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Patrick, You'll need to find all the little pieces or, most assuredly, they will find the little spaces in between your gears. Yes, the idler gear with missing teeth can make that nasty sound..... Jon

I tried to upload one of the Metric/SAE torque charts I made, but the software deemed me unworthy. Use the 2006' Pro owner's manual at: http://www.trialspartsusa.com/manuals/eng.pdf and you'll have the Metric chart. The 04' manual does not carry the torque values for some reason, but you can also download the 2004 manual for the usual settings for your bike. Cheers. Jon

Patrick, Down inside the center of the hub (you may need a flashlight) is a special stepped washer held in by a special 4mm Allen capscrew (it has a hole drilled down the center). The head of the capscrew is shaved down to give a little more clearance for the clutch servo cylinder to drop down into the hub. It is VERY IMPORTANT to use a new Allen wrench or an old one that has about 5mm cut off the end so that the flutes are sharp and will grip the center of the capscrew, otherwise you will strip out the capscrew and it's a bear to get at to back it out. Use a small hammer to rap the top of the Allen wrench (use a T-handle) to shock it loose and it should come out fairly easily (keep pressure on the Allen wrench while turning it). The capscrew shaved head is about half as deep as a regular one and really easy to strip out. Some riders leave the washer and capscrew out, relying on the pressure exerted by the servo cylinder to keep the basket pressed down as it makes it easy to get at the shift shaft centering mechanism in the field but I like to keep them in. If the hub still sticks you can carefully use a couple of slotted screwdrivers on each side of the hub to lever it out slowly and be careful not to damage any parts or sealing surfaces. Jon

Should be in this neighborhood: TXT280-300 PRO WITH PHBL26 (26mm) SEA LEVEL TO 3,000 FEET MAIN: 118 (115 OK, NOTHING SMALLER!) PILOT: 36 (38 OK) NEEDLE: D36 (3rd, or 2nd CLIP POSITION DOWN FROM TOP) FUEL SCREW: 3.5 TURNS OUT FLOAT HEIGHT: ARMS IN LEVEL PLANE WITH FLOAT BOWL BASE (PARALLEL) Jon

The big one in the center of the carb body is the idle or tickover screw and raises and lowers the slide slightly to gain/lose RPMs. The small screw to the left (near the reedcage/manifold side of the carb body) is the fuel mixture screw (on the right, towards the airbox boot would be an air adjustment) and is used to fine-tune the tickover/off-idle response. You can set that by (engine warmed up) quickly blipping the throttle off idle and turn it in/out about 1/8th turn at a time to get the best response and that's where it should be set, on that day, for those riding conditions. Cheers. Jon

Thanks, Nigel, you're right, I guess my math depends on what state my brain is in.... I guess my answer was meant to be too generalized to try to cover the possibilities and not specific to the question (not uncommon with me). From what I remembered, the parts manuals list countershaft sprockets in 9, 10 and 11 tooth configurations and rear sprockets in 41, 42, 43, 44, 46 and 48 tooth configurations so I randomly picked the minimum effect. Now you know why they've never asked me to announce the Oscar awards.......... Jon, time to switch to decaf.

Welcome, Graham. In that your bike is 16 years old, you will want to check it over completely and relube all the necessary parts, such as the steering stem bearings, change the fork oil and generally spend some quality time tightening fasteners. This will pay you back in more riding time, and less fixing time. The helmet should work for now (provided it passes the sanctioning club's requirements) and if you have MX boots they also can get you started but in the future you'll want good Trials boots with lug type soles (your feet will have a LOT of contact with the ground at the beginning and MX boot soles are designed to slide, not grip, and grip is what you'll want). You'll want a Trials helmet soon as it will be lighter and have a more pronounced "cut out" at the back, where it contacts your neck, that allows you to have your neck at a greater angle (while standing) more of the time. Helmet, boots and gloves are very important in Trials and you'll eventually want to get those items specfically designed for Trials. They are different from the more common MX type items for reasons you'll soon understand and will make riding more enoyable. In the meantime, be more concerned with safety than looks, and although Trials is one of the safest forms of motorsports, accidents can happen and you'll want to be able to jump up, grab your bike and keep wow'ing the spectators with your new found skills... Welcome aboard! Jon

I think so. Look on the same website for the GasGas engine update for Feb 2008 and you'll find info on how to set the kickstart mechanism. When taking the sidecover off, it's a good idea to lightly tap on the kickstart shaft to keep it in place as the cover is pulled back. Did you ever get that water pump fixed? Jon

I think that 1.5% is a little less than a 70:1 ratio but most riders run about an 80:1 ratio, which would be about 12.5cc's per Litre (or about 1.7 oz. per U.S. gallon on this side of the pond). Use a full-synthetic premix oil for best results, not a "synthetic-blend" or mineral/castor base and you'll get less carbon buildup over time. PMP's correct on the kickstart, always engage the racheting mechanism before putting weight on the lever (which one should do with any bike). Jon

Patrick, Go to this site: http://www.trialspartsusa.com/tech.html and you'll find a bunch of stuff that will help you, including the wiring diagram to hook up the kill switch. Use a two-wire grounding switch like a YZ250 type and the KX250 switch also works well, I've never had a problem with those switches, rain or shine. I'd pull the clutch sidecover and check the kickstart idler gear to start. The clutch will usually be a little rattley but the noise will go away when the clutch lever is pulled in. Jon

Yea, I'm a little worried bout the Cope too. I'm guessing it's shirt open to the navel, puka shell necklace round the neck, Raybans and a red Miata next.......... Jon, stumbling through my latelife crisis.......

