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jimg

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Everything posted by jimg

  1. I recently acquired a Pluma/Plonker that came from a high elevation. I live at about 1,000 ft. elevation above sea level and the bike runs too lean. The bike has a 24mm IRZ carb and I want to keep this carb on the bike. I know finding IRZ jets isn't very easy and I want to limit the number of jets I purchase. Does anyone know what jet sizes and needle clip position this carb came with or should have for a lower elevation? Currently, the carb has a 45 pilot and a 101 main jet. I could guess and get a 50 pilot and a 110 main, but like I said, would be nice to know more specifically without all the trial and error.
  2. I made the below post a couple weeks ago and didn't get any replies. So, perhaps someone could chime-in on this follow-on question I have. A friend of mine rode Dalesman trials bikes (with PUCH motor) back in the early 1970s. He told me all three of his bikes he had (with the PUCH) all "lost" first gear and that it is nearly impossible/very difficult to fix; I assume what's happening is that the first gear teeth break off the spline. He tells me this is a very common problem with the PUCH 125cc motors in the trials bikes. Besides not riding the bike, does anyone have a suggestion that could reduce the chances from this happening? I was thinking of preserving the 125cc PUCH motor and placing a 175cc PUCH motor in the bike. Thanks. I recently purchased a Dalesman with Puch motor; I believe the Trials model. I've searched the internet intently to find some basic information about the Dalesman and motor, but not finding what I need. I'm looking for basic service information (or website references) such as oil type and quantity, ignition setting/servicing, fork oil amount, OEM rear shock length, etc. and where to get Puch engine parts (if needed). Although I will keep as original as possible, it would be nice to know what, if any, after market items can be installed on the bike, such as carburator upgrade, ignition replacement parts, etc. Forks are 35mm, but has no lower fixing points for a lower mudguard. Thanks in advance for any replys.
  3. I do have another tank and willing to sell. send me a private message or let me know gow to contact you and we can discuss.
  4. I ran across an old OSSA here in the USA and I need help identifying exactly what it is...I just can't figure it out. The owner says it's been sitting in storage for 30 years and was told the bike is all original. The handle bars mount to the top fork yoke with U-bolts. The Frame number is B251002 and the engine number is M250154. I'm leaning towards it being a 1967 Pioneer based on the engine number and the large front hub, the rest of the bike looks like a Pluma/Plonker. Any help is appreciated. I'll try to post pictures...I don't have any right now.
  5. jimg

    OSSA MAR 4 speed?

    Thanks to all who replied. I have resolved my questions and avoided a purchase mistake...Thanks!
  6. jimg

    OSSA MAR 4 speed?

    I am seeking a 4 speed bike for a specific class "old school class" I wish to ride in the future...that's why I'm so concerned. If this OSSA were a production 4 speed, I believe it would be the best (non-modified) 4 speed out there (pre 1973).
  7. jimg

    OSSA MAR 4 speed?

    Thanks...so it appears, that if the bike is a four speed, as the seller claims (a 1971, MK1 with 4 speed trans), the motor was from a previous OSSA model or a previous owner took out a gear...but that would seem highly unlikely. I just want to make sure this bike isn't a one or two off / limited production run for the USA market. Here are a couple pictures. 2018-09-12_12-24-36.pdf 2018-09-12_12-34-45.pdf Pictures are a bit fuzzy because I had to copy image from my photo editor.
  8. jimg

    OSSA MAR 4 speed?

