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Replying to the starting post: Yes. When looking at the 14/15 schedule, I counted myself out because if I can't ride the minimum events (5 of 8) to count towards years end championship, then I'd rather save the money and ride local events. The East/West championship concept makes sense to me if keeping the Overall National Championship intact. I believe the East/West series would draw in more "local" riders to those events; resulting in a greater year end rider turnout for NATC..which is the goal. In my opinion, those who are known to "hit" all the Nationals will likely continue to "hit" all the Nationals because they still want the National ranking. I do agree with sirhc's post, which is to combine some/most of the classes; this would save costs on awards and streamline other processes associated with managing all the classes. .

Always start with the easy stuff first...before you replace the decompression spring, I highly recommend start with checking the cam chain tension adjuster as I mentioned in my above post. Check for any wear on the teeth and I'd put a new sping in or add an extinsion to it as I described above. When you put the adjuster unit back in, use a small screwdriver and press on the adjuster until it stops clicking. Start the bike...If that's not it, then change out the decompression spring. Set the bike at TDC per the service manual...it's very easy and well worth the extra 10 minutes (you can avoid draining the engine oil if you set the bike at a 45 deg angle when setting TDC). I ended up dropping the front of the engine down by removing the front skid plate bolts (the rad will come with it without having to remove the hoses). I couldn't get the top head piece off without doing so. You'll need to remove the cam chain tensioner again to loosen the cam chain. Then you will be able to replace the spring by tiltling the cam and removing the chain (no water pump removal needed). Make sure the chain doesn't fall...I used a screwdriver to hold it up. Putting that little spring in there is a bit tricky, so make sure you follow the installation instructions per the service manual exactly....an extra wind on the spring won't work. The top head doesn't have a gasket, so use high temp RTV. Tighten all head bolts per instructions....important.

First, check your cam chain tension adjuster. The spring on my bike wasn't applying enough spring compression to the self-adjusting unit, so I ended up finding a similar spring (acutally a little heavier) and soldered about 3 coil lengths to the existing spring. The extra spring compression force made the self adjuster click out a notch creating more force against the cam chain guide. If that doesn't work it is likely the decompression tension spring, which will cause a BAD loud knocking. This happened to my bike as well. It was hard to determine where the noise was coming from when the bike was running, but after taking the engine apart and hours upon hours of diagnosis it was the spring. Low cost fix to do yourself, but will still take several hours to replace the spring.

"Bang"? Like a loud popcorn popping sound? Perhaps several in a row? If so, this is a common sound when shutting down the throttle on the Evo 4t, especially when going down an incline. My only sugenstion is to ensure your jetting is set correct. I had to adjust my pilot and main jet as the bike was too lean and the popcorn sound diminished a fair amount. The air boots on the carb are "hard fitting" and the front boot can shimmy back causing an air leak. So, double check that fitting and don't over-tighten the boot clamp as it will cut through the boot in a short time if too tight.

I don't know how loud the "tapping voice" is you have, but here is my experiance with a tapping noise I had with my 2010 300 4t. The tapping noise was quite severe, so I did not dare ride it. I took the whole top end apart and checked all specs trying to find and fix where the noise was coming from...many, many hours. The tapping noise ended up coming from the decompressor release arm hitting the surrounding housing. For me to fix this I replaced the small, thin guage coil spring that holds the decompressor weight in place (#18 in parts diagram manual). This involves removing the cylinder/valve head and dropping or a good engine tilt to access. Refer to the bikes service manual for this because you have to be careful to insure your timing stays in place and/or is set correctly. Second, actually try this first...Remove your cam chain tensioner and inspect for proper funtion and wear. If all looks good as it did with my bike, I added a .25 - .35 inch (6.35 - 8.9 mm) piece of heavier guage spring to the existing spring to increase the tension on the cam chain guide. Like I said, try the mod to the cam chain tensioner first as this could be the quick fix. These recommendations are from my experience with many hours into tying to figure it out. Bikes been running great ever since (about 1 year).

Thanks for comments. I placed my order late yesterday through my local Beta dealer. I do hope there are two bolts on the air box support/sub frame as this area needed improvement to add rigidity to the silencer. I just wanted some justification (in my head) to purchase a new bike and also be able to fully explain to those (i.e., wife) who ask about the bikes improvements. Knowing the changes/improvements made to a bike, even it they are minor, promote bike sales. Guys like me that are (were) on the fence of purchasing a new bike often need detail information like this. Would be nice if this information was more readily available.

Been searching up and down trying to find what, if any changes were made to the 2012 Evo 300 4t. I have a 2010 300 4t and would like to know what mod's were given to the bike over the past 2 years. All I can gather is only from looking at pictures...besides the new graphics, plastic color, black frame, rear rim, and relocated kill switch, is there anythink else? Any changes to the power delivery/engine performance, suspension, clutch? Or, if you already have upgraded to a new model, tell me the differences you notice. Thanks.

Zach, hope you can give your bike a try a the upcoming Great Lakes event, Sept. 18th in Metamora, MI. Maybe you already have MOTA ties, but if not, all the information for the event is at www.motatrials.com.

