beta bodger

Thanks Chris I bear those tips in mind

I may be changing mine for a sherco and was wondering what i should check? Thanks all

Just found this post. Glyph I have a few things I could send you that might be of use (Mikuni manual, and a 2000 parts diagram) but where do I send them to? They are for a rev3 2000 model as thats what i have! Let me know if they are of use to you. Just had a thought any chance the moderators can do a sticky for all the essential manuals diagrams we need as Beta riders?

Thanks Glyph. Im going to order the parts tomorrow and then start to take the engine out...... It will never work again! Ha Ha

here here neonsurge! I too am inspired by Glyph's "give it a go" attitude. I guess im in for a steep learning curve myself soon.

Thanks guys! I think im going to get it welded for belt and braces. I have never taken a bike engine apart before but im mechanically minded so im going to give it a go. I take it i need to order a kick start gear cog (i take it thats what ive broken???) together with the associated gaskets. Is that the cog that has the tooth broken? Glyph i think the engine cases are just alumnium.

Update Ive been out and taken the clutch side off. It seems the cog has broke a tooth and dragged it to the engine case getting stuck and then forcing a break. What is this cog that's broken? The first shot shows both the broken cog and the hole: http://www.flickr.com/photos/12077623@N08/1225008547/ The second shows the hole: http://www.flickr.com/photos/12077623@N08/...in/photostream/ The exploded parts diagram on the Beta site does not help much with this....

What year is your bike? if its an older one try getting the longer one fitted to rev3's 2006 (i think) onwards. I changed mine and it helped lots!

Ok, so ive been on to Lampkins and its

Thanks Glyph i may have to use your guide in the near future! Do you think it likely to be a gear tooth?

Bike did not feel great today bit sluggish but nothing too noticable. Rode around a bit say for 1 hour and then slowed down to stop, changing down in the process. then noticed my bike had turned into a oil waterfall! It seems as if a gear tooth may have flown off and put a hole in the engine case! Engine Case http://www.flickr.com/photos/12077623@N08/1215519275/ The bits that came off/out http://www.flickr.com/photos/12077623@N08/...in/photostream/ Tooth is on the left. Should I A)Try and replace the engine case and clutch plates?? B Sell the bike it will cost a fortune? C) cry! Any idea how much a new engine case will cost? Help!

Glyph any chance of a full write up when your done???? I know there will be loads of us wanting to know how to do this if some havent already! Your efforts/mistakes are refreshing that we are not the only ones! Also you may find this interesting....A full engine rebuild http://offwidth.co.uk/bike/crm_rebuild/index.html Although its a crm most of the principles are the same

I know there are loads of checmicals out there muck off, wuth cleaner, pro wash. All of these have done the job for me in the past but they cost a fortune

I have a 2000 model rev 3 250cc and it came with no flywheel weight when i bought it off a jack the lad. Doh. I was wondering if a 270cc flywheel weight would fit my bike? Surely they are the same????? arn't they?

Just wondering if anyone had modified or bought some aftermarket pegs to make the position on the bike a little further back? Ive got a 2000 REV 3 and someone has told me they pushed the pegs back a bit on the newer models.

Thanks thats reassuring, I will see what a company will charge to get the whole lot done. I just cant believe that attitude of a company that promises built to last and gives an anti corrosion warranty but says they do rust and to spray it with WD40! Oh well i know better next time.

Ok so I know I have posted about this before as I have had problems with my rack rusting. Well today I contacted them. I explained that the rack is only 4 months old and has rust all over it. It frankly look really bad on the back of my car. The rack was purchased from Autowbars and they were great in the delivery and purchase. The racks are advertised "built to last" zinc plated. However, when I rang them this morning they told me they always rust and the zinc plating doesn't help! But what really pushes my button is their recommendation is to spray it with WD40 every week! What a con! Just goes to show dont take everything a manufacturer says as gospel. I now have to think about painting it up. Any recommendations? I was thinking Hammerite special primer and then Hammerite smoothrite?

Where can i get a stator for my mate from? I have tried Sandifords and they are frankly useless as they have messed my mate around for five weeks now waiting for them to come in from abroad. So if you have one in your shop or you know somewhere that has one in stock can you let me know please.

Its dead easy to pull off and there is nothing in it that will harm. I would not bother with flame mind. Caustic soda does the job to clean it out. Commonly found in supermarkets under drain unblockers.

Motoplat rewind them and they often come back far better than the stock ones! You can find them here. Dont be put off with them being in spain. http://www.uk-motoplat.com/ Saying that if you are unsure about bike maintenance get a bike shop to replace it.

I too purchased some boyesen reeds and to be honest they did not make too much of a difference when out on the bike. The exhaust sounded a bit dull and the bike was a little more resposive other than that not much really. I have come to the conclusion that this was all down to me running the bike too rich. Now i have changed my jets the bike has been transformed! My advice - if you are buying boyesens then think about your jets too! I am currently running: BPR5ES Plug - Lampkins recommended this plug. I was running BP7ES and I was told by Lampkins this was designed for the Spanish summer! 145 Main Jet 27.5 Pilot Removed flywheel weight Boyesen Reeds I have gone from a black oily plug constantly fouling to a nice brown coloured plug! I am wearing my smug look!...for now

I repack my exhaust once every 6 moths or so and just use standard Roof Insulation Fibreglass it seems to work fine. I too have heard roof insulation is just as good. Does anyone have any evidence to prove this isn't the case?

Thanks I might give one of those Radycool ones a go.

If i am honest thats why i need to put one back on. I melted a bit of plastic on my boot and thought hum...... best get a sheild back on. As you said as soon as you come off you knock the bolts.