    Hello, I would like to know if there were OSSA MARs (MK1) with a four (4) speed transmission? I live in the USA, so I don't know if some 4 speeds were ever imported. What engine number sequence would I be looing for (M-344 XXX)? You don't have to tell me the best way to find out is to ride the bike....Lol...I would, but the bike is 2,000 miles away. The seller claims it is a 4 speed, but I have my doubts/want to confirm. I thought all MARs were 5 speeds. I appreciate any information.
  9. Thank you Stuart. I thought it was an earlier model tank, but what you said makes sense. Thanks.
  10. I'm trying to identify / gather information on this early model Bultaco aluminum slimline tank/seat. This tank is aluminum with an aluminum cap that hinges on one side. The tank has been repainted. Who made this tank? What would be the approximate year these were made and for what model Bultaco bikes (M10, M27, M49 ?) and approximate value. Thanks
  11. Very good eyes! I put the alloy side panel over the inlet tube thinking it looked better, but have since change it and routed it through. Its not a show bike, but I'm proud of the restore I did. since I have the attention a couple that know the M27, I have a few extra parts that I'd like your help on putting a value to for when I decide to sell. see picture and if you would, tell me what the parts are worth...at a fair price. I also have a second petro tank that was restored along with the one on the bike...same condition. The cylinder is in excellent shape, but I haven't measure it yet to see if it has been rebored. Thanks.
  12. Thanks for the information. I believe my question on the rear brake pivot location has been answered. I do have the flat plate footrests, IRZ carb & manifold and some other OEM parts that I've kept off. so it makes sense that someone did a modification. Thanks for confirming.
  13. May be a silly question, but from all the pictures I've seen of a Model 27, the rear brake arm pivot point is fastened behind the foot rest. On my M27, the rear brake pivot point is fastened on the inside of the frame, opposite side of the footrest. My frame does not have, nor ever looks like it had the small frame arm where the brake arm pivot should attach. Perhaps over the years, someone made this modification, but has anyone ever seen or heard of this type of rear brake pivot point on a M27? I'm wondering if there were a small batch made like this? My description may not be understood, so I have attached a picture. My frame and engine numbers match, but the frame number has a "J" stamped into it that I don't know what that designates; if anyone knows. Thanks.
  14. Thanks feetupfun....also very good to know to align it so the rim is centerline on the frame...and of course the sprockets align. With the tips I've received, I should be able to get it laced and aligned all back up correctly.
  15. Thanks cuzzy! This will help a bunch! Very good to know that the rim is not centered between the swingarm. If you (could) look down over the rear tire/rim does it look like the rim is centered over the hub? Or, does the rim sit off to the right from the center-line of the hub. I'm going to guess the rim also is off-set to the right side of the hub (speedo side). Putting this back together has stalled me well over two months and I appreciate your help. Thanks.
  16. I am replacing the spokes on my Bultaco M27. Unfortunately, I went about it wrong and separated the hub (for powdercoating), spokes & rim well over a year ago and I can't remember if the rim is centered over the conical hub or if it has an off-set to one side. For reference, I believe the M27 shares the same hub, spokes, and rim as the M10 and M49. My owners manual does not specify much about the hub or spokes. Currently, I do have it laced up, with loose spokes and the rim is naturally sitting about 1" (2.54 cm) off-set over the hub to the right. I need to know if I am to center the rim over the hub when tightening up the spokes. I do believe it needs to be centered, but I would like confirmation before I pull the hub over. Thanks.
  17. jimg

    Stolen TLR250

    It has been amazing how much support the trials community has supported this effort...what a great bunch of friends! Michael_t exactly right...the buyer (John) of my bike didn't know it was stolen and through a stoke of luck, a good friend of mine recognized it as my stolen bike. There wasn't a bit of hesitation from John to return the bike to me. Zero help from the police over the last 3 months. Also, your right, bike is worth a fair amount more than the 1,500...I just set a realistic amount to try to collect for John for his loss.
  18. I'd like to share what I've done to six of my older bike when there is too much piston to barrel clearance and there is "slop". As long as the piston and barrel are not over @20 thousandths (diameter or total) out of specification, I have my pistons coated with an abradable power coating (APC), hone the cylinder, and put new rings in it; for a couple, I had to get a 1 over sized rings and file down ends to get a perfect fit/end gap. I cannot say how good this stuff works, it's quite amazing and very cost effective; usually under $50 (USD) plus cost of rings. In fears of having this post deleted, I won't get into all the technical information about this product, so please don't think this is an advertisement for this product, as I have only been a customer of the company who does this. The company that does this is called Line2line Coatings and located in the USA. They have a great deal of technical information available on their website and on Youtube. I cannot stress how great this product works. I had a (nearly impossible to find) VERY scuffed BetaTR34 piston (had to beat it out) that most would NEVER consider putting back in the bike coated with APC. I also had a ring made for it and honestly, the bike now sounds better than new and outstanding compression. I've coated original Yamaha TY's, Bultacos, Tiger Cub, Suzuki TM, and the BetaTR34 pistons, with outstanding results in all of them. Regards.
  19. jimg

