brownie001

You can do so many different things, first up would be don't use or reduce the use of the clutch. Pretty much impossible but still an option. Excercise and nutrition. Excercise for obvious reasons but the nutrition side gets overlooked. Most of us don't really watch what we eat and tend to have a very high base acidic level. Too much red meat and plonk. If you don't want too start saying no to things, try taking natron. Simply mix it in water and add it to your daily intake. Helped me a lot. Last option, improve the mechanical side of things. Loads of ways and things to try from levers, cables, servos, etc. Lots of pickin and fussin about. Last option which will work 100% but cost a lot is one of these systems, http://www.clake.com.au/ Good luck with whatever rout/s you choose.

Hi, Rolf would appear to want to get the bike road registered again which is next to impossible in Germany due to the safety and emission laws if the papers are missing and the bike has not been registered within the last 7 years(I think). What he needs is a copy of a set of bike registration papers for a bike which is currently registered. He can then present these to the local vehicle registration office and get his bike registered with the same data, different bike specifics such as engine and frame serial numbers, and with a new set of registration documents.

Hi, I've found this on a Fanny-Barnett forum which might be of some help, with a 32A engine used the following settings which gave easy starting and trouble free running, including a reliable tick over. Amal Concentric Carburettor setting for Villiers 250 Trials Engine Bore - 1 1/16", Pilot - 20, Cutaway - 3.5, Main Jet - 400, Needle Jet - 0.106, Needle Position - 3.

Newfren GF.0200_AFTR their socalled Antiaqua PN for almost all Grimeca hubbed Trials Bikes.

Oh yeah, good point. It is in fact a short wheel base model, the Maxi is longer, I don't know off hand by how much, 40 to 60 cm's I would think. I was tempted but the colour of this one got me ;o]

Hi, I've got an ex german post Caddy. You can get two bikes in it easily, I have had three in it as well but that needs a bit of fiddling. Here's a picture showing how much room there is with just one bike loaded.

Hi b40rt and all, sure, that's one of the reasons why I went for adjustable rear shocks, to be able to make some minor steering geometry changes without having to chop the frame. I also have a couple of spare frames so if the bolt on mods don't do what's required, out with the plasma cutter etc.

Hi. Here's a pic of my modified TLNW320. It's also in the thread 'Show me your Twinshocker'. Anyway, the steering angle has not been modified. The pegs have been moved down and back, the bars have been raised and as you can see, the rearend has been lifted. The distance center to center of the rear shocks is now 375mm. It turns on a sixpence so I personally see no need to mod the steering angle drastically. Each to his own though. a mod which works for me, might not work for you and vice versa. I'm 1,83m and tip the scales kitted out at around 105Kg. The shocks are the latest on offer from NJB by the way, cost ca. €170.

The dry theory of it is as follows. 'For example, if the atmospheric pressure is 14.7 psi and the compression ratio is 11:1, the equation to solve for the psi is (14.7*11)/1. Therefore, the answer is 161.7 psi. People use this method of calculation to determine the pounds per square a piston produces'. So there we have it, not the most precise and exact way but an indication that 100 PSI is way too low. Whether a little lie or just sales strategy, I am happy with what I have bought. Anyway, Martin Mathews of MotoSWM has told me he can supply all of the oversize pistons so I just need to find out what size I need. It won't be before Christmas though.

The guy should be given the cat !

Hi Patrik, spoke to Reinhard today. No problem if the gudgeon pin is 18mm in diaameter, 15 mm is a different story. Mine is 18 mm ]

Took the head off yesterday and there is too much piston movement so it looks like a rebore is due. I need to get the cylinder measured up first to find out what oversize piston is required. Does anybody have any reliable sources for aftermarket 125 pistons ?

Well, the engine starts hot or cold first kick. Idles fine and, for a 125, pulls well but it still soots up the plug. That said, the reason I though about the compression test in the first place was because it takes little effort to kick it into life. Maybe a visit to the Bosch Service center is not a bad idea at all. Have to have a think on what the next step should be. Thanks to you all. Seasons greetings. Phil

Ok so here we go again. The engine had low use, I was informed. The timing is spot on, is there much you can do wrong with CDI ? I've renewed the crank seals, disc valve O ring, intake rubber, carb, carb to intakebox rubber filter, blackbox(coil), HT lead, plug and cap, fuel. The last resort was to check the comp ratio. Is 100 PSI too low or not ? There are lots of IF's, Else's, Maybe's and trythis's in the equation, agreed. There must be someone with a clean knowledge of he ROTAX 125 TL engine who can say 100 PSI is good or not without going into the if's , but's, when's and could be's ! I mean, the things are not new on the market are they.......

