Petr

Dan, thank you very much for your comprehensive reply. It is a lot to take in but at least I know what were the shims used for. As you mentioned accessory slave cylinder I believe it has not been replaced with a different or upgraded version - only caps on reservoirs are Apico instead of Beta originals. No idea what benefit that can provide. If I may ask you, your replacement of the thicker plates on both end of a clutch basket was to make the action of engagement smoother or it increases the length of throw? As you mentioned, the the clutch is self-adjusting... There is one thing I have not mentioned. I removed two springs from the pressure plate assembly to ease the operation. Now I can ride without hurting finger but obviously the clutch is slipping in highest gears. Out of interest, would this have similar negative effect for clutch engagement even in the lowest gears? I am now thinking about how quickly can remaining springs push out the oil from the spaces between the plates. There could not be a change in the way the piston or slave cylinder operates but as I have no other adjustment available, I will put them back for the next ride. Fingers crossed ? Also I would like to acknowledge the helpfulness of this forum. For me it is very useful source of information thanks to many dedicated people who share their knowledge and donate their time to others.

Thank you guys for your suggestions. It may be better to illustrate the problem. The master cylinder push rod gets now activated by the lever itself as the adjusting screw is almost out and only tip is holding the rod in the position. When the rod gets activated it takes about 2-3mm travel (piston covering the inlet hole in the process) before any resistance is felt. It is Beta 2T and before I bought it it was used for a year by expert rider. The problem somehow became apparent after DOT4 oil replacement. Lineaway is right in saying it gets worst when the thing heats up. There are two thicker plates on both ends of the clutch basket and I have hands big enough to operate the lever. However, if I let the lever out more, it will be more difficult to operate. I can also try to put in that 1mm free play between the push rod and screw if it will make any difference but that will get me into the same spot as described in previous sentence. You both think the plates are just fine? I have read somebody's mod about shortening the push pin which makes sense to me but before I take a angle grinder near it I wanted to make sure. BTW I watched the video about japanese mechanic messing with shims but never understood what he actually achieved.

I wondered if anyone knows when to change the plates on Beta Evo 2018; in another words what is the minimum thickness of them. The plates are around 3mm each, I run out of the adjustment on the handlebar and the slightest pull on the lever sends clutch slipping. Is it a time? Would adding a few shims to the basket postpone the replacement? Thank you ahead for your wisdom.

Lucky you who has got a little distance from the properties nearby. I brought some logs to our drive and made it to something to ride/jump over. Next thing I saw was an angry neighbour (not even mine) to complain about the noise. I think everyone is a little bit on the edge and since it is much more quiet than usual, that was the end of it. Next property I am going to buy will have some space around!

I have started with trials only a year ago; initially with an old 2008 Beta 270 rev3. After finding how much I enjoyed it, I faced the same dilemma. In the end I bought two months ago 2018 Beta Evo 300. Now, I cannot advise you on the capability of this 300cc bike as I am not jumping over high logs or boulders yet but: you can make it as fiery or docile as you want. I have not had a problem with bike running wild or scaring me. In my opinion as long as you have a good clutch and engine control using appropriate gear all bikes are easy ride.

Super! Thanks a lot for the videos - all clear now. Although I was using the legs I was jumping straight up, not backwards I am looking forward to practice it!

Good, I have a targets now. I know I can easily do 5min both ways. I guess longer times are good for re-enforcing the memory. I have one question though. Front wheel hopping: how do you move sideways? I can hop on the spot but not one after another as a sequence. One, then prepare for another and still not moving anywhere - even that is super difficult now. Do you intentionally fall to the side and then hop making tilt adjustment to land the other way to compensate when in the air?

That explains! They have it easy as they are actually upside down. He only needs to grip well not to fall upwards. I am making some progress. I am finding that jerkiness is slowly diminishing and I can now stay straight for couple of second (to be modest) and then back to either side as a safety net. I am actually trying to put the wheel somewhere in the middle between the full lock and straight wheel. It is almost as difficult but psychologically the wheel slightly sideways looks more acceptable.

Well, this rider is not exactly wedged somewhere. Moreover, on this bike I think it is twice as difficult. Posted before: https://youtu.be/shJUlpRAN28?t=186

I am not sure about letting the pressure down. I am willing to spend considerable time learning to balance but not changing variables to make it easier from the beginning and then possibly having to start again. While I was very comfortable balancing on my old Beta (sold now), new one is little bit harder but again than can be caused by new tyres and different suspension. In any case, when standing with straight front - well somewhere between mounting and falling off - do you keep you balance low or stretch up? In my mind crouching down complicates matter as there is one more input (peg pressure) beside the stretching one leg sideway.