The judges keep saying all contestants need to "up there game at this stage of the competition". Fire and hot girls is a real good start...this helps captivate the audience and turns the trials riding "show" into a performance. Splatter a bed of flames, suspend a 4"x6" beam about 10' high and ride across it, do a more simple stunt blind folded. Pause before a dramatic stunt and raise hands to get the audience cheering. And, don't forget to smile.

Will the shirts be available at the upcomming Nationals?

My riding elevation is usually around 1,000 feet or 305 meters. I am very particular when setting up my bikes; most may feel the bike doesn't need any change. My main jet is a 135 and pilot is 22.5. If I recall, needle clip is in 2nd or 3rd position from top. Mixture screw (Jitse) is between 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 out; depending on temperature. Also, at new, my bike was "twitchy"...this also cleared as more time on the bike and a few oil changes. Use premium synthetic engine oil. I also did the Dan Williams clutch modification this past winter and added .380mm spacers/washers to clutch springs. I find stock gearing awesome, but suiting to your riding style is very important.

My 2010 300 4t also seemed to stall more than expected when I first got it. After about 20 hours of engine "break in" the stalls significantly decreased. Additionally, keep the tick-over (idle) up, use a NGK iridium plug, and run fresh gas. I also changed the pilot and main jet, as it was to lean from factory. My bike runs great now and stalling incidents are not unexpected and I'm very pleased.

Way to go Cody! Very impressive and convincing wins! Congratulations!

Thanks! Yes, I have played with the mapping setting switch. Unlike the 290 2-stroke, I can feel the difference (quite notable) on the 300. I prefer the "soft" 1 setting. Don't get me wrong, I love power and quick response and can ride quite aggressive at times. Nice videos! Who would you recommend to me the get the spring & jets?

Thanks for the insight. So, since you have got this beast dialed in, could you give me a simple recommendation for set-up (jet/spring sizes) for my bike in Michigan; I'm at a little over 1,000ft. By what you mentioned, I should put a slightly lighter spring in and go leaner on the jets. As far as my comment for taming it down...The 300 definitely has more snap off the bottom than my 290 2-stroke. Several fellow riders in my area have ridden my bike and come back with the same comment. Maybe I just need to get use to it? I heard that Ray had a put on a different throttle on the 09 4t he rode, which made it come on softer. Thanks

I too have a 2010 Beta 4-stroke, and love it. After getting use to the engine breaking, I only see advantages over the 2-stroke. I only have a couple tanks of gas through it, as I'm not able to ride much this year; it seems to be doing everything easier than my previous 2-strokes. The suspension on these bikes are incredible. I find my bike to come on a tad too strong...I would like for it to come on a little softer....any suggestions? Billy T....why the change in jets? Stock "seems" to be running fine in my bike...but I'm new to 4-strokes. The Jitsie mixture screw adjuster is a must.

For me, I notice a dramatic improvement in the suspension...not that the 09 was lacking, but the new 2010 model is superb. My fellow rider who has a 09 said he would like to get the 2010 just for the suspension improvement.

That is excellent that you have the access to run a 4 mile loop. Keep in mind this will make for a long day. If a rider averages 8 miles per hour on the loop, which should be a fare estimate, is 30 minutes of just riding the loop. Four loops is 2 hours. Typically, walking (picking your line), riding, waiting at sections, and taking breaks usually accounts for 4-5 hours to finish a normal event. I'd guess a 4 mile loop would add an additional 1 to 1.5 hours to the event (5 - 6.5 hr event). As a suggestion, with the two day event and your availability of sections, you could split the course and run a 2 mile loop each day with different sections each day so all can enjoy all you have to offer? I don't have any problem with riding a 6 hour event (easy for me to say, I won't be riding) ... just something to think about.

I've been riding 2 stroke Betas for the last 2 years (2008 REV, 2009 EVO) and have decided to pursue a Beta 300 4- stroke. If you own, have ridden, or know someone who has a 2010 4 stroke, I would be interested to hear your impressions/opinion of the bike. I have not seen any write-up for this bike and I'm looking for a simple, non-technical reply. I had the opportunity to ride a 2009 300 last year and love it. Also, I'm wondering your opinion of any advantages/disadvantages over a 2-stroke...Thanks.

Yes, the MOTA website hasn't been updated yet with next years schedule, but should be fairly soon. So, keep an eye on it. Just wanted to let you know where to look for our schedule.

Check out www.motatrials.com for schedule and happenings.

Kjax, Sounds like fun. Maybe I can get over your place and help layout some sections. I won't be able to ride though. Dr. Perkins will be working on me again Dec. 2nd. You should also post this on motatrials.com.

Thanks to Biff and the Bent Fenders crew for such a great event. Biff, you did a great job at making the event very enjoyable, in fact, I may consider it the most fun MOTA event I've ridden this year. Barring a stall and a tree falling on me and hitting me on the noggin, I had a blast! Section 2 and 6 were a little shady, but overall I think your section layout for the experts was spot on.

Thanks Jim for all your work with the rider poll. I have sent mine in. I know John, so I'll see if I can find his current address and let you know asap.