andy.t

Hi,if you think the bikes sucking in oil past the seals I would just drain the oil from the geabox into a measuring jug to see how much you have lost,then you could prove if its an oil problem by running the engine up with no oil in,should be fine so long as you dont ride it around,if the engine runs fine with no oil in the gearbox then I would say it could be sucking it in when filled. Only saying this is what I would do and have known others to do it also with no problems. Regards Andy. PS did you notice any scoring on the OD of the crank where the seals contact, as this could chew up the new ones.

If you are some kind of Engineer and have lots of tools like spanners and sockets in your garage then your bike will have noticed them and will expect you to regularly run them over it just to give reassurance that it should not break down.However if your for example your a Builder and have no such tools in the garage only your bike, then it will expect you to do nothing to it and will continue to run forever untouched. This knowledge comes from personal experience. PS. my mates a Builder.

Hi Andy,now if you had said parts manual I would have pointed you to here.yamaha parts It could be of some use anyway,you will have to look for your year bike amongst the others as the American bike years do not tie up with the Uk bikes.Its worth a look at. Regards Andy PS. I have checked site and the TY250A info starts in 1974

Hi,is it a service or a parts manual that your after. Regards Andy.

Hi Scott,at the moment I have a 15W oil in the forks which works fine for me,must say that I havn't done any of the rock streams like you yet,I think I would try the 10W oil for a start.The forks are 18mm above the top yoke, obviously the more you have above the less flexing on the forks.The brake shoes I use are EBC brand,they were fitted on the bike when I purchased it and were not upto much until I removed the brake arms and turned them around to a point where when connected up to the cables very little brake movement is required to lock up the brakes,I know this is not how they should be but if you consider the wear on the drums plus a bit on the shoes then it don't take much for them to become naff.You may have to keep moving the arms around on the splines till you achieve the setting which will give the desired effect. Regards Andy. PS. try and de-glaze the drums and shoes as often as possible

Hi Scott,do you think the heavy weight oil in the forks could be the problem,I would have thought that continuous bumps like rocks would be better absorbed with a lighter oil in the forks,with the heavy oil I dont think the shock has enough time to compress and rebound fast enough to absorb a succcession of bumps like stream rocks. Could be talking out of me RRSSS. Regards Andy.

Thank you all for the info,just incase your interested I removed the joint as mentioned and when it was out it rotated as it should, so I just cleaned up the bore to which it fitted and pressed it back in,its now free to move. When it was out I noticed the brass section had a grease passage to the ball so I drilled and tapped a 6mm hole in the shock ring section,stuck in a grease nipple,re-fitted the joint and then pumped it full of grease,I have removed the nipple and put in a pan head screw in,its easy enough to remove and refit next time I want to grease it again. Thanks all again,Andy. Looks like this.... http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w184/ty...reasenipple.jpg

Thanks for the info Blocky,I only wanted to try and remove the ball part and stick some grease in it,does the method you mention remove the whole thing,the ball and the brass ball retainer.I dont really need a new one its just a bit stiff and assumed it should rotate with ease as its part of the moving shock system.Any more info would be appreciated. Regards Andy.

I just read something that PeterB wrote and it got me thinking the movement that I dont have should be on the spherical bush,mine is very stiff. It looks like you can push it out as he mentioned and grease it up.Anyone knows if this can be done on all the shocks,could be an expensive mistake if mine wasn't meant to come out.

Hi ,could anyone let me know what part should move on the rear shock lower joint,should it revolve on the large ball section or the spiggot type halfs that push into the ball section.The problem with mine is it looks as if its been moving on the fixing bolt and only because it was not that tight.The ball is very stiff and the spiggots dont meet in the centre so it goes tight when the bolt is done up. Parts look like this..... http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w184/ty...28_184742AA.jpg Regards Andy.