Sorry, Copey. That's Shakira's Evil Twin and I can only imagine what she wants to do with that rope....... Jon

Alex, In my experience, the fibers do not usually need bedding in and should work fairly well at the start. Providing the clutch pack was measured (the finger height seems to be a more accurate measurement as it compensates for compression of the pack as installed) and is within the appropriate range, you should be o.k. there. Next, I'd check that there is a little clearance where the lever adjustment screw meets the plunger that goes through the rubber boot on the master cylinder and that the piston is returning back fully to it's stop at the circlip under the boot. If the boot is damaged in any way, consider using a rebuild kit for the M/C as any grit ingested into the M.C usually causes damage to the o-ring and piston seal. A worn o-ring on the piston shaft will allow air (and grit) to be ingested into the bore and a worn piston seal will usually not start to seal until the piston has traveled part way down the bore (and pressure is built up to expand the piston cup and compensate for the reduced, from wear, diameter of the piston sealing lip) which will reduce the effective travel. Just about any hydraulic system on a bike that is properly maintained and does not have worn or damaged parts will not magically ingest air. If it does, there's a problem with one of the components, such as a loose banjo fitting, a worn o-ring in the M/C, or a low level of fluid in the M/C reservoir etc. If the servo cylinder was removed from the sidecover post when the clutch was installed there may be an air bubble inside it. There is a "step" where the post ends and the servo cylinder is kinda like a pocket where air can reside. Sometimes laying the bike down on the left side and working the clutch lever will allow the air trapped in the servo cylinder to work it's way up the hole in the post and then it can be bled from the fitting on top of the sidecover. If the servo cylinder is taken off the post during service, it's a good idea to fill it with fluid before installing it on the post and then hold the sidecover "upside down", with the cylinder facing down and push on it a few times to force the fluid (and any air) up into the system. I also like to turn the bars to the right when bleeding the clutch as this places the M/C at the highest point in the system and levels out the loop in the hose after it leaves the M/C, where an air bubble can hide. Jon

I think the 04' Raga system is kinda unique, with an EPROM, rather than the two ignition curves pre-programmed. I checked the GasGas Spain site just now and I see they do not list the "kit" with the hookup cable and software used to re-program the chip anymore. You might check with some dealers who may have what you need. The 05' Pro's on up have the two curves installed, and I imagine they may have thought the infinite number of curves possible with the Ducati 04' Raga CDI were probably overkill and too technical for most riders to use correctly. Jon

You might think about running about 650-700cc's of a light-weight trans fluid in cooler weather, say 5W-30 or Dexron ATF in the "Edition" type engine. Jon

That's it, I think. The earlier Ducati had the orange/black ones from 05' on out and I think the Kokusan is the pink/black. I'm pretty sure that you will probably not be able to tell a big difference at very low RPM's, so look for the change in the upper range and differing traction conditions. Jon

Daz, Try looking for orange and black wires, male and female connectors that the bar switch plugs in to. They may be connected together. Jon

When I was a very young brat (as opposed to my now being an old brat) I tried MXing my Vespa (only once.....) and quickly found out that the engine on the side makes them roll to the right in midair when jumped and almost lost my right foot when I crashed it (pulled it out of the way of the apron before it hit the dirt). Things happen fast on those things..... Jon

I've got an 02' Pro and have done some updates on it and it's great. Most of the updates are relatively minor but the big problem with the 02 is that the cases are Magnesium (and painted, not anodized like the Raga) and are prone to corrosion if not cared for. I'd ask to pull the flywheel and check the stator area, and if there is a fair amount of corrosion there, I'd pass on it, as cases are costly. I used epoxy paint to coat the stator area and vented the sidecase when I first got the bike so water is not ingested (this works for any Trials bike) and I never put it away wet or muddy. Jon

I thought I'd do some research and contact someone who knows the scoop. Here's the reply: "The 09 radiator assembly we have in stock does include the fan assembly, however they are not 2 separate pieces, the fan assembly is just riveted on instead of screwed on as it has been the last few years. The fans are still available separately and can still be replaced. in the unlikely event somebody needs a radiator odds are pretty good that they crashed and they'll probably need a fan anyway, if however they dont and they're worried about the additional cost of the fan being included with the radiator they could buy an 05 type radiator (without the fan attached), although its a different brand it would still work." Cheers. Jon

My first guess is the long pipe. Jon

Sounds good. It's a common theme in a great deal of the questions I encounter and new riders, used to cable systems, are generally baffled by the operation and maintenence of the hydraulics. Trials riders are dependent on the clutch and brake systems more than the other forms of sport it seems. Jon

As far as I know, the middle box is essentially the same on all the large displacement models (although, I can assure you from personal observation that Adam's middle box is different from anybody elses). The later systems are one-piece with the final exhaust welded to the middle box. The earlier Raga Replica final mufflers were about 2" longer than the standard muffler. Jon

"Jon and Cope may both be right." Biff, don't tell Copey that, I'll never hear the end of it! I agree with Biff, the best way is to get a rebuild kit and hardware store o-rings will not work (incorrect size and material) as it's most likely a combination of the rear piston o-ring (which is causing the wet appearance under the boot) and special seal at the front (which is probably causing the lack of pressure). Rarely, it's is a broken piston return spring in front of the seal (a common problem in the early 90's AJP M/C's, but not now) which will not push the piston back to it's stop at the circlip and allow the system to equalize. Jon ps. Biff, it's 23 degrees outside down here in NE OK. now, which I imagine would seem like a heat wave to you guys up there......