andy.t

I have just obtained a very good TY175 clutch and primary drive pinion,the clutch has what looks to be a letter B engraved on the end of one of the drive teeth but I can't see anything on the drive pinion to say it matches,letter B,they could do but is there a way of checking the required amount of clearance when fitted and how much should it be?also when I rebuilt the engine some time ago I noticed that the drive pinion only covers just over half way over the teeth on the clutch basket,is this normal? Regards Andy.

Thanks for all your comments so far,would love to fit the TY250 forks but finding some decent ones is another thing,so I changed the oil on mine for now which doesnt seem to have made any difference.How can you tell if the damping is good,when you give my forks a push down they spring back up just as fast and stop at the end of travel,maybe recoil a fraction down again,so is that good?....anyone got any forks they dont want! Regards Andy.

Does anyone have an opinion on what is the best height to set the fork tubes above the top yoke,mine are set flush at the moment,20mm has been advised in the Haynes book.Also what is the best fork oil grade to use. Regards.

If you have to remove the cover then the Haynes Manual says the following on ty80 models the swinging arm pivot bolt retaining nut must be removed and the footrest mounting bolt slackened so that the footrest can be pivoted backwards clear of the cover.Note that the oil pump and drive can remain in place on the cover.Remove the screws.Pull off the cover.Fix the clutch. Hope this is of some use. Regards Andy.

There was only one 'R' in the hammerite I used,you must be thinking of another type.Dont forget to get the smooth type because the Hammer type will not look good.

I am probably going to regret saying this but I touched up the paintwork on my TY175 with Hammerite smooth silver spray paint.I changed the can nozzle for one from a car body spray can which gives a wide spray fan and sprayed it down the frame with the narrow part of the fan,it blended in with the original paint spot on, and it has a very good finish. Now shoot me down.

Hi,its correct,should have said to turn carb upside down when measuring,its not the gap between the needle and float that you measure.if this still does not make any sense I will try an scan a copy of how its checked and send it to you.(tomorrow) Regards Andy.

Hi,just to add to your checks,check position of jet needle clip for a start try clip position 4 counting from the top,check the float bowl level,float bowl height should be 21mm+or-2.5mmm measured from the top of the float to the float chamber gasket seat (gasket removed).PS if the foat needle is damaged it wont make any difference because it will just over fill and give you an incorrect mixture. Regards Andy.

Thanks for all the comments so far its looks like the Boost Bottle does work.I would still like to know what is the best inlet manifold to use to connect the pipe to, as I'm sure there is one that will fit with the branch connection already on it.Whilst I'm here does any one know if its worth trying to smooth out the offset that is evident in the alignment of the intake rubber to the reed cage,and if so how did you do it. Regards.

Have you tried to adjust the slow running mixture as I have noticed that on my TY175 it does make a difference to how quiet the engine is on tick over.

Does anyone know if its worth fitting a boost bottle to a TY175 and is it possible to fabricate one.Does anyone know of a suitable Yamaha inlet manifold with the branch fitting that could be used in the event I attempt to go ahead with it. Regards.