taylo63

I've had an EVO 2012 250 from new....Never had a problem with it ( touch wood) always starts first or second kick.. IMHO..you can normally tell if a Beta has a had a bit of a hard time if the bash plate is bent..The one in the photo looks like it isn't.? .

Thursday December 7th 8pm on “Dave” channel - Ross Noble-Off-road part 1 of 3 The Geordie comedian prepares for and takes on the challenge of the Scottish six day trial. Should be worth a watch!

Hi Slogger I too have an 85 TY mono that had a few running problems. all of which were resolved by :- 1. Replacing the very worn original carb with a Mikuni Vm26 2. Cutting open and cleaning the middle exhaust box... below is a paragraph from my own post in this forum in regard to the middle box. Starting with the backbox ( cos I knew I could get an aftermarket replacement)Using a standard hacksaw I carefully cut off the lip that runs around it...As you do so you can see the two halves of the exhaust, and once you have removed the lip all the way round the backbox simply comes apart and in my case revealed 30 odd years of black oily carbon sludge! In fact It was so bad I 'm surprised it was running at all...and I ended up chucking it away and getting a Sammy Miller replacement. Using the experience gained cutting the back box open, I used the same method to cut open the middle box and this too was completely cacked in black oily sludge..Inside the exhaust there is fibre packing too, so trying to decoke with caustic is NEVER going to work. It took me several hours to clean the crap out and one by one unblock the perforated holes in the baffle with a drill bit. Once it was completely clean I repacked with fresh packing and took it to my local welder who welded it back up for me... The bike now sounds crisper and runs so much better, I also replaced the standard Tekei carb with a Mikuni VM 26 from a Beta Rev3 and now it runs how it should....So in summary if you want to decoke your exhaust the bestway to do it IMO is to cut it open, you'll be surprised just how badly blocked they become... Hope this helps...

I thought I would update my post that I submitted sometime ago!.It may be of some use..not only to TY Mono owners but also to owners of "old" 2 strokes!! Anyway...after doing the usual carb clean, new plug, new air filter the bike still would not run properly....So I had a chat with Mr Birkett and the first thing he advised was to decoke the entire exhaust system...I had previously tried caustic soda to try and clear it out, but he advised the only way to properly clean it is to cut open the exhaust... Starting with the backbox ( cos I knew I could get an aftermarket replacement)Using a standard hacksaw I carefully cut off the lip that runs around it...As you do so you can see the two halves of the exhaust, and once you have removed the lip all the way round the backbox simply comes apart and in my case revealed 30 odd years of black oily carbon sludge! In fact It was so bad I 'm surprised it was running at all...and I ended up chucking it away and getting a Sammy Miller replacement. Using the experience gained cutting the back box open, I used the same method to cut open the middle box and this too was completely cacked in black oily sludge..Inside the exhaust there is fibre packing too, so trying to decoke with caustic is NEVER going to work. It took me several hours to clean the crap out and one by one unblock the perforated holes in the baffle with a drill bit. Once it was completely clean I repacked with fresh packing and took it to my local welder who welded it back up for me... The bike now sounds crisper and runs so much better, I also replaced the standard Tekei carb with a Mikuni VM 26 from a Beta Rev3 and now it runs how it should....So in summary if you want to decoke your exhaust the bestway to do it IMO is to cut it open, you'll be surprised just how badly blocked they become...

Probably a bit late now, but may be of use to others...I found that a 1/2 inch drive spark plug socket ( the one I have happens to be 22m across the flats) turned upside down fits perfectly into the the damper rod...All you need then is a couple of 1/2 inch drive extenders with a normal wrench. No need for any welding or stuff...

I took the carb to pieces again and gave it another thorough clean with carb cleaner, but this time I used compressed air line to blow out every nook, and cranny of the carb and the jets.. Put it back on and it appears to be much better..I need to give it a good run first though befor I am happy that this is the cure...fingers crossed..

Hi All Looking for some advise please...MY 1985 TY 250 Mono starts ok and would run ok, however, it keeps "hunting" and pinging once it gets hot...I have decoked the piston and exhaust, and even fitted a Mikuni carb to see if that makes any difference, but the same thing happens with the Mikuni as it does with the original Yam carb.. I've done all the other usual stuff like new plug and made sure both carbs are clean and using fresh fuel.. Does anyone have any ideas What I can try next?

Thanks to bilks and lineaway for your sensible answers....As for charlie chitlins...i'm not sure what you are implying here...The reason I asked the question re the shock absorber is because I am not a motorcycle mechanic with a fully loaded workshop full of specialist tools...If you are then you then you are lucky!. I would guess most of the guys on this forum don't have access to specialist tools and will post a question to ask how to overcome a problem such as I did. If you cannot answer a question with a sensbile answer then don't bother!!!!! By the way I managed to adjust the shocker by putting it in a vice and gently, with a pair of steelsons, moving the adjust round WITHOUT burring any edges and WITHOUT a rock as you suggested.. Cheers.

