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  1. I use Motul 10W 30 transoil in the clutch 200 ml SAE 75/90 gearbox oil 300 ml. Clutch drag is more normally the issue on a 247 Cota. Make sure you have enough free play on the clutch cable and the clutch is not already partially engaged. If you have replaced the bronze pusher at all that the clutch arm operates on if you use one with a larger length it may preload the clutch too. I suspect it is more likely to be weakened clutch springs that have lost length and strength over the years. If the oil change and flush out do not solve the issue the clutch casing will have to come off and check everything is to factory specification. I have a manual if you need any figures.
  2. That is very often the trade off with electronic ignition. Easier starting,better ignition advance curve but a loss of power and rougher running at really low RPM. I was quite happy with this trade off to get rid of the points and condensor.
  3. These guys have most of what you need for a Montesa Cota 247 . In motion trials https://www.inmotiontrials.com/product-category/parts/twinshock/montesa/ They have the 56mm tank badges. The decals you can get from ebay but for the made in spain label and the premix ratio sticker it is £11 delivered from a Spanish guy. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?_odkw=&_ssn=hielorojo&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1311&_nkw=montesa&_sacat=0 You can refurbish your Amal with parts from http://amalcarb.co.uk/?SID=2o5n1al9la4am5vg1s7lnukvl3&___store=amal Burlen carbs. You can purchase a brand new Amal 26mm premium carb which is a Mk 1 with the stay up float,viton float needle and solid brass carb slide. If you want to refurbish your Mk 1 Amal they have all the bits. In motion do the 26mm Mikuni and conversion parts if you don,t need originality. If your carb has a tickler button on the side it is a Mk1 if it has a choke it is a Mk 1.5. Hope you find what you need.
  4. Hi,i have the Electrex world electronic ignition fitted to my 1977 Montesa Cota trail. Fitting it was fairly simple althogh do make sure the flywheel they supply is lapped to the crankshaft with some valve grinding paste and there is no damage on the end of the crank as the Woodruff key only locates the flywheel in the correct position and the fit of the flywheel is the taper and securing nut. I just nipped up the stator screws and refitted the flywheel and checked the timing marks with the piston at top dead centre(checked with a TDC tool fitted instead of a spark plug to get it accurate) I set mine at 21 degrees before top dead centre and it starts within a couple of kicks and first kick when hot. These Montesas will start at anywhere between 20-27 degrees btdc but the factory setting with points is 21 degrees BTDC so thats what i went with. The spark plug gap needs to be a bit wider than with a points equipped bike. I went with 0.7mm. You need a good earth so make sure the paint or powder coating is scraped off where the coil is fitted and the wire to the frame. Strangely enough you get a slightly stronger spark at low RPM with the original ignition but high RPM and the inbuilt ignition curve on electronic ignition is where the benefit is. Also you will rarely if at all need to remove the flywheel again. When you fit the flywheel nut ensure it is torqued to 72lb/ft although i used an electric impact wrench so may have overdone it a bit! Last point is never assume your new spark plug is a good one,i use NGK or nipon denso. I used a champion plug on a bike once and it was defective out of the box and i went round in circles trying to find the problem and there are some fake NGK plugs on the market too. If the bike has stood a long time without running i would give the carb a good clean as well and it it takes a lot of kicks to start and then produces a lot of white smoke and your gearbox or clutch oil level drops without reason i would suspect the crankshaft oil seals have worn. If you have lost a bit of compression check the valve in the decompressor is not sticking open or your piston rings are not worn. Just work methodically through the list and hopefully you will get your bike to a one kick starter. If you have the Mk 1 Amal carb operate the tickler button a few times,kick the bike once slowly to get a bit of fuel in the cylinder then give the bike a full swing from full compression and hopefully it will start ok.
  5. I was thinking of using ATF but i ended up using Motul 10W 30 transoil in the clutch housing 200ml and in the gearbox i used Motul 75W/90 gear oil 300ml. I have the later Cota 247 with the clutch actuator arm on the top of the engine case. Neutral is a bit hard to find and the clutch drags very slightly but i suspect the brass pad is worn that the clutch actuator pushes on so i will look at that next time i have the case off.
  6. Fresh fuel mixed at the recommended ratio. If you are unsure try 33:1 semi synthetic two stroke. Ignition timing on the 348 is 17.5 degrees before top dead centre. When you remove the flywheel to check the timing check the crankshaft is not damaged and lap the flywheel to the crank for a perfect fit as the woodruff key is only to locate the flywheel in the correct position. The flywheel nut is left hand thread and torqued to 72 lb ft. When you re-install the nut it looks like it is not on far enough but don,t worry they are all like this. If the crankshaft oil seals are worn the bike will either be very difficult to start as it sucks in too much air and makes the mixture very lean. They can also suck in gearbox oil and oil the plug up.(you will get a lot of white smoke) A Mikuni 28mm carb is a common retrofit for bikes with worn Mk2 Amal carbs. 26/27/28mm carbs should be ok for these bikes. Check the carb for worn slide,worn jet needle and needle jet etc and the float height is correct. Even if you think the spark plug is ok put in a new one as they can look ok when checking for a spark outside the head but break down under compression. It is a case of checking everything methodically to rule it out and you should get there in the end. I don,t know the recommended jetting for a Mikuni carb but if it is a direct conversion kit the jetting should be reasonably close. Also check for air leaks on the inlet side and check the exhaust ring is tight . These bikes can also run very poor if the exhaust is completely coked up and the baffles are blocked. Good luck with getting it sorted.
  7. I think you need a single continuous tone to be completely legal,i think bulb horns are legal on pre 65 though.
  8. I have no lights on my Cota 247. I still had the original wires that were exactly the same colour codes as the 348 but it is a very basic system with no voltage regulator so expect poor lighting and frequent blown bulbs. In the end i went for Electrex electronic ignition which was the basic two coil without the lighting coils. I put a six volt horn on the bike for legality which is just wired via a fuse to a rechargeable 6 volt alarm battery housed in the original tool tray under the seat unit.It works perfectly when the bike is stationary rather than running it from a stator coil AC horn which i have never had much success with. In the UK with the bike being over 40 years old i do not need an MOT or tax and even though with no lights a reflector even is not required i fitted one under the legal sized number plate just so i don,t attract too much attention. If i decide to run a stop light i can tap in to the 6 volt battery on a total loss ststem as the battery should last a few hours without recharging.
  9. Hi Phil, i have a 247 Cota 1977 vintage and the wires are Yellow for the lights,Black to the coil,Pink to the stop light switch,green to the horn. I have not got the lights wired up on my bike though. They are all just 6 volt feeds from the stator so you could use any of them. Remember the feed is direct without a voltage regulator so expect a few blown bulbs. This is how they were wired from the factory.
  10. Thanks for your replies. It looks like if the fork caps or springs fit then that is right for the bike. The fork seals for the 35mm forks look pretty universal too.
  11. Hi everyone,i have a Montesa Cota 247 trail UK registered 1978 but dated on frame numbers as a 1977 model. My question is what type of forks are fitted please as i seem to get two answers in my searches of either Betor or Ceriani. They have the slotted screw in the fork cap with what looks like a bleed mechanism inside it. I am after refurbishing the forks with new springs and perhaps get out workshops to machine up a couple of preload spacers or even fit Magical preload adjusters but knowing what forks i have fitted have stopped me obtaining bits. Thanks in advance.
  12. As suggested do not try to kickstart the bike with the clutch pulled in as it will not engage unlike many Japanese bikes . Ensure the clutch is also adjusted correctly and there is no slippage. If you still have no joy you will need to remove the casing and check the condition of the kick start ratchet gears . Good luck with getting it sorted out. I have a Clymer manual if you need schematic drawings of how it all goes together.
  13. frenchy3

