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jimg

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Everything posted by jimg
 
 
  1. I need to know any (if any) basic design changes of the Bultaco 350 Alpina years 1974 to 1975, 1975 to 1976 and 1976 to 1977. I do know in 1975, the brake and shifter was moved to the right and left, respectively. Primarily, I need to know design changes regarding these items: Suspension (travel length) on front and rear, rear suspension mounting points, frame changes (including any engine mounting point changes) and swingarm changes. I may need to buy Haynes manuals for each year to get detailed specifics (part numbers), but any help from you will greatly be appreciated. Thanks.
  2. The restore of my Seeley is dragging, but I'm making progress. The information provided in this post has really help. 4Stroke...I have also fitted a TLR200/250 carburetor (Keihin PW22) on my Seeley and it is running good, except the bike back-fires when letting of from mid to high revs. I believe this is due to unburned gas, so I will try to use smaller jets and see if that helps. Currently, I have a 38 pilot and 98 main. Do you recall the jet sizes your running? Seeley owners...I need an exhaust! The picture is of the exhaust that came with the bike. There is no mid-muffler and the "silencer" is a nicely hand-made piece, but the bike is much too loud. I don't believe it's getting much, if any, back-pressure. I have the resources to fabricate and fit different sized exhaust pieces together, but I would really appreciate any help from Seeley owners who have place an aftermarket exhaust on their bike. The handful of aftermarket exhausts that were similar to OEM and available 10 years ago are not available anymore (to my findings). I have read that someone fitted a WES silencer to a Seeley, but I need more information and details before I make any investments. Any help would be much appreciated and picture are always good. Thank you.
  3. Similar to trialswarrior advise...peel back the lifted decal a little further, wipe underside of decal and fender clean with alcohol, heat decal with hair dryer enough to make existing adhesive tacky, spray some 3M spray adhesive to your fingertip (wear latex or nitrile gloves), dab a thin layer of adhesive to both decal and fender, wait 10 seconds or so, press down and hold 10 more seconds. After heating the decal, don't wait to apply the adhesive....you want the decal to be pretty warm, but not hot or it wont adhere. If it's cold outside, apply warm heat to fender as well. Clean any excess adhesive off with goof-off. May take a few tries to perfect it, but ends up holding better than factory application.
  4. jeniejlg...thank you for posting the pictures. I really do appreciate all the replies. I have looked for the manifold insulator on the web, but haven't found any. Would you happen to know where I could purchase one of these manifolds? I have found and purchased the appropriate CR125 front backing plate and a carb to airbox boot on ebay. I have yet to identify a carburetor...but I'm narrowing down my selection.
  5. Thank you for the information and picture! This Helps! Yes, it would be interesting to know how many of these Seeley's are still out and about. The previous owner of my Seeley imported it to the USA about 15 years ago and had been sitting in his garage ever since. The bike is actually in good shape, it just needs some TLC and a few parts. My front fender/mudguard looks original and it's a white colored Preston Petty mudguard. It will likely take me a few months to complete, as my time is limited and I'm slow and don't like to rush. I do have another question...is there to be a heat block/spacer where the carb fastens to the head? The long bolts indicate to me there should be a heat block. I have looked on-line at pictures of Seeleys, but it's difficult to clearly see that part of the bike.
  6. I have an early production Seeley 200 (frame # 1011) and the previous owner has misplaced a couple parts that I don't foresee him finding, so I need to find replacements. I have exhausted my search efforts on the web, so I hope I find better luck with this post. I need a front backing plate and front axle. I was told a MT125 Elsinore backing plate (1973-1976) would fit, but it does not. I assume I could fit an entirely different ft. rim with larger brakes, but I would like to keep as original as possible. Also, no carburetor and air boot on the bike...my only option may be to fit a similar carburetor, which may be of best option or interest anyway. I assume the front tire assembly/backing plate were common on other bikes of this era, but I rather not keep guessing and making incorrect and costly ebay purchases. For the carburetor, I know there are several options, but any insight as to which carb (make and model/part number) anyone has had success with (along with jet sizes) would be greatly appreciated.
  7. Nice event summary Biff...still a lot of riding remaining for the year if your willing to do a little traveling. Also, I'm expecting the Gate Trials at Keith's to soon be posted on the MOTA site. Perhaps your fully aware, but the TI vintage cup finals in KY (Oct. 31/Nov.1) requires the riders to have two "qualifier events" ridden to participate in this event. I have spoke with members of the TI organization and they have agreed to count the Metamora (Great Lakes) Vintage Cup as a qualifier. There's still a qualifier event available Oct. 18th... Anyway, enjoy your stay in Europe!
  8. jimg