What is general opinion about keeping inner leg against the bike? I recall I was doing it in beginning when I was trying to balance with front wheel turned. Personally, now I believe it gives you a kind of false security but limits your movements too much. Anyway as somebody mentioned, practice makes it perfect. Only a few minutes every day and next year I will become an accomplished clown!

I feel that will help immensely with say for example putting the front onto the obstacle before jumping on it, riding on the straight piece of log or anything narrow & above ground or just staying on the bike where you cannot turn the wheel sideways

Bluey, thank you for sharing your experience! It sounds very promising. So far I have been stepping up and down right to the floor. Good work out and warm up procedure but using the platform will be much more productive. I can see now one needs to be really steady to start with. I will give it a go! ? As you said, there is no substitute for practice.

Hi guys! I would like to learn how to balance stationary bike with front wheel straight and sleeping engine. I should add it is on the smooth concrete floor. I have tried plenty of variations like keeping the weight back, middle, front, low and high, moving bum/knees sideways, crouching wide or touching bike with inner legs while weighting quickly on the pegs when doing all of this. I see some progress but not enough to see what is working and what is not. Can please somebody tell me what to do? Also, I cannot figure up the leg stretching - which side is which and what is it combined with. Brain balance implant chip wanted! Maplin?

I have just replaced the seals & oil on my forks. Since the spring clips between the seal and dust cover are quite rusty I want to replace them as well. However, it seems impossible to source them from anywhere (unknown spare part number topping it up). In the worst case scenario I think they could be made from a steel wire and bend it according to the original. Any suggestion what would be the best material (hard or half hard, diameter, coated etc.) or just a internal circular clip will do? Has anyone done this before?

I found it very useful for the oil changes. I would definitely not remember how often and how long I was on the bike (maybe a problem with the old age). My one sits on piece of metal (with hook & loop pad) with holes on the sides and plastic straps through & around the bars

Oni nou can you please enclose a link to the video you have uploaded about the forks? Are you referring to this one? BTW I have measured the dia of the tubes and I found that 1½" plastic waste pipe will be a good tool for fitting the seals.

Found it - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BETA-EVO-BETA-REV-3-REAR-BRAKE-PEDAL-BEARING-AND-BUSH/162970855544?hash=item25f1d1e878:g:iKYAAMXQLw1R4~Ke

Thanks for the info. I had the same problem combined with the foot lever screw coming out. After taking it apart I found the bearing seized which in turn provoked the screw movement. Since I do not want to pay for the complete lever I was just now searching for replacement bearing which I could not find on it's own. It is now all cleaned, lubricated and back in place - maybe when I replace the chain plastic guards in the future I shall re-use some of it on the lever from the chain side. If anyone knows where to get a new bearing, please share the link ?

Trapezeartist - that is a reasonable and logical answer I would be guided by.

Truth is, that original spare part list deals with bigger screws and bolts only. Small bits like air box brackets, fender screws etc. are not even numbered. Best to call Beta spare parts (or email) https://www.beta-uk.com to find out. I have ordered couple of originals without asking them beforehand as some of them I had to drill out to get access for the repairs and they were wrong size. Just as Mark said, it may be best and cheapest to use standard ones and cut it down if necessary. Unit 8B Snaygill Industrial Estate Keighley Road Skipton North Yorkshire BD23 2QR Tel: 01756 793521

After bleeding the brake so many times I decided to change the seals on M/C front brake. Unexpectedly easy job with extraordinary costs for a few pieces of rubber (£21!). It is now better and still a space for improvement ones everything gets seated. When you did back fill, did you operate the handle at all?

I am interested what have you used for back filling. I tried 150mm syringe and could not get enough of pressure from it for the oil to go through

Dan, I re-fitted the carb back today and I found that no screwdriver would help. Obviously you have a better arrangement. My screw is hidden beyond the exhaust pipe. To do in the morning what you do means for me taking the rear fender off, put back air filter temporarily, start bike and adjust mixture with long nose pliers from the top (see the picture). Then re-fit it all and hope nothing is going to change There is so little space that the screw hits the exhaust pipe with just couple of turns out. Now I know why the cable screw! Can you please confirm: is 1½ turn out good as a general setting for this bike? If I need to make a bigger adjustment, it is really best to take the carburettor out.