tony283

I can't imagine why anyone riding a twinshock would want to do "stoppies" or "nose wheelies" as they have no place in "No Stop" trials rules. I agree with David that Yam twinshock front brakes are fine for their intended purpose, as long as you keep the actuator clean and smooth in use. As an aside some of the new OEM front cables do have a slightly tighter radius on the mounting tube where it bolts onto the front fork and it may help to straighten this a little to give a smoother pull on the cable. Also the new levers with needle roller bearings will give a lot more sensitivity for 2 finger braking. Tony

Frankie, Sounds like fuel starvation, caused by corrosion or petrol gumming up. Take the tube off the petcock and see if you get a "good" flow on normal and/or reserve. If that is good check after your in line filter. If still good then take off the bowl and blow through the fuel passage way. Finally take out the float rod and let the valve drop in your palm. Lightly emery the the valve and replace and check it moves up and down. Most likely stuck in the up position and a little fuel is seeping past to allow you to start. Tony

t-shock 250, Well you spotted the odd man out! They were, like the Hondas, another overpriced machine. Had they been imported to the USA in 93 then they would have been twice the price of any of their rivals. The same engine went into the Scorpa for the last 15 years so I guess the motor can be considered a classic. Taking up on the Honda points, both the TLM and the RTL inspire confidence immediately you get on them. The balance and "platform" feels just right and the performance from the motors is smooth and powerful when required. With regards to spares, yes I agree they are not always readily available, but if you know where to look they can be found. The fenders (mudguards) on these came from Japan and I had the tank shrouds reworked and painted locally. They may be a little outmoded against todays bikes but in my opinion they rate as "classics" of that era. Tony

Tony Edit - Tony have to remove the first part, the RTL is stunning, absolutley stunning but no she wouldn't let me have it...sent you a PM

Andy, These faults can often be difficult to find but from the symptoms you describe it could be that the black wire from the source coil is shorting ....... as the engine heats up the plastic can melt and then short out. As it cools down the plastic self seals and it will start. Have a look at the black wire and see if it hard and brittle.... if so replace. Check the faces on the points are bright and no covering or black spots. Set at 15 thou, likewise plug at 22 thou. Last try it with the kill switch wire disconnected as that could also be shorting out when hot. Tony

Nobody really made a decent trials glove back then. For the SSDT it was common to have some big thick warm ones for the road sections and then stuff them in your jacket for the "bare handed" sections. Scottish mud and gloves don't mix! The grips then were Doherty soft and black and come the evening your palms were as black as soot.... and it would not wash off for weeks. here's a pic of the same grip on the clutch side Tony

and the mystery rider is........ FRED MICHAUD Tony

With all the recent discussion and talk over frames, head angles, footpegs and geometry it can only be said GOOD LUCK to anyone who wants one. I had an original from Sammy with the 325 motor after trading in the 72 Bultaco, which I considered to be near perfect! The Hi-boy frame looked gorgeous, obviously had a ton of ground clearance, the green/cream tank unit really did make it as Greeves says the "Canine Testicles" but it was nearly impossible to ride as the footrests were too high and too far forward..... of course we didn't know about those things back then. I went over the bars more times than I care to remember. Strangely having just had the same problem with a Sammy framed Cub the footrests were 2 inches too high and 2 inches too far forward. Good luck with the frame, maybe ideal if you are 5' 2'' tall! Tony

Bernie Mart John Reynolds in jacket Jim Sandiford 1980 John Lampkin Tony

Michael, The question of post 79 twinshocks has been asked on several occasions and so far has been rejected on the statement "It will mean another class"...... I'm sure the question will continue to be asked as owners of machines in the "banned group" grow. It can also be argued that the 1 line, currently only used by Modern Classic Experts would get a lot more use. We still have a Girder class and to be quite frank there can only be a handfull of riders who own these machines compared to all the post 79 bikes that are currently just sitting around waiting for some fun competitions. Tony

We seem to be going through the same "growing pains" on this side of the Atlantic and so far the only positive set of rules we have is from our newest organization ITSA. AHRMA does not allow any machine in competition post 1979 which of course excludes all the SWM's, Cagivas/Merlins, Italjet, Fantics etc. These machines have absolutely NOWHERE to ride unless you compete in the same classes as modern monoshocks. ITSA (International Twin Shock Association) has a class for these "banned" machines and it also encompasses "specials" within the same class, the only rules for THIS class are Twin Shock Air Cooled Engine Drum Brakes I have an article on my blog "The Twinshock Movement" which deals with all our current rules and a few of my thoughts. Tony

Spencer, Depends what parts you are looking for? Bj Racing can carry a good stock but you can often get them direct from Sammy Miller in the UK. Postage will be high but they usually arrive in 5 days. Another source is Speed & Sport in CA. If you need any of the phone numbers I have them. Tony

