Whilst riding some obstacles like a step I get the feeling the bike is flooding then immmidiately feels like starvation and engine pinks. Can it be both within a second or two. I was sure float was set ok and this is only time it does it and its costing me marks. Any help appreciated. Keihin carb by the way
apart from the usual advice of "bin em" I'm trying to sort out my rear brake.The two pots on the rear move out to meet the disc but on release one returns more than it should. The next time you apply the brake there is more travel than you want. So far I have
bled the system,
replaced the offending pot (had some spare ones)
Checked travel of master cyl piston
checked disc for warping
It's still doing it so i'm thinking maybe there is some blockage in an oil hole in the master cyl.
When you have the centre spacer out you can also cut or grind a small V into one end. This then allows you to get a drift onto the inner race in next time and drive out old bearing. I also use rawlbolt method but usually for removing the stubborn out spacers without damaging them. All good tips, keep em coming.
My gas gas runs a 12 front 41 rear. Is that standard because with a new chain the adjusters are two thirds used up befofre the chain has been used.I've tried an 11 front but this means taking a link and a half out. Surely original gearing would make use of the adjusters fully. Help appreciated
I must admit this is something that frustrates me. It's the same riders you don't see early in the trial. I'd like to see it in bold letters on the entrance form. ie I UNDERSTAND THE CONCEPT OF QUEING AT SECTIONS AND WILL WAIT MY TURN. or the last bike in the que is passed a tazer from previous rider !!!!
I use a brink detachable towbar. I add to this an adapter for a motorbike rack from Pendle engineering. Loads on the ball are still less than a twisting van beleive me. never had a problem
I have formulas on my gasser and they were variable at the beginning but great now. One problem I had was that one of the ceramic pistons was chipped ( they are v brittle) from previous owner squeezing it back in. The two pots on the other side were in the wrong way round with the cavity facing the oil. I stripped them without undoing the access caps. It can be done gently and using old pads to protect the faces of the pistons. Air is also a bugger so this need to be got rid of. Watch v closely in the master cyl for pinpricks of air when beeding, and ensure the hose is always on the rise and not higher than m cyl at any point.
Could be contaminated with brake fluid or wd40 etc. try get them really hot then get them into a stream or use a fairy liquid bottle to quench them quickly. This can work. Or take pads out and clean them with brake cleaner. failing that try new pads. Doubt its the disc but prove me wrong.
Go for it but ............I'm not talking square and inline. If the top hats touch the lip on the centre tube then that is the final width of the setup. Remove that lip and there is a risk of side loading the bearings. Cheap anyway so you get to choose
I just file a V in one end of the spacer tube just enough to be able to drift through the spacer to the opposite bearing. I think having the lip/spacer arrangement stops you side loading the bearings when tightening the axle up.
I hope you used the old pads whilst bleeding the system. Using my old pads and the water trick also lasted me a few mins then oils come to surface again. new pads and bed in. More serious is a warped disc pushing the pads apart as disc passes through on each revolution.
Update Since lowering the needle I have had two outings and checked the plug once. It seems to have made a big difference and plug colour is nearer what it should be. Pretty happy with it now.. if I do any more fiddling I will post updates. Thanks all
I did one y3 ears ago and this method worked but see what others say before rushing in.
Remove outer collar and the race. Drill a smalll hole through the inner race to the shaft. Carefully grind a line through the race cutting through the hole. Do not cut into the shaft. If you do this carefully as you approach the full depth a hairline crack will develop.. Removal is then easy. Replacement is even more fun. Shaft in freezer overnight and bearing warm. This will help you get the two to marry up correctly but you have to be quick as well. Good luck in your chosen method !!!!
Some funny guys out there. Whats a big hen bearing by the way? So I've found a very helpful engineering company south of Leeds that made me two bushes in stainless steel the same afternoon for a tenner - brill service. So I now ride without looking like I have ricketts !!!! Thanks All
Getting puzzled with my gasser. I run fuel at 85 to 1 50 pilot jet in a Keihin.Air screww set as it should be. Using the BP5ES plug it always fouls at least once an outing. Is it safe to go to a BP4ES if there is such a thing. I'm in a group of five riders and a very smoky sherco does not soot up ever.Any ideas
Need some sound engineering advice. Just got some second hand raptors in good nick. Holes are not ovalled but are of a different size to gassers. So do I get some very thin bushes made,or drill the new pegs to fit gasser bushes or drill frame and fit fatter bolts and forget bushes. i dont want to do the wrong thing as no going back. Have temporarily rolled up some tin to make bushes but they wont last long.Has anyone else had this problem
Flood Or Starve
in Gas Gas
Posted
Whilst riding some obstacles like a step I get the feeling the bike is flooding then immmidiately feels like starvation and engine pinks. Can it be both within a second or two. I was sure float was set ok and this is only time it does it and its costing me marks. Any help appreciated. Keihin carb by the way