which is why some clubmen love them, they turn tight. If youre good enough to hop, then this isnt a deal breaker, as most of your turns arent made at full lock. The new GG has steeper steering than the pre 23 model. Still not as twitchy as a beta though. Im lucky enough to be rather tall so starting a gg isnt a big deal but i fully acknowledge they certainly arent the easiest