tony283

From memory, Sammy started building these frames around the end of 1972 and in those days a lot of the Spanish Trials bikes arrived in kit form from the factory to avoid UK purchase tax. I traded my 250 Bult in to Sam and purchased the 325 in the Hi-Boy frame in early 73. The machine looked fabulous with the bright nickel frame, alloy bash plate and slimline tank seat unit finished in BRG with cream flashes. However the Hi-Boy frame does NOT suit everyone and certainly not ME! The footrests were TOO high and it resulted in too much weight over the front end. By and large my personal opinion was that the stock frame was better and didn't have any real handling problems. Of course as we now know the footrests of nearly all machines of this era were not far enough back and also a little higher than ideal by today's standards. Tony

The splitting airbox seems to be a problem on the 348 and 349 and many bikes that I have repaired or rebuilt all have had this problem. With the full width rear mudguard you can replace the complete box with a podded filter which is a good replacement if the old box can't be repaired. The new box is not cheap! I would have thought the engine is best left alone and you would be better buying some new rear shocks and tyres. The 349 is not everybodys taste as I seem to remember they had a long wheelbase, low handlebars and by modern standards the footrests need to be repositioned further back. If you do buy it you will need some oddball metric allens 4.5mm and a slim deep well 7mm for the lower barrel bolts. Other memory notes, they eat plugs and condensers and the engine sprocket has a woodruff key on a tapered shaft. However that being said they were a good bike. Tony

Sounds like the plates are sticking or have dried out. This can often happen if the machine has sat around for some time. Before ripping everything to pieces it might be worth taking it outside, and hopefully having made sure you have a smooth throttle response and the motor won't run away, point it in a safe direction and push off with both feet and then when you are rolling put it into gear. Obviously the clutch will not work but as you ride round keep exercising the clutch and usually as the motor heats up (about 30 mins) the clutch should suddenly start working. Tony

Now there is food for thought! If you read the "New" adjusted rules section in the AHRMA handbook it appears you can ride in as many classes as you like providing you pay the entry fee for them, so in theory you can ride in one class and claim points in others even if you don't ride, and or, don't even, have a machine eligible for the class....... which of course clears up any problems from last year!! I think the rules must have been written by a lawyer. ..... and of course AHRMA can, probably will, as they did last year, change the rules before, during, and after the event/season as they see fit? Perhaps there is a shortage of Championship Jackets....... not that I'm bitter! Tony

For those coming to Buckeye (AZ Cycle Park) there is an in depth Preview of the 2 Day event and some pictures of the 24 provisional sections that we may use over the 2 days. Great parking and don't forget the Banquet on the Friday night. All the details on my "Blog" under "BUILDING BUCKEYE" Tony

Sounds about right. Tony

I wouldn't advise altering the clutch itself as these bikes were NOT designed to be ridden in sections using the clutch. (See Mick Andrews!) If you want an easier pull then the best course of action is to fit a new modern cable with either a clutch lightener device or splash out and use one of the newer and of course more expensive levers. The new levers come with needle roller bearings in the perch and are a delight to use. I have the new levers on several of my bikes, but in general terms you are far better learning to ride without touching the "thing" after you have set off into the section. If you have your bike set up to idle, then reduce it to the stall and try riding sections just using delicate throttle control and letting the flywheel action take you through tight turns where you thought you would need that clutch thing! Tony

Very simple.... it is Not the original stand for the Ty. The Ty250A has the stand on the left whereas the TY175 and (493) framed Ty250's have the frame on the right which is about 2" longer than the Ty250A. The Ty250C stand should be straight. Tony

The part missing in the first picture is the stand bracket as the frame appears to be a TY250A which will have 434 stamped on the headstock. The later models have the stand on the other side on the swinging arm. Not clear from the other pictures what may be missing but there should be a bracket on the top seat tube (right side) to fit the rear silencer and one on the center of that tube for the rear mudguard. Bear in mind that center bracket is slightly offset. If you angle the rear shocks you can go shorter in length but you will need the Majesty chainguard which is cheap and looks a lot better. The Miller pegs, I have to agree, need bracing as the metal is quite soft. You may find as this is a "A" frame that the bottom rail is not drilled as the later ones are and you will need a threaded rod all the way through. Also the swinging arm bolt, which comes in various lengths, may not be long enough to accept the Miller pegs. I have some articles on my "Blog" with all the pictures and tips which you might find helpful. Search in Archives: "Building the Glitzmobile" 13 Nov 2007 "Superglitz goes National" 3 Jan 2008 "77 gets her 2008 Makeover" 28 Jul 2008 "Ahrma Vintage Trials Sandia" 18 Sep 2008 ..... with Mick Andrews riding the Glitz The tank looks good! Tony