    Monty 348

    Hi,you may have to buy one of those universal sidestands that you bolt onto the swinging arm. This may need a plate welding on and then shortening the stand arm to suit. It may be a case of making something from scratch.https://www.trialsbits.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=470
  14. frenchy3

    scorpa sy tank

    If you ride a bit more frequently premium unleaded has less or no ethanol in it depending which garage you buy it from(do an internet search to find out which) If not i do find Aspen great,it sits in the tank all winter and the bike will start straight away without draining the float bowl of the carb. I used it in my lawnmower as well and there are no real fumes that end up giving you a headache etc. It is expensive but a lot of tree surgeons/gardening contractors are using it now. It is a catch 22 situation,it is expensive so people shy away from it but the price will not get cheaper unless more people start buying and using it. Classic bike owners and infrequent riders are catching on to it now and of course it will not damage brass components in fuel systems and seals etc that are not made of modern materials like viton etc. As for the original point of spraying a plastic tank i find that Krylon paint is pretty good if you key the plastic surface with scotchbrite and wipe it thoroughly with pure solvent first. You will always get fuel vapour breathing through a plastic tank but it will be much better with Aspen.
  15. I sealed off the tank and used an airline to see where the leak was and used some soapy water. The whole seam on the top of the tank had worn so thin there are a series of pin holes where the fuel can leak from which is why i could not see anything obvious.
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