jezza

Je ne sais quoi

It's like Wheeler Dealers and Groundhog Day, all in one.

http://www.wurth.co.uk/catalogue/pdfs/UK-CD_12_0565.pdf

Hundreds of readers across the globe who suffer from bike cleaning OCD, are now twitching in front of their computer screens at the sight of a dirty bike being fitted with new rim decals. Is that Andrex Quilted?

The number in the plug identification code refers to the heat range of the plug. In Italy where the bikes are made, nearer to the equator= climate hotter, correct plug 7 In the UK where you are using the bike, nearer to the North Pole= climate colder, correct plug 5 Simples

http://www.mxbits.com/acatalog/Exclusive_Seal_Savers.html .............and scroll down

There should be an adjusting bolt and nut that screws into the swinging arm pivot point. This allows you to set the brake lever at your desired height. If this is missing, they often work loose if not checked regularly, your brake lever may be angled up higher than it needs to be. Get on your knees or tip the bike on its left hand side and check for the hole where this should screw into. Next wipe up all the fuel that has leaked over your garage floor and next time remember to check your fuel tap is turned to off. If it is missing, find a bolt that fits, about 6mm by about 15mm ish and a nut to lock it in place. Then adjust pedal height to where it feels more comfortable. VERY IMPORTANT that there is clearance between the push rod on the rear of the brake pedal and the piston in the master cylinder. If not your rear brake will bind on, as it gets hotter and everything expands it will jam on and fry your pads and caliper seals. Then you will have the joy of renewing the seals and a world of pain bleeding the back brake (see recent posts). This will age you by at least a decade.

As the coolant bleeds into the clutch/gearbox, less coolant remains to cool the engine until the engine begins to overheat causing your lumpy running. Easy to fix, impeller casing off, side casing off, change the faulty seals and it's worth changing the impeller shaft while it is all apart as the seals often wear a small ridge in the old shaft. Flush gearbox/clutch several times with cheap oil until it comes out the same colour as it goes in. Then put in the good stuff. Not too expensive to rectify, parts

Did you chuck your old pads out? If not, stick them back in and see if there is a difference. Your change in braking performance based on what you have said you have changed seems purely down to pad material/break in. If there is any lip on the edge of the disc, the old pads would have moulded to this, new flat pads may not be contacting the lipped disc over a large enough contact area. Have a look and keep us updated to what you find.

Indeed. And some nice shots on Pipeline. The production on this video is superb, note the camera is nearly always moving. You know to get this good the guy has shed some skin. I reckon his elbow scabs if placed end to end would reach from Edinburgh to Skye.

2008 Rev 3 May 2010 Stator fails. (Plastic cover removed after each usage) Sept 2010 Water pump casing corroded badly enough to need replacement.

Beuller.................? Beuller.................?. Beuller.................?.

So has anyone changed from a 250 Evo to a 290 Evo or vice versa and what were your reasons for doing so? Can anyone describe the differences they noticed either way? I have noticed that at the SSDT the majority of riders plump for the 250 suggesting it is easier to ride for prolonged periods or am I missing something?

Is it April 1st already?

In honour of 'The Few' on the 70th Anniversary