Martin, I don't think the Mikuni is standard, would have been an IRZ or on the later models the AMAL. Mikunis are good and depending what jetting you have, about a 2 slide, 150 main and 35-40 pilot then the Airscrew should start at 1 and 3/4 out as a datum and adjust from there. I have a few stories on rebuilding and riding them on my blog: "The Bulldozer from Spain" "More from the SSDT" "Guernsey Revisted" Good luck, great bike Tony

Oak Flats Tony

I presume your intention is to do AHRMA events as you are in the USA ? The most common forks are usually Betors from early Ossas. Bear in mind for AHRMA events no major component, frame,engine, forks may be later than 1974. With the Cub the two big essentials for the motor are, in my opinion, electronic ignition for reliability, and a good carb set up for performance. I have 3 Cub articles on my blog; "The Tiger Cub" "Nursing a Cub" "One Trick Cub" They may give you some ideas of the challenges you face and the delights when you get it right! Tony

Dave, Next one is at Oak Flats on Apr 6th, easy to find just off the main Phoenix-Globe Rd. 0830 Start! Hope he makes it, same area where all Cman videos were made. Tony

Yes, and a great trial it was too! Tony

Dave, They were an absolute godsend on the Ossa which had awful brakes, and in many cases on a steep slippery downhill were much smoother in their application that applying full BRAKE and CLUTCH. Also if you were unlucky enough to stall the motor then by deft use of the decompressor you could easily get the motor to smoothly refire. On the big bike like my Enfield it is the only way to stop the bike when in neutral for all the reasons Bullfog gave. Tony

Are you sure that you have blocked the oil inlet on the Carb? On the TY175 the oil coming from the pump goes directly into the Carb on the right hand side at the front. I use any auto shop vac plugs which fit over the pipe and won't fall off. As you say it was running before you removed the autolube system this is the most likely cause. Failing that then clean the carb blowing through the the choke and pilot jets. If you think the problem is ignition related remove the kill switch wire from the live wire, set the points to 15 thou, fit a new plug at 22 thou, NGK B9ES or a B7ES, and I'm assuming you are now running 40:1 ? Tony

Can't answer for the Montesa 348 but for any twinshock with crap brakes they are good for steep descents where you need engine braking to be controlled, a bit like a Jake Brake on a 18 wheeler truck. They were almost essential on the Ossa! Also very good on bikes that were prone to "gassing up" after a long slow downhill, followed by the uphill where you would traditionally end up with the wwwwweeerrrrrh, wwwwweerrrh until all the crankcase compression had equalized and it fired cleanly..... early Bultacos were very bad on this aspect.......... and finally a very useful overtaking tool if you ever ride ISDT, ISDE or enduro events....... rocket up behind someone and give him a couple of squirts.... he will instantaneously slow down and look to see what has gone wrong with his engine and making that God awful noise..... at which point you zoom past! Tony

Mollygreen, I think you may have a commercial winner on your hands here! The SM system bolts onto the swinging arm bolt and as many of us have found bends backwards and in, due to the lack of strength in the unit. Of course they are easily fitted and relatively cheap, and even if you have a 74 frame without the bottom lugs you can always use a threaded rod all the way through the bottom tube. The BJ version requires a high level of engineering skill to machine off the original peg lugs then drill and tap them for the fixing bolts. I see from your later pictures that you drill straight through and then use a bolt from the inside of the frame which should put the task within everybody's engineering limits. From my own personal preferences I have found the ideal to be 37.5 inches from from wheel spindle to center of rest and 12 inches high. Good work! Tony

Your best bet, and cheapest is a VM 26, standard settings will be about 150 main and 35 pilot, and a 2 slide. If you fit new reeds you may need to alter the the jetting by one size, likewise you may need to alter them if you are using a podded cleaner. Also if you are still on a posilube system the new VM 26 does not have an oil inlet from the pump. tony

Majestyman340, As they say "You don't quit riding because you get old, you get OLD because you quit riding!" ..... therefore ride as often as you can. I too am in that same age group and I still enjoy trials as much as ever. I plan on riding 6 local AZ events and 19 AHRMA Nationals this year. I usually do a couple of Vintage Beginner Trials Schools along the way as my "give back" to a sport that has given me years of pleasure, long may the fun continue. .....and as my Doctor once said at the Scottish "In a case like this my advice is DRINK HEAVILY" Tony

Can I ask a really stupid question?Were the Kawasakis every really competitive when they were new? Even with, presumably, full factory tweaking? I was given one of the early ones to "test" for a month when they first arrived in the UK by the then importer Alec Wright. I rode it in a couple of minor events and I can't say that I really liked it compared to the Yam and the Ossa. Of course Don Smith and Richie Sunter rode them pretty well but they never seemed to feature prominently in any of the majors. Probably a good bike with some of the alterations you suggest. Good luck with the project. Tony

For AHRMA readers of Vintage Views you will see we actually got FOUR AND A HALF PAGES on Trials (including the cover) so if you have comments on events, the way they are run or how you would like them improved give Ed a call or send your article to Alice Sexton at AHRMA Tony