andy.t

Hi,my bikes been doing that also,to blead the brakes I sucked the brake fluid through from the blead nipple with a syringe,only problem is it still drags abit,when I removed the clutch cover to see what was going on I noticed the pressure plate is moving but not evenly its a bit lop sided, and I think this is causing the drag on my bike,let us know how you get on. Regards Andy.

Hi,dont know if this info is of any use but I did notice on Craig Mawlams website a quote with regards to the Majesty frame as follows....Sammy Miller TY 175 footrest kits that are easily modified to fit, a further benefit of the SM footrest kit is that the pegs are lower and modern rests can be used. which would indicate he has fitted them,could be worth giving him a ring. Regards Andy.

Dont bother trying to remove the parts just clean them up and stick it all back together,now I am talking to myself as no body wants to give me an answer.

Hi,to remove the bearings on my bike I used an M10 RAWL bolt.the type used for heavy duty fixing in walls,get a bolt,a lenght of 10mm stud about 1ft will do and something heavy with a 10mm hole in to act as a slide hammer.Place the RAWL bolt in the spacer or bearing,tighten up the nut which you should have on the stud against the RAWL bolt causing it to expand,slide on your heavy bit onto the stud,stick a nut on the end of the stud and hammer away.mine came out a treat.....Patent pending on idea. Regards Andy

Hi,I am giving my forks on a 1998 TX200 a check over and have removed the top cap with the seals in and the spring damper rod from inside, and would like to seperate the fork tube from the leg,is this a case of removing the bottom leg section and withdrawing or will they just pull apart. Regards Andy.

You all had your chance to tell me,managed to do it my own way.

Hi,anyone got any tips on removing the clip which retains the oil seal on a 98 tx200, the type where the seal is in the removable cap. Regards Andy.

Just been out to the garage and done it,found a link on this web site,should have looked in the first place,did fit me washer as well. info is from SPINNER Removing or installing the chain tensioner an spring are a 2 minute job if done correctly with no more tools than a screwdriver and a pair of pliers. To remove first take the spring tension off the chain tensioner arm then remove the pivot screw. With the tension off the arm it should come out very easily. To install put the assembly together with the spring on upside down,yes I said upside down! Make sure that the spring will be in the correct position when it is rolled over. Start the pivot screw into the swingarm mount, screw it in approx. 1/2 way do not tighten it all the way yet. Now roll the spring over making sure the spring does not lock into the tensioner arm, that is the last step, the front part of the spring will hit the swingarm at a angle, take a large flat blade screwdriver or flat bar stock and place it against the spring above the pivot bolt and hit it with your hand. The spring will pop into position with very little effort. Now tighten the pivot bolt slowly centering the spring as you go, when the bolt is tight then take pliers and install the spring on the tension arm and your done! I have been using this method for years with no damage or loss of spring pressure. After you try it you will be surprised how easy and fast it actually is to do

Hi,just received my new chain tensioner which is a Gas Gas part and have found that there is much more tension to be gained on the spring when trying fit it,also noticed that a small gap is present between the parts which hold the spring in location,which the spring forces into causing damage,which was evident on the old one which I removed,a washer could prevent this.Question is how do you load the spring and screw in the bolt and has anyone noticed the problem with the gap mentioned. Regards Andy.

Hi,its 126cc per leg and 10 to 30w oil,I have 15W in my TY175 seems to be fine. Regards Andy.

Hi,fitted my new sprockets to the TX200 1998 bike and have noticed a little play on the front sprocket to shaft,its not much but the question is should there be any and if not what would be the best method to eliminate it. Regards Andy.

Thanks for the info Barcota,could you just confirm that the gearbox only requires 380cc of oil because I was under the impression that it required 750cc dry or 650cc just drained,but then I know nothing. Regards Andy.

Hi ,I would like to change the gear oil on my TX ? TXT? 200 1998 GAS GAS,checking through previous listings some people mention car transmission oil,10w30&10w40 gearbox oil,so any idea what I should use(grade and brand),and could anyone tell me is the hex socket screw just above the sight glass where you fill it from. Regard Andy.

If your gramar stinks then she should have a wash

Hi,could you let me have your opinion on what would be the best size sprockets to fit for Clubman use on a TXT200.At present it has a 10/42 set up but I would like to fit new chain and sprockets before I Trial the bike as the existing are in a poor state. Regards Andy.

Hi,try looking on the net for rubber floor mats,try this one www.industrialmats.co.uk.

Thanks for the offer Peter but I managed to find an American website www.trialspartsusa.com that had the info,its a 98 model,No351 built. Dont suppose you know how much play the front disc should have because mine moves up and down on the fixings as well as the side to side float. Regards Andy.

Does anyone know how to date the year of manufacture of a txt200,are there any good suppliers of parts in the UK for this bike. Regards Andy.

Hi,the fork oil should be 85cc per leg and anything between 10W&30W should be OK.

Hi,if the spray can has a standard nozzle I would try and fit the type that comes with the larger cans that are supplied with car body panel spray cans,these will give a fan spray effect and if you spray the paint down the tubes with fan going down not across then you will get more paint on the frame and not in the air.You can apply as many coats as you like if the last looks good then the next should to,let coats touch dry in between, if any get a bit rough just flatten back with the wet and dry and apply more.Try to keep the paint looking wet as you spray and do long strokes from top to bottom of each tube section.If you spray when its too hot like 25dgc then you will find it hard to get a good finish anything as low as 10dgc on a dry day should be fine. Regards Andy. P.S. thats what I would do but could be talking out of my RSSSS.

Hi,it does sound like a carb fault,have a close look at the pilot jet and poke the hole with a thin object to see if its clear,some blockages are not obvious to the eye. Regards Andy.

Done the trial today and...........what a difference the boost bottle and RD350LC inlet has made, the bike feels much more lively all round,more power,even the exhaust note has got more of a crack to it,luv it.

ScottT, I only used the manifold as the reed cage section on the RD350 which enters into the barrel is far too big to fit the TY175,the only other thing is you have to shave a small section of rubber off the RD manifold which use to protrude into the RD cage which is easily done with a Stanley blade. I will let you know how it goes after the trial.

If anyone is interested I have now fitted a boost bottle to my TY175.I used an RD350LC inlet manifold which fits the bolt holes and aligns up the intake better,a length of 15mm chrome pipe to link to the 175Ml bottle which a friend made for me.I will be testing the bike out this Sunday at a local Trial.I think the link below should let you see a picture of it? [

Hi,your clutch should still work OK with one of the tangs missing,it could eventually cause the plates to distort if they are not already.