tony283

Here's one for all you wannabee roadracers, ever wondered what it is like? Read my latest article called "A Day at the Track" it might give you some insight into what it is actually like and then you can appreciate the skills required to be the next Valentino or Casey! Humbly Tony

Yes, you can if you wish but most of us take the whole side case off and then make a plate to cover the hole. Tony

Outlaw Dave thinks Tony? I tend to agree with him, but at least it's the same family. Tony

The best way is to remove the case and take out the unit, then make a blanking plate and gasket to seal the hole. You can however just remove the pump. Remember to block up the tube holes in the rubber grommet where it comes out of the case. Also a good idea to block off the cable inlet port where it goes into the case. If you are using the standard carb get a little vacuum hose block off for the inlet pipe on the carb where the oil used to go. Remove all the pipes container and bracket. Change the throttle cable. Run on about 40:1 Tony

Here's one for Big John, "The 2008 Season Preview" has a picture, 2 in fact of a nice trophy, with a picture of a greeves Works rider of he 60's Who is he? Tony

It sounds like fuel starvation, either from the "rough handling" or the fuel pipe being pinched, but I would suspect that it's the pilot jet that is blocked. Try blowing the pilot jet through again and then try it. Tony

Be very careful with Castrol R .....as I remember it doesn't MIX with anything else.

C'mon, you are kidding! It's a bike rack mounted on the bonnet! Double sided I think? Tony

OTF, From my experiences the rear spindle was prone to bending, along with a lot of other soft Spanish steel of the period, and this could cause the chain to jump the sprocket and whip forward causing the damage. There was a BIG chain guide as well as the tensioner but that used to bend as well. Without the cut backs the chain can be difficult to put on, not imposs, but very annoying if you have watch makers fingers! Tony

Big John, I still have a valid British Passport and my British Driver's Licence valid until 06 08 2016 and I presume I don't need a licence to buy an AMAL? or do I need a permit for one of those? Do I need to renew my FIM Licence? Tony

Big John, The idea of another trundle round them' Highlands sounds most appealing! The organisers might think the RE in it's present form is a UFO ? See "Reshaping a Bullet" on my web or for the lastest add ons "Thoughts for 2008" I don't think they would like the Mikuni.... but I do. Back to Unidentified 'ing Objects, where are all these James things coming from? I see there are SIXTEEN entered, I didn't know James sold 16 bikes, perhaps you are dredging them out of the Loch as you dump the Tiger Cubs. James, Fanny B, Cotton and that Dot thing I thought had all been pushed in there when Bultaco, Montesa and Ossa arrived on the scene? RA Castle 1970,71,72 John Bull 1970,71,72,76,77,78 we would have had 75 until Ted broke his forearm on Friday on the Mamore Road Tony

Very hard compound, not really suitable for serious trials use.

Copemech, That about sums it up. 30 years in the RAF, a few years teaching in Saudi, 8 SSDT's a couple of ISDT's and now year 4 years on the AHRMA circuit. The "Blog" will reveal all from 1963 to today! Tony

If it can go wrong, it certainly will in Scotland! Bolts you thought were secure will fall out, inlet rubbers and exhaust mountings will fracture, spokes will break etc. etc. Depending on your bike, how recently did you build it? will determine what you need to do. My pre Scottish check list and preparation was always the same, full strip down of machine, drill and wire lock swinging arm bolts or nuts. Mount a second spare coil and plug lead somewhere close to the other one. New tires, tubes and security bolts and clean the rims then tape them to stop spokes coming loose. New sprockets and chain, and tensioner spring if required. Check underside of tank for rubbing and fit extra cushioning if needed.... a fuel leak is the end! How old are the Handlebars? ..... fit new ones. Grips, fit a new set and glue! Take a poly tube and push it through the bars from the dummy side leaving 1/2 inch protruding (a syphon tube just in case). What state are levers and cables? Always fit new cables and secure the old ones (if useable) to them. Tape the operating ends to keep Scotland out! Fit a new Throttle cable and carry the old one as a spare. Fit a spare lever on the downtubes somewhere, it will double for both. Make sure all nuts and bolts are either self locking or have a dab of lock tite on them. Fit new spindles if they don't come out easily or emery and grease the old ones. New Brake shoes? and emery and grease the actuators. In your "carry on luggage" tubes, shorty tire levers, a pump or Co2 bottles, tape, most used spanners for your machine, screwdriver with cork. Tin of goodies containing split links, split pins, spare nuts and bolts for (fenders,stays etc) STRONG cable ties to bodge the unexpected. Spare plug and P.spanner. A couple of clean rags one for your hands and one to layout the bits you are repairing ...... a lost part in the rocks and heather is hard to find! Whatever you can prevent now will save you hours on the moors! That's what I did for my 8 rides and more importantly 8 finishes Tony

It would appear that more people have seen Unidentified "things" than is commonly known, and reading through the thread they all have a similarity of stationary-phenominal speed, the fact that they do not show on radar does not come as a surprize considering "our" current developments in stealth technology and our limited knowledge of space travel. Giving the thread a little trials flavour does that "thing" actually exist in the Loch? or is it a "spoof" put about by the Scottish Tourism Board to support the non-existant national sport? and create massive over subscription to the SSDT? Perhaps the learned member for Inverness can gives us an insight on "the other Unidentified 'king Object" and why we are sacrificing precious Tiger Cubs to the loch so that others may get in?