    Stolen TLR250

    Hello all fellow trials community. I had a 1985 Honda TLR250 stolen on 8/13/17 in the Columbus, Ohio area. The bike was restored with many upgrades and it looked "show-room" new. I cannot express how distraught I am. There are very, very few of these bikes and my hopes are it will eventually "show" up for sale and/or be seen...even if it is years down the road. So, please tell your friends and plant a seed in your memory and if you ever see a TLR250 (not a Reflex), PLEASE take the time to take down information that may assist me in recovering it. gawnej@att.net
  20. Great information jc2. No thesis...My need to identify design changes from the 115/116 Alpina and later models are because I'm going to race an Alpina big bore in vintage harescrambles. The rules to qualify as a vintage bike is the bike need to be a 1974 or older bike. But, "Like Design" bikes are allowed into the vintage class if one can provide evidence that a post 1974 manufactured bike is "Like Designed" as related to that specific bike model. A Like Design bike is a bike where the suspension travel, suspension mounting points, engine mounting points, frame material, and frame and swing arm are of "Like Design" and there is no performance advantage. "Problem" with Bultaco, and I assume other bike manufacturers of this era, is the bikes model number may extend through several years and may also have design changes within the same model number. So, why don't I just get an Alpina that is 1974 or older?....well....They are hard to find here in the States and I'm trying to open up my options of available bikes. So, lets say I find a model 188, good shape, good price, etc., I would need to provide "evidence" that the model 188 is a "Like Design" bike to a model 138 (which according to several sources, the model 137/138 was an available bike in 1974 (September). From all the great reply's on this topic, is looking like any model after the 137/138 would not qualify :-(
  21. Thanks again for all the bits of information. Seems that I'd need to line the different models up next to each other to determine frame differences, shock mount position, fork yokes, etc. But, I'm leading to a conclusion that from a model 137/138 to the 212/213 models, there was little structural/geometry design change. Perhaps, I should chase down frame changes that the Sherpa went through during this period would provide better results.
  22. Thanks to all for your reply's. I've made good progress at finding what I need thanks to your help, except I can't find any specifications (like listed on the motoguapa website) for the Alpina models 165/166. Again, I'm looking for information regarding any design changes from the previous Alpina model 137/138. Items like frame and swingarm changes, suspension mounting point changes, engine mounting point changes, over length, wheelbase length, footpeg height, etc. Unfortunately, I need to find the "original" specifications on this bike, such as a sales brochure or specification sheet on the bike. Any copy of such document or source on the internet would greatly be appreciated.
  23. Good point... So, I'm looking for any design changes for the Alpina as they went through their model number changes (assuming some sort of design changes occurred for each new model number) for the following: Model 116 to model 138 (~1974) Model 138 to model 166 (1974 - 1976) Model 166 to model 188 (1976 - 1977) As you mentioned, parts book would be better, but even harder to find.
  24. I need to know any (if any) basic design changes of the Bultaco 350 Alpina years 1974 to 1975, 1975 to 1976 and 1976 to 1977. I do know in 1975, the brake and shifter was moved to the right and left, respectively. Primarily, I need to know design changes regarding these items: Suspension (travel length) on front and rear, rear suspension mounting points, frame changes (including any engine mounting point changes) and swingarm changes. I may need to buy Haynes manuals for each year to get detailed specifics (part numbers), but any help from you will greatly be appreciated. Thanks.
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