Hi, it could be worth having a close look at the reed cage,remove the reeds and check that they are flat and not bent,if they are in a poor condition then they will not open as they should.Its worth checking the timing just to prove that its not the problem,look on Ebay and you will find the correct extractor for the job,should be about 6 to 10 pound,it should just screw into the flywheel and then tighten up the centre bolt,tap the end of the bolt with a hammer if its tight and it should pop off.Give the bike a good clean with Gunk then try and pinpoint the leak. Regards Andy ps the contact gap should be .35mm(0.014in)you have to set this with the flywheel on in case you didnt know as the cam is on the flywheel,have fun when the screw driver and the feeler gauges get stuck to the magnets.

Hi Bo,looks like you got a bargain then.I would have told the bloke it was the real thing and paid him more....I dont think so. Regards Andy.

Hi Bo,just had a look at your bike on Ebay,looks OK,how can you tell if its an original Majesty just out of interest.Part of the registration looks familiar,be prepared for some stick SOG stands for SAD OLD GIT. Regards Andy.

Hi, dont know if this info is of any use,when I rebuilt my TY175 I found the mixture screw did very little it was only when I fitted a new/old stock carb that I found I could set up the slow running spot on,I think it was down to worn jets all round in the old carb that prevented setting up,the point is that if the jets are worn or the float bowl not set to the correct height then there probably isn't an exact setting to start with on a worn carb.As you probably know the setting given is only a start point and the best position is that which gives the fastest idle speed.If the slow running mixture is incorrect then it will rattle on tick over.Is the Timing spot on also? Regards Andy.

Hi,being a bit stupid could somebody explain to me why you should not use synthetic oil in your gearbox,and would semi synthetic be just as bad. Regards Andy.

Hi Biff,thank you for posting the photo's,I tried to run the brake pipe as mentioned but ran into problems,its just too tight and the pipe nips again as it goes over the swing arm,and I think with the swing arm raised the tension on the brake pipe will be too much,anyway for now the pipe is routed so it goes down the gap between the master cylinder and the swing arm like this.... PS this bike is a 1998 TX200 dont know if this makes any difference? http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w184/ty...15_021917AA.jpg Thanks again for your help. Regards Andy.

Hi Biff,its starting to make a little sense now,I have removed the brake pipe and can wrap it around without removing the swing arm,its looking a little tight with the lenghth of pipe available,is there no way it should go down the gap in between the master cyclinder and the swing arm? anyway the photos would be good if you could. Regards Andy.

Hi,have you checked the float height,if its wrong this will effect your running mixture.Should be 23mm+or- 1mm.Also could be worth checking the needle clip position, should be second from top. Regards Andy.

Hi,the more I look at the brake pipe the more I think it still aint right,can't seem to swing it far enough over to the left without the metal part of the union hitting the swing arm,could only do this if I put a different bend in it ,even then the section of pipe which runs down towards the swing arm entry hole looks like it would still rub on the engine case.Any help please. Regards Andy.

Hi Biff,thanks for the info,moved the union a bit, not sure if its correct.Looks like this now http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w184/ty...10_231302AA.jpg http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w184/ty...10_231331AA.jpg Regards Andy

Thanks Scorpa3, Cheap stuff from Halfords it is then,thanks for the reply.Noticed your club is :Stratford-Upon-Avon,love that place. Regards Andy.

Come on someone must know what to use,just been looking on the net and now more confused,the orange stuff eats silicone seals and should only be used with aluminum rads and so on.

Hi,could anyone let me know the correct route for the rear brake hose because it looks as if mine is wrong as it has been bent,it runs to the left from the right angle union over to the shock then under the swing arm to the hole where it enters.Not sure if link below will work? http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w184/ty...09_234038AA.jpg http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w184/ty..._234106AA-1.jpg

Hi,I would like to change the coolant in my bike and was going to use car antifreeze, I know you should avoid Silica based products but some say they have Organic products in them also.Any advice as to whats best I didn't want to buy the proper motorcycle antifreeze as I think its the same as the car stuff but twice the price. Regards Andy.

Hi,if you are doing it on the same bike as mine then its fairly easy because the seals are fitted in the removable cap,I sprayed the clip with WD40 and left overnight and used a small screw driver to ping it out,the seals didn't come out too easy though,will require a hammer and screw driver, but be sure not to dig the screw driver into the surface where the seal fits as it could cause oil to bypass and leak. Regards Andy.