Yes it was midweek. My family were in ,heard a noise but saw nothing. The scum must have been in the garage for 10-15 mins cutting through the ground anchor cable !!!!
I power wash mine and dry over a few days on a brew heat tray then spray with wd40 a couple of times, they end up as soft as a babies kiss. Waterproof boots - its an anathama, get some waterproof socks tis much better,
If its the same as rev3 then it has two opposing threads to bring everything together. If you start one before the other (tank or tap) you end up with a gap and a leak. try again and with ptfe as well.
Golen rule with all these things is cheapest first, well in my book. A cracked plug can cause these symptoms as it happend to me once. So change this first - miracles can happen.
Yep on throttle shut off can you hear/feel the slide hitting the bottom stop, if not thats your problem. Also try this test on each full lock. If you get in a revin situation again one way to stop it is lay the bike down and then turn off fuel tap. Should stop anyway but the tap will help. I've seen folk in trials hanging onto an upright bike clutch in brakes on etc and its not pretty.Flywheel sounds different problem. And if your really anal test bike with fuel in carb but tap in off position.
My problem is that the mounting point is raised out of the main casing so there is very little metal surrounding it. The stator currently holds with two fixings but I would like the third to work as well. I like the idea of the imperial oversize and may give that a go first.
I have a stripped thread that holds the stator to crankcase. There does not seem to be enough meteal to tap out and fit a bigger bolt so I was thinking of filling it and re drilling but with what Can anyone recommend a product?
About three years ago changed over to wd40. I power wash the chain, dewater with wd40. Midweek might spray it again to give it chance to dry before the next outing. I rate it above all other time consuming methods.
Doing my first maintenance on a 2010 evo and I want to clean the carb out. I have removed the two bowl retaining screws but the bowl does not seem to want to slide down and off - advice please, I don't want to force it or bend float tabs.
Carb must be held upside down then go gentle from there as there is a brass flood tube to negotiate.
I cleaned the front pipe by heating one end with a blow torch to get the carbon burning then kept it going by blowing air through it with a hairdryer. When you get it right it is amazing to see a red glow travel the full length of the pipe kicking out black smoke at the other end as it creeps along the pipe. Mine was spotless after this.I wouldn't do this onthe mid section as it could burn away any mesh etc
wheel off pads out. force pots back into caliper and lock in place with a couple of spanners wedged in or a couple of G clamps.
This reduces the hiding area for air. Open up the top up tank and slacken off bleed nipple but cover end with light pressure with a finger. Three hands needed but use pedal or a rod to work the m/cyl.As you work it two things will eventually happen oil and air will squirt from the nipple and the level will go down. Keep topping it up. Youll know when all is air free as the squirt becomes stronger. Nip up the nipple, pads back in wheel on and continue the pumping until pots and pads take up the play simplesss!!Let us know how you get on
Just talking about the front pipe here. Just had a great result using a blowtorch. Starting at the back of the front pipe heated it up until oil goo started to burn eventually started to glow red then I used a garden pump up sprayer to blow air through. To my amazement the carbon started to glow like a barbeque. Slowly a red ring of heat travelled all the way along the pipe cleaning it out totally. Bit of blueing to the pipe but looks good and hopefully will sound good. By the way this was an Akropovic pipe as well. Currently soaking mid box in fuel then will flush with degreaser, back together for the weekend I hope.
Easiest first -Check no oil leak from clutch gaskets both circular rubber one and the funny shaped one further back. If oil can get out water can get in. If you've not ridden in water then this may not be the problem.
Next - check coolant loss. This can dissapear through the water pump seal into the oil. Still fairly easy to fix by changing oil seal BUT the casings are known to corrode in this area so could be more expensive. Plenty of other threads on this just search the forum.Good luck
Feel its soon time to change the bearing/rose joint at the bottom of the rear shock on my rev 3. Does anyone have any tips for removing the parts including the "top hats" without damaging the alloy shock body? There isnt much face around the area to bed the shocker down on say a piece of wood before hitting it with a sledge hammer!!!!!
Sticker Protection?
in General Trials Talk
Posted
yep I do it and so do others, helps keep it smart and they are 20 to 30 quid to replace