The carb works well on the Cub but I had exactly the same problem. I believe the fault is the length of the inlet tract. I did not extend mine as I changed to the Del Orto which is perfect in all areas with no spit back,but it does have a longer inlet. Tony

Lizzy, BJ Racing stock all the parts for the VM26 for the MAR application. Just tell them the year and model and they will send you exactly what you need for your machine. Tony

Normally yes, but I fit mine the other way to keep all the nuts on the right side. Tony

Alan, Nothing on the brake side, mounts up flush. On the other side there is a spacer that fits into the hub. The split spacer IS longer and you can then position the lower fork tube for correct fork alignment, then tighten up. Speedo drive is internal in the brake hub. Tony

The early MAR Ossa's had an IRZ carb on them and therefore the Mikuni will most likely be an after market flange mounted VM 26. For most low altitude running you will need a 150 Main and a 35 pilot. Tony

First point, you can't intentionally start the Cub in gear! You must be in neutral. It is quite normal to ease in the clutch with the engine in neutral to seperate the clutch plates by depressing the kickstart GENTLY. You don't say how the chain kept coming off, is your cub modified with a tensioner or does it have a chain guide? Both mechanisms can easily get bent in a trial and will run the chain off with ease. Secondly look at the tension in the chain and check that it is consistent all the way round it's loop, use the connecting link at a datum. Might be time for a new chain. Tony

Best bet for all Yam parts is Speed&Sport in PA. www.yamatopdog.com .......go to the bike in the cat,in your case Ty175 1976, that will give you the part numbers then ring them toll free. Tony

Now when you come to take the clutch cover off, that too will most likely have phillips screws which can either burr or snap off. You can use an impact wrench to loosen them or using a phillips of the correct size, with a vice grip attached to the shaft of the screwdriver, ONE firm tap with the Hide Hammer on the end of the driver, then a sharp tap on the vice grip while maintaining inward force on the driver. When you rebuild I would use allen bolts. Tony

the 2009 AHRMA season opener kicks off at AZ Cycle Park with a 2 Day event on 7/8 Feb. Get the snow off the trailer and start planning. Friday night has the Off Road Banquet with the 2008 Awards and then 2 days of trialing with 10-12 sections a day. If you haven't been before its mainly sand with some good climbs including the "Graded Hill" and there may be a bit of mud as well. Plenty of flat parking for big rigs on a good hard surface. Tony

The barrel and piston look very good to me, much better than most and the I75 is prone to piston and barrel gouging! I would fill the lower portion up with any good oil to at least cover ALL of the crankcase bearings an ATF oil is good at penetrating most bearings. Leave it for a couple of days (patience) then drain off and proceed as per previous instructions. I would personally use the top half as is but do clean the rings. If you get it freed off, as seems likely, then you can check the bearings by seeing if there is any "lift" on the shaft, do this by lifting the flywheel. With the ammount of rust you will need to replace the points and condenser so get a TY175 flywheel puller (the 250 will not work). I suspect the stator plate will be a mess along with the inside of the flywheel. Tony

Perhaps I should not comment , but there again perhaps I should. This is not your standard run of the mill "Trial" this is the The Pre 65 Scottish! What does that mean? It is a once a year Prestigious Event organiized by the Edinburgh Club to cater for primarily older gentlemen on older machines. It says QUITE CLEARLY in the regs that the club ( quite rightly ) reserves the right to determine WHO rides! Now if you have the regs on hand just accept that the "Club" exercises that right as it should, to ensure that machines of the era with riders of recognized ability and track record are given a first slice of the pie when it comes to entries. The rest of YOU, no matter how good, or what machine, then go into a ballot and if you are PRIVILEGED, and lucky enough you are IN ! Life is NOT fair so accept it and quit the whining and bitching, and if pre 65 really is your bag, then volunteer to help out with all the extra behind the scenes work that for the most part goes unmentioned, then maybe, just maybe, your 2010 entry MIGHT not go in any ballot and you may be in the "Club's discretion bag" Wise up gentlemen, this is part of OUR trialing heritage, if you are in, congratulations I'll see you there, if not sorry but keep trying and you will succeed! Roll on May and Maillaig Kippers and Mc'Ewans Heavy/Export /Special Anon