Big John & Others, At this risk of having to eat you or drink you into submission....... yes I did see one many years ago. We were on detachment in Cyprus with the Phantoms from RAF Coningsby and it was about 1.30 in the morning and we were sitting outside our accommodation block drinking yet more duty free libations. There were 5 of us I believe, and we were sitting facing East when a single light appeared in the east (No it wasn't Christmas Eve) and was tracking Westbound at very high speed. We all watched it and remarked that it was probably Concorde coming out of Bahrain and en-route to London as it was traveling so fast. It then just STOPPED!..... We all looked and sure enough this "thing" appeared to be stationary, and after all the "did you see that?" type comments the "thing" then shot off at incredible speed in a Southerly direction until it disappeared over the horizon. Had it just been me then I would probably put it down to the usual self inflicted detachment demise, but on this occasion there were 5 of us and we had all watched it. The following day we asked to see the area air defence radar film from RAF Troodos but there was not a blip on it! Warp 6 Mr Zulu..... make it so! Captain/Sqn Ldr 283 Tony Down

I would first look at the carb and make sure all the jets are blown through, then check the fuel level cut off and make sure it is not sticking and causing minor fuel starvation. If all is good fuel wise then it must be in the ignition system and will be cheap to rectify. Plug NGK BE9ES or a BE7ES will do, set to 22 thou. Points, some of the new OEM ones come with a grayish teflon like covering on the faces and this MUST be filed off before use, set the gap at 15 thou. If you have the flywheel off then you may as well fit a new condenser. Now check the wiring and see if the loom is HARD anywhere. If it is hard then the ign (black wire) outer covering could be melting and then shorting. Check the kill switch wiring and disconnect up by the coil while you are testing. Finally check the coil and see if there are any signs of the lead having been touching the exhaust. good luck Tony

For the Mikuni use a 290 Main and either a 30 or 35 pilot. Tony283

Yes, CAT should have an event at Table Mesa off I17 either 6 or 13 Jan AHRMA at AZ Cycle Park 10 Feb CAT either 17 or 24 Feb at Oak Flats CAT March Kingman CAT April Alto Pit Prescott That's all I know so far Tony

The only Sidi Trials boot available in the US is the Discovery and is available from; www.motonation.com or their local outlets, I use the Sidi Zero which I had sent from the UK, great trials boot but not fully waterproof tony

Spare tube or tubes and flat repair outfit and the Pump! A few bandaids and a large helping of encouragement. He will be nervous, he will be trying to impress you. Unless he is a budding world champ trials is experience and a learning curve. Don't try and clean everything, but do try and get through everything the differences between the 3's and 5's very quickly mount up. Relive the trial on the way home if he is in the mood ....... and a ton of praise for effort! Have fun, a lot of it. Tony

Have to agree with Sam b. The new OEM points come with what looks like a teflon coating on the faces and no spark will jump through that so emery or lightly file the faces until bright metal comes through. While you are in there, yes change the condenser..... leave nothing to chance and clean up the inside of the flywheel as little bits of metal can stick to the magnets between the gaps (bits of your old key). A clean carb is essential so do as sam says... Stick to the simple things.. Wont start..... usually blocked choke Won't run without choke......normally plugged pilot jet poor response off idle...... airscrew or incorrect pilot jet fuel everywhere......... inlet valve may have a calcium like deposit..... light emery it off Other simple things to inspect are the plug wire.... has it touched the exhaust and melted a bit? Condition of plug cap both inside and out ? Carry on taking the tablets! Tony

Does sound as though this motor is in a bit of a mess! The 320 motor that I have does not have a slotted back plate as the "donor" engine was a 74 TY250A. My advice would be to obtain a standard unslotted back plate and fit that or compare where the standard holes are relative to your slotted version. Mark it as a reference. If this bike is only started once every 2 years go back to all the basics. Clean fresh fuel at around 40:1 clean all jets in the carb and note what sizes the main and pilot jet are. I'm using a new Mikuni with a 290 main, 35 pilot and mid setting on the needle. Remember the point gap should not exceed 15 thou. Set a long reach plug at 22 thou and it should run. Good luck! Tony

Dave, Yep, it's 60' long with the trailer!.... but the idea is appealing what are the dates? Tony

The normal course of action would be as Sirsherco suggested. 1.over on the bars pump out water through plughole using kickstart. 2. try and start 3. will usually run and die as water flicks of sidewalls into plug gap 4.blow out,keep trying until it runs and dries out. However, now that you have left it and taken engine out... Tip out water if any left. Blow out carb jets and reed block. Remove flywheel and clean inside and coil faces and points. May as well check piston, rings and bore at this stage Rebuild and go! Most unlikely to damage rod or anything else If it sucked in mud you may score the piston and barrel. Been there many times in Scotland! Tony