If you stop the engine vie the kill switch or lanyard how does that sequence the engine as it is totally random from a 4 cycle position of the engine?
The engine will die and coast to a halt regardless of its rotational sequencing and its final position in the 4 cycle is totally random to the mass, gearing and rotational speed when stopped
Are you saying when you stop the engine with the stop switch or lanyard the CDI box decides what position in its cycle to stop the engine at ???
To do that the CDI box would have to have a sensor telling the CDI box the pistons position or the cranks position.
Even then how could it stop the rotating mass that preciously?
Total agreement that from a mechanical stress on the engine perspective killing the bike with it in gear is not a good idea.
I am more curious about Jimmyl's comment in how it stops the engine in the correct sequences.
Please educate us in what that means?
I will grab some popcorn 🥺
I would suggest it stops injecting fuel so engine stops clean
if you stall potential for fully charged cylinder full of fuel
Presume you let it warm up on tick over for a short while before opening throttle.
Are you doing a lot of stop start riding.
Do you stop it with the kill button -don't stall it to stop.
Try staring it and just let it tick over for 10 mins - they often sort themselves out -I have had it on cold days when doing a few section close to each other at the start of a trial, -just leave it ticking over when you walk the section
you find a friendly land owner - give a them a cash donation every time you ride but accept there is probably no insurance cover
get your local club to run an official practice sessions / closed to club / training event with correct ACU permit - that will involve organisation etc and by tied to specific dates and some rules to be followed (c of c/ coach etc etc )and May mean venues become over used
find a commercial enterprise that will set up a piece of land and run it as a business
all but option 1 will cost
we are lucky down in wales to have all options but I cannot condone option 1
Hi all. I have a year 2000 Montesa 315r that needs a new rear brake calliper. Brake callipers for this age of bike are not available to buy new. does anyone know if the more modern calliper that fits the 2001 bikes onward and the 4rt can be made to fit the older bike? Any knowledge and advice would be greatly appreciated and would keep this good old bike competing in clubman trials.
The wheel would need machining to make it narrower or you could get a newer wheel
The pre 2000 hub has a longer bearing boss but disc is in same place
For the really muddy stuff I have tried to copy some of the good southern 4rt riders.
Its almost 2/3 revs but constant - maybe 3rd gear - slip the clutch at a consistent point and control speed and grip with back brake - once you get momentum you can really sit into the bike and give it the beans.
I can not confess to be an expert at this technique -out of maybe 5 goes 3 I rocket up the climb -1 is almost a total loop out and the 5th is a spinning mess!!.
I don't ride that kind of mud too often so only practices it now and again - but watching some of the other 4rt riders who have it down to a art it works well.
For normal type mud its essential to get get some revs on before the hazard and ride on the overrun - get some speed on then back off once moving and keep playing with riding on the over run.
You can try and do with swing arm in or out - used to leave it in but now preferer to take swing arm out.
Use a bungy around the exhaust and onto spindle slot on swing arm to hold it up while you undo bolts etc. Takes the weight nicely
Use suitable sockets and vice to push old out and new in.
Remember which side the linkage bolts come out as a bit of a fiddle if you have a stand still on the bike and also need to jiggle through chain slipper and swing arm.
I engrave/scratch onto the dog bone and side plates with left/right and an up arrow as soon as I take them out as easy to get mixed up plates and
Where do people get ther service kits for the 4rt please? Is £80/£120 about right for a service kit? Could someone point me in the best place to get it from around the northwest please
In the past I would always do with swing arm left in the bike but last few times found easiest to take swing arm out .
Just unscrew the rear brake hose clamps
If the swing arm dog bone bearing is seized in it gives you best access to get out and replace.
Sockets, threaded rod, vice etc or pullers used to push old out and new in.
Remember which direction the bolts come out of the linkages as some will only go back in from same side due to the stand.
One will wiggle past the chain slider despite looking like it wont.
The main swing arm bearing I have never seen wear on the 8? monts I have had (315/4RT) just grease and pit back in but if you have new you could swap but you may find the genuine Honda ones better than aftermarket replacement so save for a rainy day.
pre 2015 and pre 2020 swap ok - its just the front edge of the mudguard where it sits on the back edge of the tank.
I also used to run older rear mudguards on my 2015 and newer bikes during winter and practices as better in the mud.
The latter models are quiet a bit different - the back of the tank is a little bit higher so the recall there is a taller rubber support needed and the mud catcher/support at the back of the air box is different.
The alternative parts would be available but not sure how it would marry up with the back of an earlier tanks as the new tanks are quite a bit different on the top.
One thing I Think Sammy Miller said is use the tools you are carrying at least once in the garage - no point carrying a tool around that breaks/doesn't actually fit or several tool that you are never going to use.
Can you cut and shut several tools together - I weld the end of an Allen key onto my adjustable spanner for front spindle - saves carrying 6" of Allen key around. You could weld a socket etc to one if more suited.
Try and standardize on bolts -ie fit allen screws rather than hex head bolts to the bike -minimal cost but 1 tool does all - I think my mono yam could be virtually stripped with just a screwdriver. couple of Allen keys and my multi tool adjustable spanner - SSDT prep👍
Again Sammy would fit as many tools to to the bike as possible and a spare clutch and throttle cable routed in place and taped to existing ones.
Some money - again Sammy carried notes not coins as lighter -no good in the wilderness but may help get you a lift home.
If not a tube (front one -lighter) and will do a rear if needed to get you home then at least a puncture kit and pump - if only trail riding then time is not as much an issue as in an event .
Possibly fuel in case you tip it upside down -gaffer tape -cable ties
I seem to recall that the temp sender is not just a switch but one that gives varying output as the temp rises - the ecu decides when the fan comes on. I think the Ecu uses the temp info for fuel setting and limo home modes etc
Backfiring Montesa 4RT
in Montesa
Posted
I would suggest it stops injecting fuel so engine stops clean
if you stall potential for fully charged cylinder full of fuel
this is the difference a carb and injected engine
how’s the popcorn 😂😂👍