lemur

Why don't you just re-anodize the original aluminum rims 🤔 there are lots of companies that specialize in aluminum anodizing.

I have a 2021 and a 2023 the replacement spring was difficult to install and broke within a very short time, then I went for the extension type spring as a more reliable alternative and I can source them at a hardware store, so I figure why not just set it up for that type of spring. If there is no spring the bike does not roll backwards and the tensioner arm binds up.

If we want to get all scientific there a 4 types of stainless steel and it is the chromium content that largely alters the magnetic attraction of the steel and the possibility of nickel added which has a grain that does not make a good magnet, all steel contains iron. The problem with the replacement spring in question is, they bent it in the wrong place.

Yep, I bought one of those too, it's not bent correctly, ended up sourcing a package of regular assorted coil springs from a hardware store and improvising something that works as good or better to the original.

No spark happens at the pickup coil, it's just a coil that briefly produces a small electric charge that in all reasonable logic goes to a little black box ignition control module just like a regular motorcycle, that in turn sends an amplified charge to the secondary coil producing the spark at the spark plug. I'll bet everything to do with the fuel injection is just like any other electric pump fuel injection system and everything to do with the modern 2-stroke motor making a spark at the spark plug is just like every other modern 2-stroke motorcycle that makes a spark at the spark plug. ... You do have 2 small black boxes, one is going to be dedicated to the Fi and one is going to be the ignition, odds are nobody short of the original manufacturer knows what is inside them which might be Hitachi or some such company.

I use an oscilloscope to test the AC outputs, nothing beats that, your pickup coil should ohm meter test easy and be adjusted (if possible) for the closest proximity to the magnets to optimize performance, pickup is simply a field coil that initiates the spark and provides timing for the fuel injection.

imho an upgrade would be to keep the small battery and add a capacitor and if it is only a cold start problem install a jumper port where you can easy plug in a small power supply.

If there is no spark start by checking the stator windings and ignition pickup outputs, your spark plug does not use the capacitor to make a spark. ... interesting that one would consider a capacitor to be an upgrade to a battery 🤔 if I was building fuel injected motorcycles I would think a capacitor in place of a battery would be a cost and possibly weight saving measure, not a performance improvement. Both are power storage devices but a battery maintains an electric charge for a considerable time where a capacitor retains a charge until it is discharged and then it becomes basically flat or dead. The cap won't charge until you start cranking the kickstarter, a battery in theory would be ready to provide full power right from the first kick.

Generally the capacitor is not a tremendously expensive or special part and worth stocking a spare to test or replace, the primary reason it is on there is because your bike is fuel injected and Fi needs DC power in the form of a battery and or capacitor to supply sufficient electrical power to the DC fuel pump. Symptom of a failed cap on your ride would be lack of fuel pressure not lack of spark.

Sadly yes, nothing that a new engine didn't fix.

Uncontrolled acceleration can be caused from intake vacuum leak. ... that is where you have a very small air leak type hole somewhere between the carb and cranckcase.

Describe the symptoms, there is a huge knowledge base available here, you might be able to do a lot or all the work yourself, as motorcycles go it's not a hard one to learn to work on, almost for certain the original bike purchase included a very good parts and service manual, you need one 👍

Kubota Premium UDT Hydraulic/Transmission Fluid specifically formulated for transmissions with wet brakes as well as power steering and power takeoff units with wet clutches 👍 At a small fraction of the cost of what those other guys use, I can change it out twice as often and still save money.

You're not using the clutch, your reed valves need attention or the previous owner added weight to the flywheel would be my first guess. The 1980's TY should spool up much more quickly compared to a 1970's TY'

You aren't measuring the voltage correctly or your alternator has a problem, your alternator outputs AC voltage. Primary coil can also be meter tested for continuity and should be in the realm of only a few ohms.