    Tr34 Piston & Rings

    Not good news...don't want to see the bike become a parts bike as the rest of it is in good condition. Can anybody else offer some leads where a piston & ring can be found? Thanks.
  9. jimg

    Tr34 Piston & Rings

    I am looking for a piston and ring for a 1988 TR34 (260cc). The previous owner seized it or "locked it up" and I had a very difficult time removing the piston. I have exhausted my internet search efforts and have no leads or resources. If anyone knows where these parts can be found, please reply. Thank you.
  10. The 1977 world round at Port Huron, MI...wow...I remember it...I still have the event T-shirt. It is good to remind ourselves of the rich history our club (MOTA) has played in promoting trials by also having the first two North American Nationals in 1972 and 1973. Anyway, this weekend (July 18/19th) is our vintage cup in lovely Metamora, MI. I believe we have sparked a lot of interest from riders in our area and gives us a reason to pull that twinshock out from under the covers. Our club has been working hard at making this a quality event and we have 16 sections marked for the two day event. We are anticipating between 30 and 40 riders. Camping is available and we will have a simple potluck dinner Saturday evening. Also, we have very nice top finisher awards for each day and even nicer awards for the 2-day overall top three finishers. Our club is definitely looking forward to hosting the event for all to enjoy.
  11. I cannot comment on parts availability in your region, but parts for the TY should be much easier to be found. I assume you’re speaking of twin shock TY's? If so, in my opinion, the twin shock TY's are known to be very reliable and easy to work on....the TY's just always seem to run. With a few easy to do modifications, the TY's are very easy to ride and very competitive with other twin shockers that are many years "newer". I just past up a purchase of a clean 1984 SWM jumbo at a very low price because my modified 1977 TY250D rides much nicer...but, this is just of my opinion and my particular bike. Either bike in good running/working condition will provide you enjoyment, but I'm a TY fan.
  12. Replying to the starting post: Yes. When looking at the 14/15 schedule, I counted myself out because if I can't ride the minimum events (5 of 8) to count towards years end championship, then I'd rather save the money and ride local events. The East/West championship concept makes sense to me if keeping the Overall National Championship intact. I believe the East/West series would draw in more "local" riders to those events; resulting in a greater year end rider turnout for NATC..which is the goal. In my opinion, those who are known to "hit" all the Nationals will likely continue to "hit" all the Nationals because they still want the National ranking. I do agree with sirhc's post, which is to combine some/most of the classes; this would save costs on awards and streamline other processes associated with managing all the classes. .
  13. Always start with the easy stuff first...before you replace the decompression spring, I highly recommend start with checking the cam chain tension adjuster as I mentioned in my above post. Check for any wear on the teeth and I'd put a new sping in or add an extinsion to it as I described above. When you put the adjuster unit back in, use a small screwdriver and press on the adjuster until it stops clicking. Start the bike...If that's not it, then change out the decompression spring. Set the bike at TDC per the service manual...it's very easy and well worth the extra 10 minutes (you can avoid draining the engine oil if you set the bike at a 45 deg angle when setting TDC). I ended up dropping the front of the engine down by removing the front skid plate bolts (the rad will come with it without having to remove the hoses). I couldn't get the top head piece off without doing so. You'll need to remove the cam chain tensioner again to loosen the cam chain. Then you will be able to replace the spring by tiltling the cam and removing the chain (no water pump removal needed). Make sure the chain doesn't fall...I used a screwdriver to hold it up. Putting that little spring in there is a bit tricky, so make sure you follow the installation instructions per the service manual exactly....an extra wind on the spring won't work. The top head doesn't have a gasket, so use high temp RTV. Tighten all head bolts per instructions....important.
  14. First, check your cam chain tension adjuster. The spring on my bike wasn't applying enough spring compression to the self-adjusting unit, so I ended up finding a similar spring (acutally a little heavier) and soldered about 3 coil lengths to the existing spring. The extra spring compression force made the self adjuster click out a notch creating more force against the cam chain guide. If that doesn't work it is likely the decompression tension spring, which will cause a BAD loud knocking. This happened to my bike as well. It was hard to determine where the noise was coming from when the bike was running, but after taking the engine apart and hours upon hours of diagnosis it was the spring. Low cost fix to do yourself, but will still take several hours to replace the spring.
  15. "Bang"? Like a loud popcorn popping sound? Perhaps several in a row? If so, this is a common sound when shutting down the throttle on the Evo 4t, especially when going down an incline. My only sugenstion is to ensure your jetting is set correct. I had to adjust my pilot and main jet as the bike was too lean and the popcorn sound diminished a fair amount. The air boots on the carb are "hard fitting" and the front boot can shimmy back causing an air leak. So, double check that fitting and don't over-tighten the boot clamp as it will cut through the boot in a short time if too tight.
  16. I don't know how loud the "tapping voice" is you have, but here is my experiance with a tapping noise I had with my 2010 300 4t. The tapping noise was quite severe, so I did not dare ride it. I took the whole top end apart and checked all specs trying to find and fix where the noise was coming from...many, many hours. The tapping noise ended up coming from the decompressor release arm hitting the surrounding housing. For me to fix this I replaced the small, thin guage coil spring that holds the decompressor weight in place (#18 in parts diagram manual). This involves removing the cylinder/valve head and dropping or a good engine tilt to access. Refer to the bikes service manual for this because you have to be careful to insure your timing stays in place and/or is set correctly. Second, actually try this first...Remove your cam chain tensioner and inspect for proper funtion and wear. If all looks good as it did with my bike, I added a .25 - .35 inch (6.35 - 8.9 mm) piece of heavier guage spring to the existing spring to increase the tension on the cam chain guide. Like I said, try the mod to the cam chain tensioner first as this could be the quick fix. These recommendations are from my experience with many hours into tying to figure it out. Bikes been running great ever since (about 1 year).
  17. Thanks for comments. I placed my order late yesterday through my local Beta dealer. I do hope there are two bolts on the air box support/sub frame as this area needed improvement to add rigidity to the silencer. I just wanted some justification (in my head) to purchase a new bike and also be able to fully explain to those (i.e., wife) who ask about the bikes improvements. Knowing the changes/improvements made to a bike, even it they are minor, promote bike sales. Guys like me that are (were) on the fence of purchasing a new bike often need detail information like this. Would be nice if this information was more readily available.
  18. Been searching up and down trying to find what, if any changes were made to the 2012 Evo 300 4t. I have a 2010 300 4t and would like to know what mod's were given to the bike over the past 2 years. All I can gather is only from looking at pictures...besides the new graphics, plastic color, black frame, rear rim, and relocated kill switch, is there anythink else? Any changes to the power delivery/engine performance, suspension, clutch? Or, if you already have upgraded to a new model, tell me the differences you notice. Thanks.
  19. Zach, hope you can give your bike a try a the upcoming Great Lakes event, Sept. 18th in Metamora, MI. Maybe you already have MOTA ties, but if not, all the information for the event is at www.motatrials.com.
  20. jimg

