brownie001

You'll probably find more than you'll ever need on SWM Tech Specs in another thread here, http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/59537-technical-spec-for-all-swm-models/

Does 'Pimp my ride' live on ......... Take a look at Chefe's 320 TL, lot's of work gone into that...... http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/garage/vehicle/1120-swm-tl-320/

Hi Patrik, well after a discussion some tome ago with Reinhard Hallat, he told me that a nice engine had been spoilt by them putting the clutch from a 1925 Hercules onto it. Also, the testers back then were all big guys and also the sections and riding techniques were a lot different to those used today. The clutch was only used at the beginning and end of any given section so one or two finger actuation was not a factor to be considered. I'm happy with the clutch as it is, I was just hoping that the time, expense and effort would have brought more.

Ok, got the bike put together, fired it up and pulled in the clutch and kicked in first gear. The clutch actuator mods were a little bit disappointing, although that said, I don't know what the clutch was like beforehand. It's not a one, two or three finger clutch. It's heavier than that of my 125 but still not so bad if you ride clutchless as I do. Anyway, the clutch separated ice cold, so full points there. It also is nice and slipable so the kevlar plates would seem to be doing what they should. I can't say if there was any slip in the higher gears as I was not happy with the sounds the engine was making. More to come.......

Certainly looks the part from what can be seen on the pictures.

Hi swm, thanks for the very detailed explanation. If I ever get round to some hardcore tuning, I'll be in touch. At the moment though, I will be more than happy with the engine if it runs cleanly after the rebuild. Still not got the bike completely back together. Ciao, Phil

Keep it down b40rt, don't make it too obvious that any form of motorsport is dangerous. The next step will be 'Speedway' type fully enclosed wheels leading on eventually to fully enclosed 'Egg' bodywork and the sections being caged in with F1/NASCAR style debris protection fencing. Most of us learned as kids that things spinning fast should be left alone until they stop. The old addage of 'Common sense prevails' just get overruled sometimes by someone trying to help and that's the saddest part.

Hi, there are so many different permutations and who know's what's been tried with your clutch ? Normally there are six of each. The stack height is usually around 32mm. The outer plain plate is usually 0,5 to 1 mm thicker than the others. With time, the standard friction material swells up apparently, thus causing the drag. The fact that the clutch usually drags when cold even with new plates seems to say it has not really much to do with the age of the plates themselves. The clutch action is for most people a little heavy in action. Not really a problem if you ride classic nonstop and clutchless. I have a set of sintered plates in my 125. They are made by Surflex in Italy. I wanted to put the same in my 320 but I have not been able to find any off shelf. Surflex will be producing again in October/November thy say. Sintered plates soak up no oil, clutch separation is 100% even when ice cold. As good as no wear and therefore the same bitepoint day in day out. Standard springs, no slip in any of the higher gears, Magura lever, Venhill cable, clutcharm lengthened by 10mm, wetcluch 75w oil and the clutch is also pretty light. I've put Barnett Engineering Kevlar frictionplates in the 320. Also made some clutch mods documented elswhere. Same lever/cable and Rockoil gearbox oil this time. Still rebuilding the bike so I can't say how that combination works......soon hopefully.

Hi, if Martins not got any of the bits you need, try here........http://www.swm-moto.services/ I got almost everything I needed which I couldn't get elsewhere. Good luck, Phil

Oh yeah, twostrokes running in reverse. There was a Bond three wheeler which had a thing called Dynastart. Allowed you to start the engine in reverse and you then had the same amount of gears in reverse as forward when the engine was running normally. Scary when you think of it.

Now that's interesting. The arm you have is made of steel and has been lengthened by probably 10 mm. That was a well known mod on the original actuator arms. The one I have, which is an Aprilia part, is diecast ally, so a little more difficult to extend if required. There certainly are more than one way to skin a cat !

Gentlemen, many thanks to you all for your helpful answers. For me to achieve a 1mm squish gap, I would need to remove both of the shims currently in place and either find/make a thinner cylinder base gasket or machine the top of the cylinder down. The two shims are 0,47 mm together so around 1.4 mm sould be somewhere within the tolerances mentioned. I will be using the standard timing of 2.6 to 2.8 mm BTDC, pump petrol mixed to 50:1, as used in my 125. Phil

Hi, does anybody know what squish gap I should have on my Rotax 280 cc motor ? I have 1,8 mm at present but I'd like to know just exactly what the upper and lower limits are. Many thanks in advance,

Hi, I'll let you know once the plates have arrived and I've put them in. I picked up my modified clutch case yesterday .

Just incase anyone is interested, I have been looking around for some non organic clutch plates for my 280 cc Rotax rebuild. Found some at Barnett Engineering which should fit the bill just nicely and have had the fact confirmed by them too. You can find them here.... http://www.barnettclutches.com/can-am.html Friction plates are #301-22-10001, $12.65 each. Steels are #410-37-047001, $6.52 each. Specify quantities. Shipping is extra. You can order on-line at www.barnettclutches or call order desk at 805-642-9435, M-Th, 8am-4pm, Pacific time. Parts are good in stock, the frictions are made with our Kevlar friction material, aluminum core. Steels are tempered steel, the ones we make are 1.2mm thick but I’m sure they will work fine. I wanted to use Surflex sintered ones but there are none available until November apparently (someone might have a set tucked away somewhere though), they also wanted €178 for a set. So there you go.

I tried this Giannelli on my 125 for a while. I liked it, was a little louder than the standard box and I felt that the motor was a bit livelier. Now have the standard box back on as too many people past comments regarding the modern looks and the noise.

FYI, the arm, spring, retaining plate and ball bearings are all Aprilia parts, it just the round plate at the back which sits on the original ramp tops (this is not true, check out the Barnett clutches thread for the documented pictures) in the casing which has been specially made. It also has ramps cast into it for the three large ball bearings. AP0259325 that's the part number for the arm b.t.w. Yes indeed, the site is full of interesting stuff, glad you like it, hope you find what you're looking for too. Tschau, Phil

Here, http://www.swm-moto.net/en/?jjj=1455288193313 Used to be here, http://www.swm-moto.org/ Registro storico SWM It's quite a long winded process, you get shown a list of parts, you tell them what you want, they check the availability and quote you a price, you pay, they send. The guy I dealt with was one Mauro Sironi, a relative of the SWM founder Piero ?

Thanks Martin

Hi, has anybody out there had any experience with this type of clutch actuator ? Does it make a big difference or none at all to the lightness of the clutch ?

I can't get the mail to accept the pdf concerned ?!? dellorto_motorcycle_carburetor_tuning_guide.pdf

It wasn't the and#39;blackbox' I found some other interesting information regarding the Dell'orto PHB carbs and what's used when and where. So, I reduced the idle valve jet size, when do you run at full throttle for long periods nowdays with a not street legal bike ? Anyway, you live and learn, Added the pdf in a later entry. Worth reading for anyone with carb probs.

Hi Chrisb1504, just for info, were the Surflex plates you used the kevlar mix or the sintered ones ? Thanks, Phil

Hi Gordo, if you're interested, take a look here, http://www.motoswm.com/ Martin has a nice site and is really helpful and in the know in regard to anything SWM.

Here's my 81 TLNW 125.