First of all, I do not have an OKO carb but have Three PWK 28's and they are Awesome carbs if you keep your fuel clean. The OKO is a Keihin PWK copy and they are supposed to be very good quality, there are also copies of the OKO....which are supposed to be horrid with shoddy built quality and are marketed as an OKO and often sold cheaper...just a heads up here, be careful.. Try atlantic trials in usa, site is informative and good prices
I have Gaerne balance oiled and they are Awesome boots...water resistant too. Also have a pair of Sid Zero, which are another Great boot...but not h20 resistant at all.
Is the taper on the end of drain screw rusty or not smooth, as this will prevent a proper seal when snugged in. One other thing to check, I am not familiar with the bsr33, but on some other carbs the float bowl overflow tube also tee's internally into the same exit spout as the drain (obviously, on threaded out side of drain screw taper)....
Hi, there are supposed to be two in front flange of the muffler,there are grooves machined inside...maybe they are missing or just not visable (often gooped with sealant).. If your pipe has been bashed..you might have to wrap a rag around it and grip it gently in a bench vise and ''adjust'' it slightly with a rubber mallet, block of wood or something handy...?Maybe a piece of 2x4 as pry bar to open the bend ever so slightly...?? (the o rings should not be black rubber, should be red hi temp silicone type) You can do it, after all its just a simple motorbike Do you have Sherco dealership close by you , that you can visit...
Its not uncommon for the header pipes to get bashed during its life, this can deform them slightly and mess up the alignment. Copemech is giving you Great advice, You can take this a step farther by removing the silicone o ring seals from the muffler flange and ''trial'' fit it to see how it fits up before final assembly...dont forget to reinstall the orings before final assembly.
Make sure you get the seals installed the right way....tension springs have to be towards the fluid side that the are sealing in....and the bearing has to be on the transmission side of the oil seal....the factory parts diagram I have seen shows the bearing between the two seals, which is not correct. Hope you get rolling again soon Oh ya, welcome to trialscentral
Often the kill switch wires along the handlebars get pinched and short out...would look at this or completely unplug it before checking anything else...Your starting your girlfriend out on a 321...?
The only way your new Jitsie mixture screw can alter your tickover speed is by changing your mixture setting from previous...probably towards lean side. So either that has happened or you tweeked your throttle stop screw whilst digging around under there.
Its too late now for your plugged pilot jet, but : (not a sales pitch here) honda sells a spray can of carb/combustion cleaner.....I was given a can by a friend to try. It really works well, have sprayed into a little containers and soaked Very stubborn bike jets with perfect results, even soaked my oil furnace jet overnight and the crapola that dissolved out of it was amazing...and worked perfectly afterwords. Good stuff, could be cheaper than buying new jets or reaming them with a drill bit....
There are so many variables, what you are using as a ''base point'', set up ,oil, etc, etc..the best thing for you to do is to actually try some different bikes with the clutch your looking to ....buy?
Another one discouraged enough to leave? Pretty hard with an amazing rider like Bou outriding everyone, Honda building him unlimited budget Factory works machines just makes him that much more untouchable....
I am thinking if your shift drum is locked up....your gonna have to break it in half. Its not as big a deal as you might think....may want to get your cheque book ready though..Could be a good time to replace mains / seals as well while its on the operating table. Good luck
Saddened to see pics of your poor Beta:( First pic sure shows quite a bit of rust and pitting on the steel components...hope the bearings etc are...immune . Best of luck there
There has been some complaints about the undersized rear rim on some or all machines....Cannot effectively keep air in them...I believe you must run a Michelin as its a little tighter than other brands?
Just looks like a small casting flaw/ void from manufacturer that the paint or thin bit of aluminum may have chipped off of by looking at your pic. As long as there is not coolant leaking out of it, I would not get bent out of shape worrying about it, same with the head bolt material, its not a big deal ...just use oem recommended coolant and get out and ride
Its a shame owners buy new bikes and have to deal with this problem of tire and rim sizing standards in the industry...which should be a non-issue. It seems to be in line with the times, endless recalls and poor designs, manufacturers failing to stand behind the products because they already got paid. What is the answer? Stop buying from the shoddy outfits and encouraging the poor practices??
The ''Tampon''...... is clearly Ohlins...... the shock looks like an Olle to me. Boy...that is one nasty spot for a fuel hose down beside the chain and rear tire...no way around it with the design though
Do you have Sherco dealership close by you , that you can visit...
Oh ya, welcome to trialscentral
Sherco engine noise?..
in Sherco
Posted
Sloppy piston, con rod bearings I am thinking....rebuild time. Hope you did not pay too much for your new bike.