Jeez turbohead, I don't want to go into Quanten physics, thermo dynamics, aero dynamices etc, etc. I know it's complicated with two strokes, primary and secondary comrprssions and the rest but there must be someone out there that has gone through all of the rigmerole and can say that 'yes' 100 PSI for a 125 Rotax is in the ball park or 'No' your engine is knackered. The engine is warm under normal running conditions and that's how it was tested. Due to the gearing you can't push the bike in 2nd, 3rd or probably even 4th for that matter. Nevertheless, many thanks for your tips, advice, opinions and experiences.

Great day out yesterday at the Kerzenheim Nikolaus trial. Took the 125 along and got it warmed up nicely to be able to check the compression. I saw 100 PSI on the guage. I was expecting around 150 PSI as the motor is supposed to have a 9,5:1 compression ratio. Can The 100 PSI be interpreted as a very low compression or are there other factors to be taken into account ? Thanks in advance......

Hi Martin, yep sure did. I have the specsheet from the Registro Storico web site. The carb was also built to the spec found there too.

I thought it was only us old bike fans who are plagued with sooty and not sweep plugs ! My 81 SWM 125 has the same problem but not after tickover but generally. Everything, to my knowledge , is spot on even a brand new carb. Soots the plug up ad conks out. If I then clean he plug with a Gunston plug cleaner (sand blaster) it works again. Same with the 280 cc motor until I changed the carb, it now runs well and the plug colour is just right. Last thing I want to check on the 125 is the compression. It kicks over tooooo easly but then again they should. We shall see. As far as the mixture is concerned, I tried going down on the idle jet, main jet and dropping the needle. Made no real difference until it was running way too lean---that was the reason for the new carb. To be continued......

Hi Pschrauber, not much you can do wrong with the 125 timing, the inake rubber is new, the foam filter has been renewed and oiled as needed with a very light film. Nevertheless, I'm now taking nothing for granted and will go through the A to Z at the weekend and check everything again until I find what's wrong, maybe ?

Hi Iconic558, bear in mind the carb is brand spankin new supplied to spec as per the original from 81. All was checked over before installing it. Everything is spot on with the carb. That's what's so frustrating really. It could be lots of things, most of them have been checked and double checked or renewed. I've had loads of good advice and more than enough 'I once had...' Believe me, I've done everything which has been suggested. All I need now is for someone to tell me that I have to sprinkle horse hair over a toad while its sitting on the bike and I need to be drinking a warm brown ale stood on one leg under a full moon and I'll try that as well ;o] Like I said earlier, I'll get there in the end....

Hi Turbohead, I picked and fussed around with the original carbs and settings on both bikes. The 320 engine is completely rebuilt and the 125 is very low mileage but the carb was from the original high use engine. The 280 is now spot on. As for the 125, no points involved, CDI black box. Have a new spare which made no difference. After a long mail exchange with Martin Mathews, he told me that in his experience, the motors run best with the standard carb spec's which is what I have for both new ones and of course the old ones too but there the bodies are original of course. So there you go, the search goes on....I'll get there one day ;o]

Hi, first up Iconic558. Both bikes are vintage 81, no reeds involved. Now Pschrauber, the video was filmed on the 320. There is no problem with that anymore. The 125 is a different matter, it has to be revved, it hasn't got the low down grunt of the 280 cc engine. I do tend to open the throttle a lot more on that. Even after getting the thing really nice and warm and running up and down the access road a couple of time, the plug stays black and sooty. I'll get there in the end but it's prooving to be a difficult thing to solve up to now.

Hi, I fitted new carbs to my bikes and did some testing on Sunday morning. Also tried my action cam out for the first time. The 320 is sorted but the 125 still soots up the plug after a short while. I'm scratchin my head and a few other places besides. The carb is brand new, original spec. I have fresh 102 octane with no methanol mixed at 50:1 full synthetic oil. The exhaust has been cleaned and the middle box repacked. The timing is spot on and a brand new NGK BP5ES plug. The filter is clean, there are no leaks, new crank seals. To be continued...........

Hi pmk, Composite race/road wheels use 7 mm bolts and can be found in all sorts of head forms. BBS for example but there are an awful lot of aftermarket tuners/customizers to be found. They are also available in titanium and if you want, gold plated.

Nice reading. Shows that back in the 70's a lot was undertaken and understood. If you Google about a bit, you can find some more recent test's regarding premix oil ratios. I personally like this companies attitude and products. http://www.maximausa.com/powersports/ There are some pretty conclusive tech papers and videos to be found there. I have no personal interest in the company whatsoever.