faussy

Is your slide fully closing?

During purchase? So the seller couldnt start it either? I hope you bought it as a non runner. Id start by taking the plug out and make sure its sparking on kickover

Is your frame cracked?

Try acerbis, they usally do good aftermarket plastics

Id go for the repair, youve nothing to lose considering buying a replacement is effectively scrapping it. Time serts are better than helicoils. Try it yourself if youre feeling up to it, or give it to a small machine shop

Between every trial you do that?! Usually after a power wash and dry my brake is as good as it was at the start of the trial, and if it isnt i go straight to the dousing with cold water. I would almost certainly say its the brake cleaner you are using. Is it general automotive stuff? Ive never cleaned a brake with that and it hasnt been crap after. I think its grand for car use where theres loads of oil and brake fluid around and then followed up with lots of heat to burn whatever residue it leaves behind off, but its never left a good sharp brake on my motorbike or mountainbike. Even rubbing your fingers across it afterwards it feels slightly slippery. You would probably be better just using pure IPA

I have the 250 version and i got to say that bike is very clean for its age, you can tell it hasnt done much. Normally id say £1000-1500 for that age of bike, but thats a particularly clean version , asking more would be justified

Thats a big enough change. Its also making it higher geared, for a 125 that may no be the thing. Are you trying to make 1st taller? I think 9/48 was the hot setup back then for 125s

It goes behind the piston.

They mentioned it in their list of changes, 'different geometry', and ive heard people say that they went steeper more beta like, which was the only way they could have went. Ive only had a short 5 minute ride on one of the new ones. I wasnt in a hurry to jump off it, and if someone hadnt of told me about the steering i probably wouldnt have noticed.

Agreed, having an ohlins was the thing in trials in the 00s. I was shocked when the gg came with an ohlins that year, talk about cost cutting!

Same here. They have steep steering, which is why some clubmen love them, they turn tight. If youre good enough to hop, then this isnt a deal breaker, as most of your turns arent made at full lock. The new GG has steeper steering than the pre 23 model. Still not as twitchy as a beta though. Im lucky enough to be rather tall so starting a gg isnt a big deal but i fully acknowledge they certainly arent the easiest

To me, its the same as buying an audi and then having a loyal bmw nut asking you why didnt you buy a bmw. Half the people who say that dont even know why they are riding a beta 250 themselves, they are only riding it because their mate told them theyre the most popular bike. Same goes for montesa, gg owners etc. Personally, i dont like the way they steer, or the engine, but some people love the flat power delivery and some love the way they steer (mostly people who cant hop, because they have the smallest turning circle). If youve had a beta 200 youve experienced close enough to first hand what a beta 250 will be like. I wouldnt worry a thought about what other people say, in fact if youve had a mix of bikes you may find youre more qualified to compare bikes than the people saying. Some people are so brand loyal they wont even have a ride on another make if someone offers them a go, yet are still adamant the bike they ride is the best. Beta are also the cheapest out of the crate (in the UK at least), that may have more effect on numbers than some people want to admit. No harm in trying a test ride on one though

Is john lee close to you? https://www.johnleemotorcycles.co.uk/

I found my sidis were stiff, but i now have a pair of alpinestars and while comfier they seem to have a thicker sole with more cushion

Why would you want stiff boots? Stiff boots dont mean good protection btw

It depends largely on terrain, and from what i know about the type of terrain lemur rides i can understand why he uses 3rd a lot. Personally im in 1st a lot more frequently than 3rd. Did you enjoy seeing toby on the mont @lineaway?

The oiled balance gaernes are full grain leather. Their coloured boots are lorica, and so are sidis, but i think the inside of the calf on the sidis is leather. The sidis are not a confortable boot IMO, because of the lorica, possibly. The lorica gaernes are also inferior to the full grain version. In saying that, the gaernes are still a decent boot. Infact i think i remember way back hearing graham jarvis used to prefer the lorica version because they were stiffer. Alpinstars and forma are leather. The gaernes could be your only option, and in fairness, not a bad option Looks like the hebos could be at the very least part synthetic, hard to tell if its 100% syn https://www.dirtbikexpress.co.uk/products/hebo-tech-30-micro-black-trials-boots?variation=502510&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjww_iwBhApEiwAuG6ccM5-fZc_Fbr0Nd5ZxWjdzE8JmqIzT79DY3tydbkzrYBXXK70aw8iyBoC004QAvD_BwE

I edited the above just to help with link loading

The answer to your question is kind of yes and no What angle are your handlebars at? Most pros run their bars very far forward due to them spending most of their time on the back wheel. For general riding this adds a lot of weght to the wrists, though i doubt youve copied their bar positions. Looking at the bike from the side id aim for the part of the bars going up from the clamps to be roughly vertical, ie slightly foward from the projected line of the fork legs, but lesser riders tend to have them further back than this. Further forward is only useful for trick riding. Its really not the forwardness of the bars but how far back the footrests are on modern bikes that puts the weight through your arms. Most bike post 90 have similar riding positions. I actually find some 80s 90s bike worse for this because their footrest are just as far back but with a higher position than modern bikes. You could be riding too much in attack mode like you would when standing on an enduro or mx bike. Youre kind of holding onto the bars for dear life so to speak. As you improve, your relaxed riding stance may become a bit more straight backed, which relieves weight from the bars. In tight turns you want to position your weight preferentially over the front, but when riding straight you want to have most of your weight over the rear wheel through your legs. 90% of trials is about rear wheel grip and a light front end. If your arms are sore it sounds like youre loading the front end too much of the time

A villiers based james/FB is a good bet if you want to go 2 stroke

Your initial list is pretty good tbh. I wouldnt put too much stress on being able to static balance, moreso being able to ride super slow with the clutch in a controlled manner. I think it important being able to turn your bike in full lock while on relatively flat ground, which is virtually impossible without the use of some clutch and brake work. As for zapping/splatting, it all depends on the shape of the ledge or rock. You can still touch front rocks up to 6ft, but there becomes a point splatting is better. Splatting isnt really necessary for obstacles below 4ft, but you have to start practicing them on something, so may as well be on the small stuff.

You dont say if you find your 300 too powerful. Given the age, its probably equivalent to a newish 250 regarding power. Depends what your intentions are. If its to do tight technical stuff id say keep it small, 250. If you want to ride it more like a trail bike, a montesa would maybe suit better. Getting a more modern bike will benefit you most with its lighter weight when it comes to hopping the bike around. Doesnt sound like you are at that stage yet. Will a new bike help? Yes, but for general riding around, clubman level riding and below, not that much

Put an electric start on it https://www.greenlandmx.co.uk/en/electric-start-kit-txt-pro-contact/ET80001CT-CKW-1.html Only £1500 😀

Theres no need to buy the complete inner and outter parts. AFAIK the s3 insert fits the standard 2023 style outter part. Id doubly check though. The inner part retails for around £60