brownie001

Hi Stan Wellback, The handler I bought the Geckos from, told me that they were the ideal tyres for my bike, weight and application. He was, apparently, involved in the R&D of the tyres. In the meantime, Golden Tyre had stopped it's trial tyre production. Whether or not they have restarted or not I don't know. Wierd thing is, the Gecko was a real pain to get onto the rim, I expected it to sit sooooo tight. The IRC was a doddle to get on the rim and I am really surprised at how well it sits even after running some real low pressures.

Couldn't have put it better b40rt. I've got a Golden Tyre Gecko 355 on the rear of my 125. Really good as far as grip is concerned but the thing just won't sit on the rim even with two rimlocks. No big prob at very low speed but terrible at anything in 3rd upwards. The IRC on my 320 was an easy fit and has stayed put ever since. Both are on the standard Akront rims.

Hi, here's my 'Rat' idling today as a reference (maybe) ;o] I forgot to add that the rear box has been modded as documented elswhere. The guts have been ripped out and replaced with a perforated tube and repacked. Makes a simple absorber out of it and saves a lot of weight. Feels nicer lowdown and is a bit more responsive. Getting there with the mods. The big build might come soon or maybe even not.

Nice clobber. Some good stuff to be found here too http://www.vintageracewear.co.uk/

Hi Reginald, little things........Glad you got it sorted.

Hi, here's a picture of the Venhill clutch cable and the length of the inner. This cable fits my 80 125 with a lengthened arm and my 81 320 with the Aprillia arm conversion ( see separate threads for pics, Barnett Clutches). The clutch lightness is ok but it's not a one/two finger thing. A hardly use it anyway so that's not a problem for me. I discussed the drag problem with Reinhard Hallat of Rotax.de and his suggestion was to use non organic sintered clutch plates. That's what's in the 125 and the clutch separates 100% when stone cold. I wanted the same, from Surflex in Italy, for the 320 when I rebuilt it. None were available at that time so I opted for Barnett carbon fibre plates. They also separate 100% when stone cold. The best solution for a really light clutch would be the Aprillia casing. Hens teeth are more common nowdays. Next best solution is the lever on top of the engine as per the Jumbos. Easy to do and not at all expensive. Even cheaper is ride sections nonstop and clutchless. That's another story though.

Hi and of course welcome, http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/61362-199b-rebuild-help-required-please/ Browse before you ask. Simple rule, someone has usually posted the same question. Phil

Hi big_e, this guy says 'order what you want', http://www.bultaco.de/bultaco/bultaco-bestell.php Could be worth a try. This guys http://www.buerkmayer.de/Bultaco.htm got this on offer

Guys. the point is, I have two bikes, 81 is embossed on the manufacturers plate, I ordered the cables accordingly and only the clutch cables fit, the others were way, way off. I have, in the between time, brake cables received which fit and modified the delivered throttle cables to fit. Venhill offer a lot of cables for a lot of bikes, I don't want to try them all till I find one which fits. I want the one I order to be the one which fits according to the make, model, year and category offered online. That and only that is the point I am trying to make, nothing else. So john.b, why should I order a cable for an 82/83 model when my bikes both have 81 on the manufacturers plate ?

Hi Metisse, on the Venhill site, www.Venhill.co.uk lookup the cable you require and any cable with F/L in the PN uses a Teflon (PTFE) liner.

Hi Patrick, as already stated, ' Removed the outer to expose 145 mm of inner, works fine'. Next time I'll give them the measurements and not simply accept what they have on offer ;o]

Hi Patrick, Domino 90 deg trial throttle and standard Dellorto carbs on both bikes. The cable for the 125 is nowhere near what it needs to be. They are in total ok but the sheath needs to be shortened in both cases. The right one was selected when ordered. Same with the clutch and brake cables. The clutch cables were no problem. I have both types of cable anchors for Marzocchi forks and tried them both out, neither worked. In the end, I ordered front brake cables for the earlier models and they fit perfectly.

Hi Petert, did just that. Removed the outer to expose 145 mm of inner, works fine. b40rt, I would have but I wanted to bling the bikes up a bit with yellow cables. Martin only has black ones on offer. C'est la vie !

Hi, has anybody out there had problems with Venhill cables ? I ordered clutch, throttle and frontbrake cables for my 81 125 and 320 and have had the following problems. The brake cables were too short and could not be fitted to the bikes any way even though the cables listed were for Marzocchi forks. The throttle cables fit as long as you only connect one end. The inner is too short or the outer too long on both, whichever way you look at it. The brake cable issue has been solved. Venhill changed them, no problem but now I'm trying to get the throttle cable problem solved. The picture shows the throttle end with the carb end in place. Even when all of the adjusters are screwed right in and the cable is pulled to the max (full throttle), it can't be hooked up completely.

Hi, they look identical to the SWM parts I have but having said that, aftermarket products don't usually have the exact same form as the OEM's do. Try Googling the manufacturer and PN's.

Hi Motopelli, that could help explain my wife's attitude to me spending too much time with my SWM's ;o]

Hi Petorius, I dare say there are ways and means but I thought that I am not the first person to rebuild some SWM wheels and someone out there would know the answer. For the record, I centred the rims, the rear looks fine but the front is just a bit too close to the righthand fork leg. Not much in it, about 5 mm is all it is. Could also be my bad centre calculation. Ciao, Phil

Simple answer really, if you are happy with the grip you've got, keep it. If not, buy a new one.

Almost there. After a complete rebuild, the engine is a dream, the pegs have been lowered and moved back, The bars have been raised as well. The forks have got HFS inserts and the rear shocks are new NJB's. All in all it's a dream to ride. All I need to do now is tart it up a bit or leave looking like a rat !

Gentlemen, many thanks for your comments and thoughts. Cheers, Phil

Hi, it's not a grease nipple, sorry for the picture quality, it looks like a bleed nipple but I've never seen an SWM Rotax with one before so it could well be a motor from an Aprilia. I don't have the bike so I can't take any better pictures. If it is an Aprilia motor, there should be a tube leading to the carb/airbox should there not ? There isn't so theoretically, it should be blanked off should it not ?

Hi, has anybody seen this before. Is it an official mod or has someone been trying something out ?

Hi, I've had the simple Clubman setup, no cartridge, on my 125 for a while now. The original springs were a bit old in the tooth and due to my riding weight of 100 Kg's +, I wanted to be able to set up some preload without just simply lobbing spacers in. When I ordered I was asked for my weight and when the kit came, I was told where to start with the preload. It was spot on from the word go. The feel is really nice. There two different springs in each tube allowing a nice soft 2/3rds travel with the last 1/3rd hardening up quite a bit. Mick Andrews tried it last year and was quite impressed with the simpleness of the solution.

Hi, Im in the process of rebuilding the wheels on my 81 TLNW 320. What I forgot to do before stripping them was to check if the rim was in the middle of the hub or offset to one side. Anybody able to help ? Thanks, Phil

Hi Reginald, as we all know, it's easier to get things wrong than it is to get things right. i had similar with my 125 and it turned out to be a simple misunderstanding. The idle mixture screw is in this case for fuel and not for air. Screw it all the way home and then back out 1 and a half turns to start with. Then screw in the idle screw so as the motor runs at a higher idle speed than normal. That is of course if it will when you turn the choke off. If it won't run without the choke then there is something else amiss. Did you replace anything such as the needle, needle valve, float assembly ? Have you checked the float level ? Did you replace all of the small O rings on the idle/mixture screws ? What about the fuelline/filter ? Did you rebuild the carb referencing an exploded view making sure that all of the components were in place ?