As a dedicated trials rider with over 45 years in the sport, my first ever trophy being in 1963, I feel compelled to comment. There is, in reality, no difference between AHRMA and ITSA in the desire to promote the sport. Trials are trials however you lay out the sections. In the AHRMA circle there are 4 lines dependant on machine and ability. In ITSA you have 5 different sections with no splits and ride 5 sections of YOUR class and 5 of the sections class of the next LOWER class. With peer checking or buddy checking it makes for a lot of fun and and a very sociable event where a little "sympathy", but still within the rules, can be exercised. From my own experience there is NO difference in the severity of the sections whether you ride AHRMA or ITSA. ITSA has a more relaxed view point on machine eligibility and that was ALL that was sought with this years proposal being to allow the last of the Twinshocks to have a National Championship within the AHRMA body. Whether you like it or not people turn up and ride these twinshocks at AHRMA events and it is a mystery as to why we won't recognise people like Bailey Tucker riding a 1980's Honda and give credit to a young man who choses to ride both disciplines and in my opinion will very soon be the USA Champion on modern machines and could equally run away with Modern Classic Experts if he accepts my offer to ride the Glitzmobile in 2009. The Trustees, for whatever reason, chose not to give this group of machines a Championship of their own and as the Trustees views are not made public we have the continued discontent because no reasons are given. The proposal did not seek to have an "advanced Line" or 1A, merely to allow post 79 machines to compete riding the already established current 4 lines dependant on ability. At no time was there ever a desire to make sections more difficult or to move away from the excellent foundations of AHRMA or vintage trials. Equally ITSA has no pretence of making sections ridiculously difficult or dangerous but has a seperate class for those "last of the era" machines. Clearly if you are a true "EXPERT" you may return a better score on the latest machine of that era and beat your best friends who are riding a 10 year older machine....... but who cares.... you ride what you bring ! Now if WE, as trials riders in the vintage world, wish to promote our sport we should stop the petty bickering and whining and support our local orgs and National systems for the good of all. If YOU can do better than what we currently have... STEP UP ...... and DO IT....... a lot of us are trying....... but we need your support both on the org and on the turnout, constructive critism is excellent but if things are to improve it needs your PHYSICAL input. Tony

I don't think Yamaha make a replacement part but you can do as Swooshdave suggests or make your own. The easiest is to fill the two holes and slit with black silicone, allow to dry and then shave off the excess. You can make one to fit from any old windscreen beading which has the grooves already cut in the rubber and this can make a good professional looking part. Don't forget to seal off the cable hole at the front with a bolt or bung. Finally having got shot of the autolube use a small vacuum rubber on the inlet on the carb. Tony

Alan, I have used Speed and Sport in PA for many years and they have always been right on the ball. If you ring them on their toll free number 1 866 455 6831 you will get to the parts department and they will ship same day. You can also buy all the internal parts for that petcock and rebuild it yourself in about 10 minutes. They will leak a little until the rubber expands. I have rebuilt several quite cheaply. Tony

The TY175 one piece seat is only connected by the internal tank rubbers that fit on the inside of the unit and then slot into their receiving cups at the front of the frame behind the headstock. The Ty250 unit has a bolt that fits directly in front of the seat pad whereas the Ty175 does not as the seat pad comes further forward and fits up to the edge of the tank. Most people drill some small holes in the rear fibreglass and use cable ties to secure the unit to the rear frame rails. Check to see if this has been done and if so snip them undone. disconnect the fuel pipe and then gentle lift the rear of the unit. If the "saddle rubber" is still fitted there may be a little resistance, check by looking underneath just infront of the rear down tube, it is black and about 1.5 inches thick. Raise the rear of the unit about 20-30 degrees and then slide backwards towards the rear mudguard. Tony

Alan, Speed & Sport in PA will have them. Part No: 434-24500-03-00 or you can buy all the defective internal parts from them and repair it yourself if it is just leaking. Other stockists will be BJ Racing but remember where the NEW part is coming from and you will be paying a little more! Tony