Hi All I have a TY 250 Mono that has matching frame and engine numbers ie 59N00166 which I believe makes it a 1985 N model ? Two questions:- 1. The head and carb inlet are stamped 38V..Does this mean they are from a different model? 2.The rear shocker looks like it has been set to its highest position making the suspension quite hard. I assume to adjust it there is a C spanner required? not having one or wanting to but one how else can I adjust?? Thanks in anticipation Regards

Hi All I have a TY250 Mono ( 1985) that has the original foot rests...As they look a bit small and battered I would like to know if there are any replacement pegs that could be used? Looking where the originals are mounted..it seems even if i cut them off, there s minimal space on which to weld after market hangers... Just looking to see if anyone out there has done any mods??? Thanks

Hi All Looking at buying a twinshock and like the look of the Montesa 348. i've been reading about them and other Cota's such as the 247, and there are few comments on a weakness of the kickstart drive that can in some instances break with the obvious issue of repair, even if a part can be sourced....Is the 348 prone to the same issue? Regards

Thanks Peter for the quick reply...I'll take your comments on board and have a go myself.. Regards

Hi All. I have a 2012 Evo which has the light and kill switch buttons located on the hand side of the radiator. I would like to change to a Yamaha type handlebar mounted kill switch and would like to know which wires I need to connect. Is it just a simple case of joining the two wires from the kill switch to the two wires that go to the current one? If so does it matter which one connects to which? I also want to remove the whole kill and light switch assembly so should I just disconnect the wires going to the light switch and tape them up? Many Thanks

Hi All There is a nice 08 Rev 4 for sale near me which I quite like the look of. I read through this forum and it appears there was a kickstart mod that Beta did for this model. The question is how can you tell if the mod has been done ? Thanks

Hi All Just wanted to know if many of you folks have got a 2011/2012 SR280 and how you rate it? I've heard of a few that have had a hot start problem, is this an isolated issue or a common one? I currenty have an SY250 2007 and fancy a bit of change and am considering a 2011 model... Any comments most welcome.. Thanks

Hi All Looking at buying a gas gas TXT PRO 250 possibly 2009 ish. Could anyone give me any tips on what to look for if I decide to buy one. Also are there any common faults issues with thes bikes and are they reliable? Any advice gratefully received. Thanks

How did you remove the pinion gear ? did it come off easy ?..I'm trying to get the pinion off my cota 247 without success at the moment. Any comments would be gratefully welcomed.. Thanks

Hi All I have a 75 Cota 247 which on the whole runs very well.but smokes excessively ( even for a 70's twostroke). I am thinking that it could be a crankshaft oil seal? The reason I think so is because when i remove the spark plug and smell it I can smell gearbox oil. So...assuming it is a crankshft oil seal has anyone had first hand experience of replacing one? I assume the oil seal is on the clutch side? Do you require any specialised tools and is it something that could be done with a bit of mechanical knowledge.. Any comments would be most welcome Regards

Hi all I'm thinking of removing the swinging arm from my 07 sy250 just to clean and regrease bearings etc. I would like to know if there are any gotcha's I need to be aware of when doing so. Thanks in advance for your advice. Paul.

Hi All I want to replace the spark plug on my cota 247 ( 1975)and would like to know what type/grade of plug is manufacturer recommended. The bike is currently using a DENSO WD20 FS-U, which according to the DENSO website is recommended for engines of 50cc or 175cc ! I have also looked on ebay and a company selling NGK recommend a B6HS..So before i purchase one I thought I would ask you guys for your opinions. Many Thanks Paul.

At last...I think I have found the problem. The kickstart is bent... but not in the place where I thought it would be.. I only noticed where it was bent after I removed the top bit of the kick ( the bit that swivels)...when this was removed I could see that it is clearly bent.. Next question is how do you remove the kickstart ? Obviously you unscrew the pinch bolt but I'm not sure how you go about releasing the return spring and infact putting it back... Again any help would be much appreciated. Thanks

Thanks all for your replies..Bit of an odd one this..The kickstart is not bent outwards at all. I even thought there might be a non standard kickstart and/or brake pedal,but comparing to other 247's they both appear standard.Not sure where to go on this now..I'm a bit reluctnat to continue using the bike until I resolve the issus as I don't want to damage anything !...I may investigate a way of perhaps folding the lever out of the way while I kick it. I need to think about that one. Thanks Keychange for the advice on a decompressor..I will see if i can find one here in the UK. Does anyone know who sells them ? Regards

Wonder if someone could give me some advice in regard to the kickstart on my Cota 247 ( 1975) The problem is that the kicker hits the rear brake pedal and then gets stuck when trying to return! I have looked at many photos of similar bikes and cannot see any difference between the kickstart or the brake pedal. Is this something that is normal on these bikes? Thanks

Just brought myself a cota 247 1975 model...Could someone let me know what make of gearbox and clutch oils you guys use... Thanks in advance

This is what I use to prevent the forks compressing too much when securing my bike to my trailer. Get yourself a length of 32mm PVC plumbing pipe. Measure ( roughly) the distance between the bottom of the triple clamp and the dustcap on the fork leg. Cut two lengths of pipe to this measurement, and cut a slot length ways in both. Simply push the pipe over each fork leg, then when securing bike with tie downs tighten them sufficiently so as to keep the bike and secure. Not only does this prevent the forks from being compressed to much but keeps the bike nice and secure.