    Phil and Pat?

    The judges keep saying all contestants need to "up there game at this stage of the competition". Fire and hot girls is a real good start...this helps captivate the audience and turns the trials riding "show" into a performance. Splatter a bed of flames, suspend a 4"x6" beam about 10' high and ride across it, do a more simple stunt blind folded. Pause before a dramatic stunt and raise hands to get the audience cheering. And, don't forget to smile.
  21. Will the shirts be available at the upcomming Nationals?
  22. jimg

    EVO 4T 300 2011

    My riding elevation is usually around 1,000 feet or 305 meters. I am very particular when setting up my bikes; most may feel the bike doesn't need any change. My main jet is a 135 and pilot is 22.5. If I recall, needle clip is in 2nd or 3rd position from top. Mixture screw (Jitse) is between 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 out; depending on temperature. Also, at new, my bike was "twitchy"...this also cleared as more time on the bike and a few oil changes. Use premium synthetic engine oil. I also did the Dan Williams clutch modification this past winter and added .380mm spacers/washers to clutch springs. I find stock gearing awesome, but suiting to your riding style is very important.
  23. jimg

    EVO 4T 300 2011

    My 2010 300 4t also seemed to stall more than expected when I first got it. After about 20 hours of engine "break in" the stalls significantly decreased. Additionally, keep the tick-over (idle) up, use a NGK iridium plug, and run fresh gas. I also changed the pilot and main jet, as it was to lean from factory. My bike runs great now and stalling incidents are not unexpected and I'm very pleased.
  24. Way to go Cody! Very impressive and convincing wins! Congratulations!
 
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